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THE  COST  OF  FOOD 


A  STUDY  IN  DIETARIES. 


BY 

ELLEN    H.    RICHARDS, 

Instructor  in  Sanitary  Chemistry, 
Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology. 


SECOND    EDITION. 

TOTAL    ISSUE^    FOUR    THOUSAND. 


NEW    YORK : 

JOHN    Wn.EY   &    SONS. 

London:   CHAPMAN   &   HALL,   Limited. 

1913 


/■■\  -V  v.- 


"KS 


Copyright,  190T, 

BY 

ELLEN   H.  RICHARDS. 


THE  SCIENTIFIC  PRESS 

ROBERT   DRUMMOND   AND   COMPANY 

BROOKLYN,    N.    Y. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION 


In  reply  to  the  many  questions  asked,  the  author 
wishes  to  state  here  that  because  the  cost  of  the  accus- 
tomed food  of  the  average  family  has  increased  since 
the  book  was  written,  and  because  the  price  of  board  in 
restaurant  and  boarding-house  has  increased  thirty  per 
cent  or  more,  it  does  not  follow  that  all  food  has  so  risen 
in  value.  From  the  great  variety  and  abundance  of 
food  materials  ofiFered  to-day  the  purchaser  may  choose 
sufficient  and  nourishing  food,  which  need  not  cost  more 
than  the  prices  given  here.  But  it  may  not  be  just  those 
materials  to  which  the  palate  has  been  accustomed. 
Certain  foods  have  gone  out  of  fashion,  corn  meal  is  used 
very  little,  although  in  digestibility  and  palatability  it  out- 
ranks most  of  the  prepared  cereals  sold  for  ten  times  as 
much  per  pound. 

The  morning  cream  is  a  costly  viand,  but  sugar  is  still 
inexpensive.  Butter  may  be  had  at  a  very  little  if  any 
advance.  It  will  not  be  "gilt  edge,"  but  it  will  be  just 
as  wholesome  and  nutritious.     Olive  oil  may  be  found 

260872  ^ 


IV  PREFACE  TO  THE  j  SECOND   ED.ITION 

at  the  Italian  shops  and  many  other  foods  may  be  pur- 
chased of  the  less  known  dealers. 

Therefore  it  is  pretty  certain  that  the  cost  of  nutrition 
has  not  advanced  so  much  as  the  current  opinion  calls 
for.  It  is  true,  however,  that  it  requires  time  and  atten- 
tion and  a  modification  of  one's  tastes  to  secure  this 
nutrition,  and  this  modification  is  the  most  distasteful 
exercise  the  ordinary  person  is  called  upon  to  undergo. 

Perhaps  the  most  instructive  comparison  is  that  of 
the  cost  of  food  at  Valparaiso,  Indiana,  given  on  pages 
128-130,  of  this  volume,  from  data  obtained  by  the 
author  during  a  personal  inspection  in  1892.  It  was 
then  $1.40  a  week  and  room  at  25  cents.  Mr.  George 
Kennan  in  McClure  for  March,  1908,  gives  the  costs 
at  $1.88  and  fifty  cents  for  room.  This  is  in  accord 
with  the  general  trend  of  things.  External  factors, 
table  linen,  service,  decoration,  lights,  furnishings — in 
short,  the  refinements  of  living  have  increased  the  cost 
of  living,  often  doubling  it,  and  just  so  far  as  these  factors 
come  into  play  in  the  serving  of  food  they  increase  the 
cost  of  board,  but  not  necessarily  the  cost  of  the  raw 
material  which  is  used. 

It  is  advisable  to  add  a  certain  amount  of  this  cost 
for  the  sake  of  refined  living,  but  there  is  a  limit  to  which 
the  efiiciency  of  the  individual  is  increased  by  this  addi- 
tion. 

There  is  nothing  in  the  discussion  of  costs  which  the 
author  wishes  to  *'take  back,"  and  certain  conclusions 


PREFACE   TO   THE   SECOND  EDITION  V 

are  only  confirmed  by  seven  years'  experience  and  ob- 
servation. The  study  enjoined  on  page  13  is  still  needed, 
and  the  question  at  the  bottom  of  page  68  is  still  perti- 
nent. Some  recent  books  are  listed  at  the  end  of  the 
Bibliography. 
Boston,  March,  1908. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.     Food    a    Necessity — Knowledge    of    Food-values    a 
Present-day   Necessity— Kind,  Quality,  and  Cgst 

of  Food I 

II.      Food  for  the  Infant 15 

III.  Food  for  the  School-child 29 

IV.  Food  for  the  Active  Youth 37 

V.     Food  for  the  Youth  at  College  and  for  the  Brain- 
worker 45 

VI.     Food  for  the  Traveller  and  Professional  Person 52 

VII.      Food  for  those  ^n  Penal  and  Pauper  Institutions 60 

VIII.     Food  for  the  Person  in  a  Hospital 70 

IX.     Food  for  Middle  Life  and  for  Old  Age 84 

X,     General  Principles  governing  Dietaries go 

XI.     Dietaries  costing  Ten  to  Fifteen  Cents  per  Day  per 

Person 98 

XII.     Twenty-five  Cents  per  Day  per  Person iii 

XIII.  Forty  to  Fifty  Cents  per  Day  per  Person 134 

XIV.  Sixty  Cents  per  Day  per  Person 138 

XV.      The  Dietary  Computer 143 

XVI.     Food  for  Incipient  Tuberculosis '    151 

Glossary  of  Terms  Used. 155 

Bibliography,  Selected 159 

Recent  Books  on  Food  and  Nutrition 163 

Index 165 

vii 


THE  COST  OF   FOOD 


FOOD  A  NECESSITY.     KNOWLEDGE  OF  FOOD- 
VALUES  A  PRESENT-DAY  NECESSITY 

"The  physiological  principle  of  the  preparation  of  food  is 
summed  up  in  the  postulate  that  it  shall  produce  the  highest 
efficiency  in  the  individual  and  the  race." — ^Thudichum. 

The  food-supply  is  the  controlling  factor  in  all  life, 
vegetable,  animal,  or  human.  In  proportion  as  suit- 
able food  is  abundant,  so  thrives  the  living  thing  be- 
cause of  the  ease  with  which  it  satisfies  its  appetite. 
In  the  case  of  human  food  this  ease  is  expressed  in 
terms  of  money.  Abundance  means  comparatively 
little  cost  of  any  article,  so  that  it  may  be  easily  ob- 
tained by  numbers  of  people.  Therefore  in  presence 
of  abundant  food-supply  prosperous  communities  are 
found.  The  plant  must  grow  at  the  spot  indicated 
by  the  presence  of  its  food.  The  animal  may  range 
forest  and  plain  in  search  of  it.  Early  man  did  the 
same,  and  peoples  grew  strong  where  space  for  pas- 


2  Tlilv.GQST    OF    FOOD 

turage  or  fertility  of  soil  gave  opportunity  for  herds 
and  crops. 

Nineteenth-century  man,  by  his  development  of 
means  of  quick  transportation  of  foodstuffs  from 
all  quarters  of  the  globe  to  any  desired  spot,  has 
changed  the  problem  so  entirely  that  the  small  cost 
of  any  food  material  no  longer  depends  upon  its 
production  in  situ  by  the  community  which  is  to  con- 
sume it,  but  only  upon  its  transportable  character. 

Wheat  flour  is  cheap  simply  because  it  can  be  pre- 
pared in  quantity  on  the  spot  where  it  is  grown,  and 
kept  in  storage  or  carried  around  the  world  without 
appreciable  deterioration.  Fresh  fruits  are  dear  be- 
cause they  will  not  endure  this  handling  and  storage. 
They  must  be  desiccated  or  preserved.  This  reason 
for  cost  is  so  often  overlooked  that  it  is  worth  while 
to  emphasize  it  at  the  outset.  The  errors  in  buying 
food-supplies  have  their  root  in  the  mistaken  notion 
that  whatever  is  obtained  at  small  relative  expense 
is  common  and  unclean;  that  the  use  of  such  food 
is  a  mark  of  plebeian  tastes  and  leads  to  very  low 
mental  development.  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  cost 
of  food  is  no  measure  of  its  nutritive  value. 
''  Cheap  "  food  is  that  which  has  required  little  cap- 
ital or  labor  to  produce. 

Formerly  each  race  adapted  itself  to  its  environ- 
ment  and  trained  its  digestion  in  accordance  with 
the  available  diet.     In  great  measure  the  races  of 


FOOD    A    NECESSITY  3 

earlier  ages  were  modified  by  the  possibilities  of  food 
in  the  lands  to  which  they  migrated.  The  influence 
of  food  upon  character  has  yet  to  be  adequately 
studied  and  discussed. 

In  America  to-day,  the  situation  which  confronts 
us,  whether  working  man,  student,  or  millionaire, 
is  not  how  to  get  food  enough,  but  how  to  choose 
from  the  bewildering  variety  offered  that  which  will 
best  develop  the  powers  of  the  human  being  and 
make  him  efficient,  and,  what  is  of  greater  impor- 
tance, how  to  avoid  that  tempting  variety,  indulgence 
in  which  weakens  the  moral  fibre  and  lessens  mental 
as  well  as  physical  efficiency.  So  long  as  it  is  the 
popular  belief  that  brilliancy  of  mind  or  position  is 
chiefly  due  to  luxurious  food,  served  with  the  dis- 
guises of  the  chefs  art,  so  long  will  the  aspiring  poli- 
tician and  novel-writer  change  from  one  boarding- 
house  to  another  in  search  of  variety,  and  children 
will  continue  to  demand  the  luxuries  of  the  table  un- 
rebuked. 

In  spite  of  all  preaching,  few  really  believe  that 
plain  living  goes  with  high  thinking.  Most,  either 
consciously  or  unconsciously,  attribute  American 
versatility  and  success  to  the  richness  and  variety  of 
food  so  easily  obtained.  Neither  moralist  nor  sani- 
tarian has  begun  to  ask  whether  the  increase  of 
crime,  of  insanity,  of  certain  forms  of  disease,  of 
moral  recklessness,  is  not  attributable  to  the  debili- 


4  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

tating  effects  of  the  food  set  before  us,  to  the  lower- 
ing of  ideals  of  living  so  well  exemplified  in  the  details 
of  the  fashionable  table. 

In  the  case  of  plants,  the  importance  of  nutrition 
to  the  organism  has  long  been  recognized.  The 
gardener  produces  leaf  or  blossom  at  will,  and  even 
changes  color  and  form,  by  the  substances  he  fur- 
nishes to  the  growing  plant. 

The  American  farmer  and  wage-earner  thinks  he 
has  made  a  great  advance  when  he  can  say,  "  We  keep 
help  now  and  my  wife  and  daughter  can  sit  in  rock- 
ing-chairs and  read  novels,''  but  with  the  leisure  and 
lack  of  interesting  occupations  comes  the  habit  of 
nibbling  sweets  with  the  novels,  the  perverted  taste 
in  food  as  well  as  literature.  The  girls  have  more  food 
and  less  work  than  is  good  for  them,  with  the  logical 
biological  result  that  grandchildren  fail.  It  is  not 
over-education  but  over-nutrition  which  threatens 
race  extinction.  To  quote  Prof.  Patten  :*  "Formerly 
the  underfed  failed  to  survive;  now  it  is  the  overfed 
among  whom  the  elimination  is  taking  place.  The 
ideal  of  health  is  to  obtain  complete  nutrition.  Over- 
nutrition,  as  well  as  under-nutrition,  weakens  the 
body  and  subjects  it  to  evils  that  make  it  incapable 
of  survival.  The  plethora  of  food  now  enjoyed  in- 
duces men  to  eat  and  drink  more  than  their  systems 
can  stand.  .  .  .  Must  we  look  among  women  for  the 

*  "  Development  of  English  Thought,"  pp.  379-387^ 


FOOD   A    NECESSITY  5 

best  examples  of  over-feeding?  ...  It  is  said  that 
all  female  animals  become  barren  when  overfed.  .  .  . 
Cheap  food  and  a  sugar  diet,  therefore,  make  the 
conditions  out  of  which  the  thought  movement  of 
the  present  epoch  will  proceed." 

Man  has  a  wide  range  of  activities,  and  because  he 
does  not  see  the  separate  result  of  any  one,  he  is 
not  sensitive  to  its  effect.  Man,  also,  has  great 
adaptabiHty,  and  abuses  it  by  too  sudden  changes. 
Desire  for  food  is  one  of  the  fundamental  race  in- 
stincts, and  in  pre-scientific  days  was  supposed  to 
take  care  of  itself  under  all  circumstances.  Even 
now  it  is  usually  assumed  to  be  a  safe  guide  in  food  if 
not  in  drink.  A  distinguished  physician  has  recently 
said  :  * 

"  This  splendid  instinct — appetite — so  necessary 
for  our  existence — especially  in  early  times — has 
now  more  than  ever  to  meet  with  sudden  modifica- 
tions resulting  from  the  complexity  of  modern  life. 
While  primarily  responsible  for  the  discovery  of  in- 
numerable aliments,  the  very  abundance  in  this  gen- 
eration, both  in  quantity  and  variety,  is  embarrassing, 
and  we  find  the  results  of  unnecessary  and  artificial 
stimulation  in  the  unnatural  desires  for  food.  The 
lack  of  attention  as  to  the  appropriateness  of  food 
subjects  not  only  the  digestive  apparatus  but  all  the 
cells  of  the  individual  organism  to  distress  and  not 


*  Dr.   Charles   G.   Stockton.     *'  Hygiene," 


6  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

infrequently  to  disease.  In  this  matter  the  problem 
to  be  solved  is,  first,  how  to  train  the  appetite  into 
natural  and  wholesome  paths,  and,  second,  how  to 
live  so  that  by  means  of  proper  physical,  mental,  and 
moral  activity  there  may  be  successfully  oxidized 
the  kind  and  quantity  of  nutriment  required  in  nor- 
mal life,  and  that  there  may  be  successfully  discharged 
the  waste  products  that  result  from  the  oxida- 
tion.  .  .  . 

''  It  is  unsafe  to  trust  the  individual  to  the  guid- 
ance of  the  appetite  alone,  for  the  reason  that  this 
instinct  was  built  up  for  a  condition  of  existence 
very  different  from  that  which  enables  the  people  of 
this  country  to  indulge  themselves  to-day." 

It  is  also  true  that  appetite  can  be  educated,  di- 
'  rected,  like  any  other  habit,  but  it  is  still  a  common 
superstition  that  likings  for  food  are  inborn  traits. 

It  seems  to  be  most  difificult  to  inculcate  the  prin- 
ciples of  right  living  in  the  face  of  this  superstition, 
especially  in  the  face  of  the  intense  individualization 
so  widely  taught — namely,  that  each  person  is  a  law 
unto  himself.  Respect  for  natural  laws,  obedience 
to  the  fixed  principles  which  govern  all  living  or- 
ganisms in  order  that  freedom  of  activity  may  result, 
is  most  unwelcome  teaching.  The  bearing  of  this 
attitude  upon  habits  of  Hfe  and  cost  of  living  is  very 
evident.  Every  effort  to  inculcate  saner  ideals  is 
met    with    scofifing,    with    unproven   assertions,    and 


FOOD  A  xi-x:essity  7 

with  a  demand  for  freedom  and  unrestrained  choice 
as  a  mark,  of  American  Hberty.  Men  have  yet  to 
learn  that  ''  independence  cannot  with  safety  be 
made  to  apply  to  their  relations  with  nature." 

Scientific  sociology  must  take  account  of  these  be- 
liefs and  tendencies  and  inaugurate  a  series  of  studies 
of  existing  conditions  and  a  controlling  series  of  ex- 
periments before  any  definite  conclusion  can  be 
reached.  The  following  suggestions  are  given  for 
the  purpose  of  indicating  lines  in  which  such  studies 
and  experiments  are  desirable. 

It  is  freely  acknowledged  that  many  of  the  state- 
ments have  no  basis  of  mathematical  proof — only  a 
foundation  in  observation  of  years  and  of  a  some- 
what wide  range  of  conditions.  If  they  can  be  scien- 
tifically refuted,  well  and  good.  But,  if  they  are 
true,  thoughtful  young-  men  and  women  will  do  well 
to  take  heed  to  their  ways  before  it  is  too  late. 
Cost  of  food  is  a  result  of  several  factors. 

Seed — a  bushel  of  potatoes  or  corn  withdrawn 

from  consumption; 
Rent  for  ground  to  grow  the  plant  or  graze 

the  animal; 
Fertilizer  to  renew  the  productive  power  of 

the  soil; 
Labor  to  plough,  plant,  cultivate,  gather;  or 

to  feed,  water,  and  keep  clean  the  animal; 
Machinerv — utensils,  wear,  and  tear; 


8  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

Interest    on    capital   invested — building   and 

Plant. 
Waste  due  to  rainy  or  dry  seasons,  to  disease 

of  both  plant  and  animal; 
Preparation  for  market;  mismanagement  of 

raiser,  packer,  transporter,  distributer ; 
Inevitable  loss  in  dressing  for  the  table,  un- 
eatable parts; 
Indigestible  portions,  natural  or  produced  by 

cooking,  which  must  yet  be  paid  for ; 
Preparation  for  the  table;  cost  in  labor  and 
time,  and  waste  in  digestion,  natural  and 
due  to  wrong  choice. 
If  once  the  public  can  disabuse  its  mind  of  any 
idea  of  close  connection  between  ''  food  value  "  and 
cost — namely,   that  a  cheap   food   is  a  poor  food, 
that  a  dear  food  is  a  good  food — then  a  beginning 
in  scientific  dietaries  can  be  made.  The  cost  of  a  food 
depends  upon  how  many  of  these  factors  enter  into 
its  history  before  it  is  placed  on  the  table. 

Pudding  costs  more  than  oat-meal  mush  because 
of  the  greater  length  of  time  required  in  preparation ; 
because  skilled  labor  is  necessary  for  the  preparation 
and  transportation  of  the  ingredients. 

The  excessive  cost  of  board  to-day  is  due  to  many 
other  things  besides  the  cost  of  raw  materials.  When 
a  man  pays  $io  a  week  for  '*  table-board  "  he  pays 
for  fragile  china,  neat  aprons  and  caps  for  the  maid. 


FOOD    A   NECESSITY  9 

time  Oi  the  cook  in  garnishing,  choice  of  dishes,  etc., 
etc.,  so  that  the  raw  material  he  consumes  forms 
barely  one-third  the  total  cost. 

The  cost  of  food  is  not  only  its  money  cost,  it  is 
the  cost  to  the  body  to  appropriate  it  which  must  be 
considered. 

Man  is  an  adaptable  animal,  but  he  often  abuses 
his  power  by  asking  for  its  use  too  often  and  by 
making  too  sudden  changes.  He  can  live  on  the 
most  diverse  kinds  of  food  as  he  can  drink  the  softest 
or  the  hardest  water,  if  he  has  been  brought  up  to 
it,  but  sudden  changes  are  apt  to  be  disastrous. 

A  man  treats  his  stomach  as  if  it  were  a  thing 
apart  from  himself — an  inanimate  machine  and  a 
very  simple  one  at  that,  not  Hkely  to  get  out  of  re- 
pair. Engineers  know  how  to  get  the  best  work 
out  of  their  engines,  and  they  have  learned  that  it 
pays  to  take  care  of  the  machine.  Man's  digestive 
apparatus  is  more  delicate  and  complicated  than  any 
machine,  and  yet  he  treats  it  with  indifference,  neg- 
lect, and  even  contempt.  He  runs  it  without  trying 
to  understand  it,  and  blames  everything  but  himself 
if  it  gives  out.  In  pioneer  days  circumstances  were 
the  stern  teachers  of  wisdom,  but  now  temptations 
to  indulgence  are  on  every  street-corner  and  at 
every  family  table.  Men  go  on  as  if  they  were  made 
of  cast  iron,  as  if  by  mere  will  power  they  could  make 
poisons  into  food. 


lO  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

To  a  watcher  of  events  it  is  maddening  to  see  the 
crowd  rushing  on  to  destruction,  not  seeing  the 
precipice  and  not  believing  any  warnings,  attributing 
the  disappearance  of  friend  after  friend  to  any  but 
the  right  cause. 

When  a  man  drops  dead  in  the  street  his  friends 
say,  Oh,  he  has  been  Hving  at  high  pressure;  he 
has  had  many  business  cares;  he  has  tried  to  do  too 
much;  he  inherited  that  tendency.  They  never 
say,  He  was  so  careless  or  foolish  or  foolhardy  in 
his  eating.  The  family  physician  does  not  dare  to 
prescribe  diet,  he  knows  it  is  a  too  unwelcome  sub- 
ject; he  can  only  send  the  man  away  from  part  of 
the  temptation  on  a  sea-voyage. 

There  are  none  so  bHnd  as  those  who  wilfully  shut 
their  eyes,  and  in  all  food  matters  we  are  wilfully 
blind.    The  day  of  reckoning  will  come,  however. 

In  the  interest  of  the  race,  of  its  mental  as  well  as 
physical  development,  there  is  no  subject  which 
should  occupy  the  attention  of  educators  comparable 
with  that  of  food  and  its  influence  on  human  prog- 
ress. 

If,  as  in  some  other  things,  there  were  an  alterna- 
tive, it  would  not  so  much  matter,  but  nature  has  not 
provided  a  substitute  for  food.  Nothing  can  take 
its  place.  It  is  a  condition  of  life,  and  right  food  is 
an  essential  of  efficient  living. 

This  being  an  indisputable  fact,  it  seems  strange 


FOOD    A    NECESSITY  M 

that  all  discussion  of  it  is  tabooed  in  educational  cir- 
cles; and  still  more  strange  is  it  that  teachers,  of  all 
persons,  are  the  most  careless  and  reckless  in  mat- 
ters of  diet.  The  very  people  who  would  profit  most 
by  right  habits  of  living  seem  most  oblivious  of  the 
fundamental  principles. 

It  is  therefore  hopeless  to  expect  to  impress  the 
pupils  through  the  teachers,  hence  outside  influence 
must  be  brought  to  bear  on  both.  Naturally  it 
should  come  through  the  parents,  the  mother  chiefly, 
while  the  children  are  young,  but  the  father  who 
mingles  with  his  fellows  and  sees  more  of  life  should 
watch  for  his  share  in  the  general  training  along 
progressive  lines. 

It  has  become  too  much  the  fashion  to  allow 
children  a  greater  range  of  electives  in  food  than  in 
studies,  to  set  before  them  a  bewildering  variety 
and  applaud  rather  than  disapprove  a  whimsical 
choice. 

So  much  has  been  done  in  the  way  of  popularizing 
knowledge  that  persons  are  not  willing-  to  do  any 
thinking  for  themselves.  If  a  new  word  appears  in 
the  daily  paper,  it  must  be  explained  by  a  synonym 
of  easy  comprehension.  If  a  scientific  fact  is  an- 
nounced, it  must  be  couched  in  terms  of  every-day 
currency. 

Mental  laziness  has  come  to  be  a  distinct  charac- 
teristic of  the  mass  of  the  people  who  have  been 


12  THE   COST    OF   FOOD 

taught  facts  or  supposed  facts  without  having  had  to 
think  for  themselves.  Hence  it  happens  that  when 
the  subject  of  food  is  broached  and  such  terms  as 
proteid,  carbohydrates,  and  metabolism  are  used,  a 
repellent,  rebellious  mood  is  felt  sweeping  over  the 
audience.  Indeed,  it  is  often  voiced  in  the  request 
to  use  every-day  language,  to  tell  in  plain  terms  what 
these  things  are. 

This  is  often  impossible;  at  least  it  would  mean  oc- 
cupying time  and  space  in  definition  so  that  none 
would  be  left  for  discussion.  In  the  glossary,  pages 
151-4,  will  be  found  a  vocabulary  for  the  benefit  of 
those  who  are  willing  to  take  the  trouble  to  learn  it. 

These  few  chapters  do  not  form  a  compendium  of 
knowledge.  A  wide  acquaintance  with  generally  ac- 
cepted'facts  and  a  certain  groundwork  of  the  funda- 
mental sciences,  such  as  chemistry,  physics,  and 
physiology,  is  assumed  to  be  the  preparation  of  the 
student.  If  bacteriology,  physiological  chemistry, 
and  theoretical  chemistry  are  also  in  a  measure  in 
his  possession,  so  much  the  better.  No  attempt  is 
made  to  give  a  popular  treatise  upon  a  subject  re- 
quiring so  much  concentration  of  attention  and 
systematic  study.  Only  a  small  section  of  a  very 
large  field  is  prepared  for  the  seed  which  will  be 
dropped  into  it  from  time  to  time  from  current  scien- 
tific periodicals  and  reports.  Some  of  the  seeds  will 
prove  to  be  weeds,  and  will  be  pulled  up  and  thrown 


FOOD    A    NECESSITY  1 3 

away,  but  the  ground  will  be  kept  in  condition  to 
grow  the  good  grain  as  fast  as  it  is  found. 

The  scientific  attitude  of  mind,  namely,  to  suspend 
judgment  while  the  little  plant  of  knowledge  is  grow- 
ing, is  important.  Neither  accept  nor  throw  away 
an  idea  until  it  has  proved  itself  a  weed  or  a  good  food 
for  further  growth.  The  science  of  nutrition  is  still 
in  its  infancy. 

A  study  of  food  may  be  divided  into  three  chief 
fines: 

1st.  Food  substances  or  stufifs  and  their  office  in 
the  body; 

2d.  Food  materials  in  which  the  foodstuffs  occur; 

3d.  The  relative  cost  of  the  right  amount  of  the 
foodstuffs  when  derived  from  the  various  food  ma- 
terials. 

The  aim  of  the  present  study  is  the  3d,  which  is, 
however,  influenced  not  only  by  the  kind  of  food,  but 
by  the  preparation  and  combination  to  which  it  is 
subjected  outside  the  body,  and  by  the  mental  and 
physical  condition  of  the  body  receiving  the  pre- 
pared food.  Some  future  writer  will  be  able  to  com- 
bine results  of  these  three  studies  into  a  handbook 
which  may  be  followed.  Neither  the  cook  nor  the 
public  is  yet  ready  for  this. 

If  ''  food  is  that  which  builds  up  the  body  and 
furnishes  energy  for  its  activities/'  or  if  '*  food  is 
that  §um  of  foreign  substances  which  taken  within 


14  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

the  organism  enables  it  to  grow  and  perfect  seed 
in  the  plant,  to  grow  and  manifest  activity  in  the 
animal,  to  grow,  to  manifest  activity,  and  to  think 
thoughts  new  and  old  in  man,''  it  behooves  us  to 
learn  something  about  these  substances  which  the 
organism  uses.  Among  other  sources  of  informa- 
tion the  reader  will  find  the  data  he  needs  in  Bulletin 
No.  28,  U.  S.  Department  Agriculture,"^  and  in  *'Food 
and  Diet  "  by  Hutchison.  The  bibliography  on  page 
155  furnishes  other  titles. 

These  sources  have  been  available  only  in  recent 
years,  so  that  it  is  not  strange  that  middle-aged 
housewives  are  not  familiar  with  the  technical  terms 
used. 

The  younger  women,  however,  should  see  to  it  that 
even  the  arithmetic  of  dietaries  becomes  full  of  mean- 
ing, and  that  a  respect  for  the  value  of  properly 
selected  and  prepared  food  should  be  inculcated  with 
the  children's  other  lessons. 

*  Atwater,  W.  C,  and  Woods,  C.  D.,  Chemical  Composition  of 
American  Food  Materials.  U.  S.  Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Bulletin 
No.  28,  latest  edition.     Washington :  Government.     5  cents. 

Richards,  E.  H.,  The  Dietary  Computer.  New  York  :  John  Wiley 
&  Sons.     $i.5o»  ft^^> 


II 


FOOD  FOR  THE  INFANT 

"  A  legal  enactment  in  France  prohibits  the  giving  of  any  form 
of  solid  food  to  infants  under  one  year  of  age  without  the  au- 
thority of  a  prescription  from  a  qualified  medical  man." — Hogan. 

One  way  to  determine  what  substances  are  food 
for  mankind  is  to  find  out  the  composition  of  the 
natural  foods.  For  instance,  of  milk,  which  is  the 
universal  food  of  the  young  mammal.  This  will  pre- 
pare the  way  for  the  study  of  the  food  of  other 
animals,  both  young  and  adult. 

TABLE   I 


HUMAN    MILK. 

200  Analyses. 

Minimum 

Maximum 

Average 

cow's  MILK, 

800  Analyses. 

Minimum ;  80. 32 

Maximum !  90.69 

Average j  87. 17 


Water, 
per  cent. 


81.09 
qi.40 
87.41 


Nitrogenous 

Substances, 

per  cent. 


.69 
4.70 
2.29 


2.07 
6.40 
5-55 


Fat, 
per  cent. 


1.43 
6.83 
3.78 


1.67 
6.47 
3.69 


Sugar, 
per  cent. 


3.88 

8.34 
6.21 


2. II 
6.  12 

4.88 


Mineral 

Salts, 

per  cent. 


.  12 

1.90 

•31 


•35 

1. 21 

.71 


We  find  milk  to  consist  of  87  per  cent  water,  that 
is,  the  substances  which  make  up  the  other  13  per 
cent  are  diluted  and  are  not  in  a  concentrated  form. 
We  find  four  classes  of  substances: 


15 


l6  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

1st.  Nitrogenous,  or  albumen,  casein,  etc.; 

2d.  Fats — *'  butter-fats,''  composed  of  many  kinds 
of  fatty  acids  and  glycerine,  some  soluble  and  vola- 
tile, others  not- — the  so-called  fixed  fatty  acids; 

3d.  Sugar — milk-sugar,  one  of  the  many  sugars 
known  in  nature; 

4th.  Mineral  salts,  such  as  calcium  phosphate 
and  sodium  and  potassium  chlorides  and  certain 
gaseous  elements. 

The  first  and  fourth  classes  exist  for  the  most  part 
in  combination  with  each  other;  the  second  in  sus- 
pension— a  so-called  emulsion ;  the  third  probably  in 
simple  solution. 

Since  the  young  animal  can  live,  and  grow  well  to- 
ward maturity  on  milk  alone,  it  is  evident  that,  with 
the  exception  of  air,  here  are  all  the  elements  of 
animal  nutrition.  If  we  examine  any  animal  organism 
— fish,  worm,  insect,  or  the  human  body,  we  find  the 
same  substances,  and  none  which  cannot  come  under 
these  general  heads.  Therefore  we  may  assume  that 
the  thousand  materials  used  as  food  must  contain 
these  same  substances  in  varying  proportion. 

The  tables  of  food  composition  are  therefore 
made  out  in  terms  of  these  classes.  F6air  words  to 
learn  the  meaning  of,  and  yet  hundreds  of  intelligent 
persons  turn  away  from  any  book  on  food  where 
these  words  meet  the  eye!  Truly  we  are  a  lazv 
people  when  it  comes  to  intelligent  effort. 


FOOD    FOR    THE    INFANT  \J 

To  make  it  as  easy  as  possible,  we  will  begin  with 
the  food  of  the  infant.  At  birth  the  child  weighs,  on 
the  average,  6.5  lbs.  (girl),  7.3  (boy).  Its  first  effort 
is  to  breathe  in  the  air  that  gives  the  needful  oxygen 
for  the  transformation  of  the  food  it  next  cries  for. 
Upon  this  food  (of  which  it  takes  one-seventh  its 
weight  daily)  and  inhaled  air  it  gains  an  ounce  a  day 
in  weight  and  finds  energy  for  constant  activity.  As 
activity  increases  the  gain  in  weight  lessens,  and  one 
half  ounce  per  day  is  a  fair  average.  At  the  end  of 
the  first  year  thirteen  or  more  pounds  have  been 
added.  At  maturity  the  muscle  increase  has  been 
50-fold,  that  of  the  skeleton  25-fold,  that  of  the  total 
body  weight  18-fold.  The  composition  of  the  body 
now,  compared  with  that  at  birth,  is: 

RELATIVE    BODY    COMPOSITION 

At  Birth.  Grown  Man. 

Skeleton 16  16 

Muscles 2Z  ,  42 

Fatty  tissue 14  10 

Other  tissue 31  47 

During  this  first  year,  the  child  has  taken  some- 
thing like  500  quarts  (1,000  lbs.)  of  milk  containing 
40  lbs.  proteid,  46"  lbs.  fat,  and  50  lbs.  sugar,  or  130 
lbs.  of  food,  to  giye  13  lbs.  in  weight.  This  gives  a 
little  idea  of  the  office  of  food  in  the  body;  of  how 
much  is  used  up  in  mere  living,  in  motion,  and  how 
little  goes  to  body  tissue.  Thisi  increase  of  actual 
substance  is  still  further  cut  down  by  the  fact  that 
part  of  this  weight  is  water,  although  not  so  great  a 


1 8  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

proportion  as  is  the  case  in  later  life,  when  bones 
and  brain  have  practically  ceased  growing. 

There  is  little  to  add  on  the  food  of  the  infant, 
save  that  it  is  safest  to  "keep  to  the  natural  diet  for 
the  first  year  as  closely  as  possible. 

As  the  child  grows,  substitutes  are  found  in  other 
foods.  Starch  replaces  part  of  the  sugar;  meat 
tissue,  part  of  the  casein;  vegetable  oils  and  animal 
fats,  part  of  the  milk-fat;  while  the  mineral  salts  are 
found  in  all  materials. 

In  the  second  year  some  solid  food  is  added,  but 
the  same  relative  composition  must  be  kept.  That 
is,  the  solid  food  must  not  be  all  proteid  or  all  starch 
or  all  sugar.  The  proteid  from  animal  sources  may  be 
given  in  the  form  of  eggs,  yolk  preferred,  chicken, 
fish,  a  very  little  mutton,  and  from  vegetable  sources 
in  oat-meal  and  whole-wheat,  or  in  some  of  the  patent 
preparations  which  are  what  they  seem,  and  in  lentil 
or  pea  flour  used  for  thickening  broths.  The  starchy 
food  may  be  of  rice,  potatoes,  macaroni,  the  cereals 
carefully  chosen,  and  rusks,  pulled  bread,  or  Zwie- 
back. 

Sugar  is  now  almost  universally  advocated  as  food 
for  young  children,  not  as  amusement  between  meals, 
but  as  part  of  the  dietary  and  counted  as  such.  A 
pound  of  candy  yields  as  many  heat-units  or  calories 
as  a  child  of  fourteen  needs  in  its  whole  day.  If, 
however,   the   child   satisfies  its   appetite   with   this 


FOOD    FOR    THE    INFANT 


19 


candy,  it  defrauds  its  body  of  the  "  building  "  ma- 
terial which  the  candy  totally  lacks,  and  of  the  fat 
which  seems  equally  necessary.  (See  Hutchison, 
"  Butter  vs.  Jam.")  Of  the  10  oz.  of  carbohydrate 
which  a  child  of  fourteen  requires,  perhaps  4  oz. 
may  be  in  the  form  of  sugar.  This  is  the  quantity 
of  milk-sugar  which  a  child  of  three  or  four  years 
would  absorb  if  its  diet  were  of  niilk  exclusively. 
Cane-sugar  is,  however,  more  disturbing  to  the  di- 
gestion and  should,  therefore,  not  be  held  as  innocu- 
ous as  milk-sugar. 

This  allowable  amount  of  3  or  4  oz.  should,  how- 
ever, form  part  of  regular  meals  or  of  a  definite 
luncheon,  as  will  be  indicated  in  the  discussion  of  the 
school  luncheon. 

The  following  table,  compiled  by  Ufifelman,  will 
indicate  the  slow  variation  required  in  the  child's 
food: 

TABLE    II* 


Age. 

1  1/2  years.. . 

2  years. . . .    . . 

3  years 

4  years 

5  years 

8  to  9  years. . 
12  to  13  years 
14  to  15  years. 


Proteid, 

Fat, 

Carbohy- 
drates, 
Grams. 

Grams. 

Grams. 

42.5 

35- 

100 

45.5 

36. 

no 

59 

38. 

120 

53, 

41-5 

135 

56. 

43 

145 

60. 

44. 

I  .SO       1 

72   : 

47. 

245 

79 

48  _ 

270 

j 

Calories. 


909.7 

972.4 
1050.4 
II56.8 
1224.0 
1270.0 
1736.8 
1877.3 


*  Hutchison,  p.  453.     Schroeder,   Archiv.   fiir  Hygiene,   IV, 
39,  1886. 


20 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


In  the  child's  diet  there  is  i  part  of  proteid  to  4.5 
of  fat  and  carbohydrate.  In  that  of  the  adult  the 
ratio  is  i  to  5.5  parts. 

In  the  child's  diet  there  is  i  part  of  fat  to  3.7  car- 
bohydrate.    In  that  of  the  adult  i  to  1.6  parts. 

The  child  is  more  active  in  proportion  to  his 
weight  than  the  adult,  and  therefore  needs  a  larger 
proportion  of  calories  in  his  food.  His  body  also 
presents  nearly  three  times  the  surface  in  proportion 
to  his  weight,  and  therefore  loses  more  heat,  an  ad- 
ditional reason  for  more  heat-producing  food. 

TABLE  III 

A   GENERAL  STATEMENT 


Age, 
Years. 

Body 

Weight, 

Kilos. 

Total 

Food, 

Grams. 

Dry 

Substance, 

Grams. 

Nitrogen- 
ous, 
Grams. 

Fat, 
Grams. 

Carbohy- 
drates, 
Grams. 

Girl,  4 

Boy,  6 

Girl,  9 

13.3 
18.0 
22.7 

1203 
1560 
1660 

197 
311 
328 

44.8 
63.7 
61.3 
78.0 

41.5 
45.8 
47.0 
43-3 

102.7 
197-3 
207.7 
281 .0 

V  *4 

As  an  illustration  may  be  taken  the  food  of  a  child 
of  four  or  six. 

The  following  list  (Table  VI)  should  furnish  variety 
enough,  since  great  care  must  be  taken  to  form 
habits  of  eating  plain  food,  without  condiments  or 
stimulants,  in  order  that  full  bodily  and  mental  de- 
velopment may  take  place.     Less  variety  is  needed 


FOOD    FOR    THE    INFANT  21 

by  a  well-trained  child  than  by  an  adult.  An  indis- 
cretion in  diet  in  these  formative  years  may  result 
in  atrophy  of  some  cells,  wrong  tendencies  in  others, 
and  permanent  nerve  displacements,  just  as  a  pin- 
prick in  the  undeveloped  bud  will  leave  a  scar  which 
shows  during  the  life  of  the  tree.  The  child  has  not 
the  reserve  store  of  the  adult  and  cannot  go  with- 
out food  safely  for  any  considerable  time.  The 
digestive  organs  are  excessively  delicate,  easily  irri- 
tated; therefore  hard,  coarse,  dry  foods  are  pro- 
hibited; also  spices,  condiments,  and  all  nerve-irri- 
tants. 

It  is  also  true  that  a  taste  for  highly  spiced  food, 
for  sweets,  etc.,  may  be  fixed  by  a  very  Httle  unwise 
indulgence,  especially  since  habit  rather  than  instinct 
guides  civilized  man  in  the  choice  of  food.  It  is  the 
first  taste  that  costs:  no  sane  mother  would  give  her 
child  cofifee  or  wine ;  why  should  she  yield  to  its  curi- 
osity and  give  spiced  foods  and  rich  gravies?  If  the 
child  is  not  taught  to  be  whimsical  and  fickle  in  ap- 
petite, he  will  rarely  make  any  remarks  about  his 
food.  Alas,  he  usually  hears  too  much  for  and  against 
food,  and  as  the  parrot's  vocabulary  betrays  his  ship 
companions,  so  the  child's  fancies  betray  his  parents 
and  nurse. 

It  is,  on  all  accounts,  best  to  adhere  to  a  simple, 
well  cooked,  nutritious  diet  until  the  child  is  fifteen 
or    sixteen;    then    the    digestive    organs    will    have 


22  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

gained  their  full  strength,  and  for  the  next  twenty 
years  may  be  trusted  with  anything  in  reason. 

As  has  been  said,  milk  is  the  universal  food  of  the 
young  mammal,  furnishing  that  which  is  needed  for 
growth  and  repair,  for  muscle,  bone,  and  tissue,  and 
also,  in  its  sugar,  the  heat  form  of  energy  used  in 
keeping  the  body  warm  and  active. 

The  young  chick  in  the  egg  finds  as  its  food  that 
which  is  needed  for  all  but  activity.  Since  its  op- 
portunity for  motion  is  very  slight,  it  simply  grows, 
develops,  makes  blood  and  bone  and  muscle,  so  that 
the  chick  steps  forth  from  its  shell  a  perfect  animal 
strong  enough  to  stand,  with  wit  enough  to  eat,  but 
requiring  at  once  corn-meal  to  furnish  the  starch 
for  the  activity  which  the  young  mammal  derives 
from  the  sugar  in  the  milk. 

Since  the  egg  is  so  nearly  a  complete  food,  and 
so  easily  transformed  into  animal  tissues,  it  is  well 
to  study  its  composition  and  to  compare  it  with  milk, 
meat,  and  fish: 

TABLE    IV 

Water,  Nitrog.  Fat,  Food  yalue 

Foodstu.  percent.        Substances     percent,    per  lb.  in  Cal^ 

per  cent. 

Whole  egg,  without  shell  73.7  12.5  12.1  742 

Yolkofegg 51.0  16.1  3i.4(Konig)i623 

White  "    85.5  12.9  .25  250 

Young  chicken,  broiler  .  .   43.7  12.8  1.4  295 

Fowl 47.1  13.7  12.3  775 

Beef,  round,  lean 40.9  19.5  7'3  ^7© 

Dressed  halibut 61.9  15.3  4«4  47° 

salmon 48.1  13.8  8.1  600 


FOOJ)    FOR    THE    INFANT  2$ 

The  growing  chick,  before  activity  begins,  needs 
74%  water,  12%  N.,  10%  fat,  and  in  addition  1% 
mineral  salts.  One  egg-shell  equals  40  grams.  It  is 
possible  that  part  of  this  is  used  as  needed.  Oxygen 
for  the  metabolism  of  the  egg  contents  must  come  in 
through  the  shell.  It  is  clear  that  the  egg  contents 
are  not  sufficient  for  the  activity  of  the  chick,  since 
its  appetite  at  once  develops  for  cornmeal  as  well 
as  for  grubs;  neither  are  they  dilute  enough  to  fur- 
nish water  for  evaporation  and  for  that  general  tissue 
exchange  which  motion  of  body  increases.  Water, 
being  the  heat  regulator  of  the  body,  is  constantly 
being  lost  and  hence  must  be  supplied  in  the  food 
in  greater  amount  than  is  needed  for  mere  exist- 
ence. We  learn,  then,  that  eggs  are  not  sufficient 
in  themselves  for  the  active  child.  They  contain  too 
little  water,  too  much  nitrogen,  but  we  also  learn 
that  they  must  contain  the  right  proportion  for 
body  building,  and  therefore  are  a  valuable  food,  es- 
pecially when  there  is  a  demand  for  just  this  kind 
of  sustenance,  as  after  fever;  in  cases  of  nerve  ex- 
haustion, as  well  as  for  growing  children.  As  in 
milk,  the  substances  found  in  eggs  do  not  exist  by 
themselves,  but  in  combination  one  with  another  or 
several  in  a  more  or  less  loose  connection.  Thus  the 
sulphur  and  phosphorus  seem  to  be  in  close  asso- 
ciation with  the  fat  in  the  form  of  lecithin.  It  is 
barely  possible  that  this  group  may  be  utilized  with 


24  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

less  expenditure  of  .energy  than  some  other  forms  of 
matter  for  nerve  building  and  nutrition ;  only  a 
limited  amount  can  be  assimilated  in  a  given  time, 
therefore  it  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  a  diet  of  eggs 
can  be  used  to  force  brain  development,  certainly  not 
beyond  a  very  small  limit. 

Th,e  foods  nearest  in  composition  to  eggs  are  the 
various  meats  and  fish,  as  is  to  be  expected  from  the 
fact  that  flesh  is  formed  in  the  tgg  from  its  contents. 
Meats,  however,  differ  in  that  they  contain  the  prod- 
ucts of  the  decomposition  due  to  muscular  activity, 
to  breaking  down  of  tissue,  such  as  urea,  and  they 
also  are  more  or  less  rich  in  the  tough  collagen  or 
connective  tissue  which  holds  the  bundles  of  cells  in 
place  and  serves  as  ropes  or  straps  to  join  muscle  to 
the  framework  of  bone.  The  fat  of  muscle,  both  in- 
terstitial and  enveloping,  lacks  the  high  mineral  con- 
tent of  the  egg-fat  combination,  the  latter  occurring 
only  in  marrow  and  brain  to  any  degree,  so  that  fat  of 
meat  is  not  a  perfect  substitute  for  fat  of  egg. 

The  various  cuts  of  meat  differ  largely  in  regard 
to  the  amount  of  fat,  both  interstitial  and  envelop- 
ing. 

Fish,  as  a  rule,  has  less  fat,  and  in  products  of  de- 
composition ranges  with  white  meats,  such  as  breast 
of  chicken,  and  veal. 

It  is  evident  that  lean  meat  does  not  burnish  suffi- 
cient heat-units  for  normal  human  life,  that  verv  fat 


FOOD    FOR    THE    INFANT  2$ 

meat  must  be  eaten  to  bring  up  the  calories.  It  is 
well  known  that  the  child,  as  a  rule,  has  a  distaste  for 
fat,  therefore  a  leaf  may  be  taken  from  the  diet-book 
of  the  chick  and  starchy  foods  be  added  as  soon  as 
milk  ceases  to  be  the  sole  food.  This  must  not  be 
done  until  the  child's  digestive  juices  are  able  to 
transform  starch  into  an  assimilable  sugar,  which  is 
at  about  the  ninth  month.  Even  then  a  limited 
amount  only  is  given  until  the  second  year. 

Since  the  mucous  membrane  of  the  child  is  of  a 
most  delicate  and  easily  irritated  texture,  it  is  un- 
wise to  give  acids  or  foods  which  produce  acids  on 
decomposition,  or  to  give  food  which  has  woody 
fibre  or  any  indigestible  substance  until  greater  vigor 
of  digestion  appears.  Therefore  the  oatmeal  is  bet- 
ter strained,  "  oatmeal  jelly,''  and  the  wheat  and  bar- 
ley pearled.  If  abundance  of  milk  and  eggs  are  given, 
white  bread  and  rice  may  serve,  but  where  the  cost 
of  the  former  is  too  great,  the  necessary  mineral  salts 
must  come  from  whole  wheat,  oatmeal,  peameal 
soup,  strained. 

It  is  unsafe  to  use  any  cereal  food  which  happens 
to  be  put  upon  the  market  with  the  idea  that  all 
cereals  are  ahke  digestible.  Experiments  on  chil- 
dren are  costly. 

The  reader  is  advised  to  study  the  diet  of  the  infant 
and  young  child  as  to  quantity  and  quality,  to  be- 
come perfectly  familiar  with  the  composition  of  these 


26  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

twenty  foods,  Table  VI,  and  with  the  combination  of 
them  into  suitable  menus. 

The  child's  food  still  contains  much  water,  that  in 
the  form  of  ripe  fruits,  soups,  and  milk  is  better  than 
too  much  from  the  city  tap — but  if  bread  and  butter 
is  the  staple,  then  much  water  should  be  allowed.  It 
will  be  easy  to  make  up  a  day's  menu  from  Table  VI 
for  a  child  of  four  to  six,  for  instance  : 

TABLE   V 

ONE   day's    menu 

•^«.'"-<'-  I^    Su5[r„c4S£^  Grails  '^-«r 

Grams.      q,^^^       Grams     ^    °^*  Grams. 

1  1/2  pint  milk 679  88.8         22.3         27.1       33.9 

1/2  pound  bread 226         147  20.3  3.6     119. 8 

1/8   pound   dry   rice  (1/2  lb. 

cooked) 56.6  49  4.5  .1       44.7 

4  ounces  orange 114  41.7  .1  .1         9.7 

2  ounces  egg 56.6  19.5  7.3  5.3 

1/2  ounce  butter 14  12  .1  11. 9 

At  average  prices,  this  would  cost  12  to  13  cents. 

If  the  reader  wishes  to  become  familiar  with  dietary 
work,  this  sort  of  problem,  worked  out  in  a  variety 
of  costs  for  two  different  ages  with  the  substances 
given  in  Table  VI,  will  serve  as  an  excellent  introduc- 
tion. For  books  on  children's  diet,  from  the  medical 
standpoint,  consult  the  bibHography.  For  a  diet  of 
low  cost,  see  pages  6i  to  65,  "  Children  in  Institu- 
tions.''    On  soup  instead  of  milk,  see  page  63. 

The  young  mother  is  advised  to  keep  closely  to  the 
simple  diet  of  very  few  foods  and,  as  was  said  earlier, 


FOOD    FOR    THE    INFANT 


27 


TABLE    VI 

APPROXIMATE    COMPOSITION    OF    SOME    COMMON    FOOD    MATERIALS 


Apples 

Barley  (pearled) 

Beef  (round) I 

Beef    juice     (as    p  u  r- 1 

chased) I 

Beef  juice  (as  it  should' 

be) ' 

Bouillon  andconsomme. ! 

Bread  (white) 

Butter 

Cheese       (American 

pale) 

Chicken 

Cream 

Cream  soup 

Eggs  (whole) 

Eggs  (yolli) 

Lentil  meal 

Milk  (whole) 

Mutton  (leg) 

Oatmeal 

Peas  (green) 

Potatoes 

Prunes  (dried) 

Raisins       "     

Rice 

Wheatlet 


25 


34.8 


10.5 


18 


15 
ID 


= 

u 

u> 

0 

u 

u 

u 

3. 

•^ 

61 

•5 

10 

.8 

64 

•2  1 

93 

88 

96 

35 

4 

II 

31 

6 

48 

5 

74 

87. 

4 

66 

49 

5 

10. 

73 

87 

51 

4 

7. 

2 

74- 

6 

62 

1 

19 

14 

9 

10. 

4 

a. 


1.8 
42.2 
86 

22.2 

31 
II 

43.1 
4-5 

130-6 
67 
84 
23.5 
59-4 
73.5 

115. 5 
14.9 

67.5 
70 

3-2 

8 

8.6 
II. 3 
43 
55.9 


S 


1.8 

4-5 
32.2 

2.7 


44 

385 

164.2 

5 
20.4 

14.5 
43-1 
151 

8.7 
18. 1 
67.5 
33 

2.2 

•4 


21.3 
2.3 
6.3 


^  (J  B 
u 


56 
352 


1.8 
239.5 


2 

25 


260 
22.7 


308 
76. 
69 
282 
338. 
363 
340 


255 

1660 

650 

115 
127 

55 
1205 
3504 

2060 

325 

910 

285 

645 

1705 

1620 

325 

905 

i860 

465 

325 

1189 

1635 

1685 

1685 


not  to  give  "  tastes  "  of  other  foods;  on  no  account 
to  permit  the  tasting  of  tea  or  coffee.  If  eggs  and 
cream  seem  to  make  the  little  one's  diet  as  costly  as 
that  of  the  grown-ups,  remember  that  these  few 
years  determine  the  child's  future.  That  an  inflamed 
stomach  may  mean  years  of  invalidism;  that  an  irri- 


28  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

tated  brain  may  mean  insanity  later.  The  money 
spent  now  can  well  be  saved  later.  Above  all  remem- 
ber that  a  wrong  diet  means  irritability,  bad  temper, 
and  general  uncomfortableness.  The  healthy  ani- 
mal is  a  happy  animal.  As  has  been  indicated  above, 
12  to  15  cents  per  day,  where  food  has  to  be  pur- 
chased at  city  rates,  gives  a  fair  average  for  a  child 
of  four  to  six.  Where  only  half  that  can  be  spent, 
there  is  always  danger  that  some  organ  will  suffer. 
Well-cooked  cornmeal  and  whole-wheat  bread  made 
with  fat  must  then  take  the  place  of  eggs,  rice,  but- 
ter, and  cream.* 

*  For    special    diets    consult    Dr.    Clement    Dukes'    "  School 
Diet." 


Ill 


FOOD  FOR  THE  CHILD  AT  SCHOOL 

"Old  men  bear  want  of  food  best;  then  those  that  are  adults; 
youths  bear  it  least,  most  especially  children,  and  of  them  the 
most  lively  are  the  least  capable  of  enduring  it." 

— Hippocrates. 

The  child  is  now  of  school  age  and  goes  from  the 
business  of  eating  and  sleeping  and  telling  to  his 
companions  the  wonderful  things  he  has  found  out, 
to  that  of  studying  things  out  of  books  and  reciting 
to  others  dull  facts  just  as  he  has  learned  them. 
He  passes  from  the  freedom  of  play  to  the  restraint 
of  the  desk  and  chair,  from  constant  out-door 
life  (if  he  is  a  fortunate  child)  to  the  bad  air  of 
the  school-room.  He  is  in  great  danger  of  injury 
from  these  causes  even  if  his  food  is  adapted  as  per- 
fectly as  science  permits.  But  when  that  is  wrong 
there  is  little  wonder  that  the  pace  kills. 

At  twelve  he  needs  only  a  little  more  fat  in  his  food 
than  at  six.  Whether  this  is  because  the  growth  of 
brain  and  marrow  is  now  very  slow,  or  whether  the 
body  is  best  served  with  the  fat  made  from  the  car- 
bohydrates, or  whether  the  presence  of  extra  fat  in- 
terferes with  some  process — it  is  a  fact,  that  less  fat  is 

29 


30  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

present  in  available  form  in  the  tissues,  and  there- 
fore there  is  less  reserve  force  available. 

The  grown  man  carries  several  days'  rations  in  his 
tissues  in  the  form  of  fat  so  that  it  is  no  matter  of 
consequence  whether  he  gets  full  meals  on  a  given 
day.  No  organ  will  suffer  by  even  three  or  four  days' 
abstinence  if  the  man  is  in  normal  condition,  but  no 
young  animal  (note  the  absence  of  visible  or  stored 
fat  in  veal,  in  chicken  broilers)  carries  much  reserve, 
hence  the  child  who  goes  to  school  without  break- 
fast becomes  exhausted  before  noon  and  some  brain- 
cell  may  suffer  by  atrophy,  or,  in  order  to  save  the 
precious  legacy,  nutrition  may  be  abstracted  from 
muscles  already  formed  and  a  stunted  growth  result. 

The  food  of  the  child  at  school  is  then  second  in 
importance  only  to  that  of  the  infant,  and  the  parent 
who  neglects  this  part  of  his  child's  bringing  up  is 
culpable  and  his  sin  will  surely  be  visited  upon  the 
third  and  fourth  generations. 

This  is  not  the  place  to  go  into  an  exhaustive  dis- 
cussion of  the  food  given  at  home,  for  if  the  general 
family  table  is  w^ell  cared  for  there  will  be  less  danger 
to  the  youth  of  high-school  age  from  what  he  finds  on 
it  than  there  is  in  the  noon  luncheon. 

At  this  period  of  change  and  unrest,  flavor  begins 
to  count  for  more,  and  greater  pains  should  be  taken 
to  use  such  natural  foods  as  contain  possibilities  of 
flavor.     Asparagus,  lettuce,   celery,  etc.,  owe  their 


FOOD    FOR    THE    CHILD    AT    SCHOOL  3 1 

popularity  and  efficiency  not  to  their  food  values 
reckoned  in  calories  or  proteids  but  to  the  stimulus 
to  the  nerves  given  by  the  very  small  quantity  of 
sapid  principles.  Used  with  discretion,  these  are  ad- 
juncts worth  the  excessive  price.  For  a  pound  of 
food  value  in  this  form  $1.00  to  $2.00  is  often  paid  in- 
stead of  I  to  2  cents  for  a  pound  of  wheat  or  corn. 
The  cost  of  many  of  these  things  is  now  excessive  be- 
cause their  real  value  is  not  appreciated,  and  efiforts 
are  not  directed  to  producing  and  preparing  them. 

The  child  at  school  needs  to  have  temptation 
to  indiscriminate  eating  removed,  because  modern 
school  life  is  exciting  at  best  and  the  food  should  be 
such  as  to  quiet  rather  than  excite.  The  lack  of  fresh 
air  should  be  considered  in  planning  the  food  of  the 
child  in  the  school-room,  for  such  confinement  is  at 
best  unnatural.  What  modification  of  diet  may  be 
made  to  meet  such  conditions  is  not  yet  known.  It 
may  be  found  that  it  is  in  response  to  this  artificial  life 
that  sugar  is  demanded  by  the  modern  child.  Certain 
it  is  that  sugar  may  be  allowed  if  it  is  taken  so  as 
not  to  interfere  with  the  appetite  for  more  substan- 
tial food.  There  is  a  real  reason  why  sugar  and  the 
predigested  foods  should  not  form  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  diet.  All  food,  to  be  of  use,  must  be  in  a 
condition  to  pass  through  the  membranes  of  the 
digestive  tract.  Soluble  substances  are  liable  to  pass 
through  too  rapidly  and  in  too  great  quantity  for  the 


32  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

immediate  need  of  the  tissues,  and  thus  to  clog  the 
capillaries  or  irritate  the  nerves,  or  give  a  sense  of 
sufficiency  before  enough  is  really  eaten;  soon  there 
is  a  craving  for  more,  and  at  odd  times. 

It  is  better  where  a  considerable  time  elapses  be- 
tween meals  to  have  a  portion  of  the  meal  less  quickly 
diffusible.  Therefore,  supply  starch  rather  than 
sugar,  bread  rather  than  all  meat,  but  not  too  diffi- 
cultly digested  food  as  fried  eggs  and  rich  gravies — 
which  require  not  only  time  but  energy  to  make 
available. 

Child-study  does  not  yet  include  a  study  of  the  in- 
fluence of  food  upon  the  mental  as  well  as  physical 
growth,  it  nevertheless  may  have  more  definite  and 
direct  bearing  than  anything  else.  Over-stimulation 
is  impossible  to  the  child  who  is  properly  fed;  nerv- 
ous troubles  are  directly  traceable  to  bad  digestive 
conditions.  It  is  only  in  rare  cases  that,  by  accident 
or  malformation,  nerves  are  so  crowded  or  twisted 
that  the  currents  *'  short  circuit."  Most  irritation 
arises  from  inflamed  tissues  due  to  products  of  in- 
digestion. These  products  are  carried  by  the  blood 
to  every  part  of  the  body;  and  that  which  is  most 
sensitive  is  most  affected.  The  child  at  school  needs 
a  quality  of  food  which  will  give  a  rich  blood  carry- 
ing only  those  substances  which  the  tissues  can  use, 
not  loaded  with  that  which  must  be  rejected.  In  the 
effort  to  reject,  a  strain  is  put  upon  some  part  which 


FOOD    FOR    THE    CHILD    AT    SCHOOL  33 

becoming  weakened,  soon  shows  by  inflammation  or 
by  torpidity  that  it  is  not  doing  its  work. 

If  there  is  any  place  where  penury  is  dangerous 
it  is  in  the  food  of  children  at  school,  and  especially  in 
the  noon  lunch  of  high-school  children.  The  pre- 
vailing American  habit  of  intemperance  in  eating 
leads  to  such  indulgence  by  the  children  that  ten 
cents  a  day  must  be  spent  at  a  lunch-counter  to  pro- 
cure clean,  well-prepared  food  which  will  satisfy  the 
average  pupil.  Just  as  good  food  could  be  served 
for  five  cents,  and  perfectly  sufficient  might  be  given 
for  three.  This  extravagance  works  injury  to  the 
most  deserving  pupils — those  from  families  where 
even  twenty-five  cents  a  week  for  each  child  is  not 
to  be  thought  of  aside  from  the  family  budget.  And 
so  because  of  this  gross  feeding  of  the  class  which 
puts  pleasure  of  the  senses  before  future  well-being, 
the  child  of  less  fortunate  parents,  who  probably  has 
a  better  brain,  must  struggle  through  his  school  years 
without  the  warm  luncheon  which  would  be  so  bene- 
ficial. Fortunately  he  sometimes  has  far  better  di- 
gestion and  is  able  to  secure  from  unpromising  ma- 
terials a  sufficiency  of  nutrition. 

The  necessity  of  attention  to  the  food  of  school 
children  is  becoming  recognized,  and  school  authori- 
ties are  alive  to  the  wisdom  of  providing  fuel  for  the 
fires  they  are  kindling. 

The    school   luncheon    for    high    schools    or   any 


34  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

schools  where  children  are  prevented  from  going  to 
their  homes  for  a  12-0'clock  meal  may  cost,  as  we 
have  said,  from  five  to  ten  cents,  well  served  at  a 
counter  with  the  least  paraphernalia.  If  it  is  to  serve 
in  place  of  the  noon  meal,  as  in  manual  training 
schools  where  the  session  lasts  until  3  o'clock,  then 
the  pupils  should  be  served  at  tables  with  due  regard 
to  neatness  and  order,  and  with  ample  time  for  two 
courses.  The  expense  of  service  may  be  lessened 
by  the  pupils  buying  the  served  order  at  a  counter 
and  taking  it  themselves  to  the  table  which  has  been 
cleaned  by  a  maid.  Rightly  managed  this  is  success- 
ful and  reduces  the  final  cost. 

This  kind  of  luncheon  will  cost  from  ten  to  twenty 
cents.  It  iieed  not  cost  more  than  eight  to  twelve, 
but  taking  the  average  American  youth  as  he  is,  the 
higher  cost  only  will  satisfy,  and  if  means  allowed  he 
would  spend  more. 

A  few  words  as  to  the  character  of  this  luncheon 
may  not  be  amiss:  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that 
the  child  is  going  back  to  study,  in  not  too  good 
air —  often  in  very  bad  air.  Therefore  not  too  much 
blood  (energy)  must  be  taken  from  the  brain,  and  yet 
circulation  is  to  be  promoted  so  that  fresh  blood  may 
be  brought  to  the  brain-cells  before  they  are  too  ex- 
hausted to  benefit  by  it.  The  mental  forces  are  to 
be  gently  stimulated  and  not  rendered  torpid,  as  is 
the  case  when  the  child  becomes  sleepy. 


FOOD    FOR   THE   CHILD    AT    SCHOOL  35 

For  quickening  the  circulation,  fluid  and  warm 
fluid  is  best  in  many  cases, — such  as  hot  milk,  soup 
(if  not  greasy)  and  cocoa.  Cold  fluid,  as  milk  or 
fruit,  is  often  quite  as  acceptable. 

Vigorous  children  can  take  the  fluid  in  the  form  of 
water  and  the  solid  in  the  form  of  bread  and  butter 
with  or  without  meat,  or  in  the  form  of  crackers, 
which  appeal  to  children  and,  if  well  masticated,  seem 
to  agree  with  them  even  better  than  the  excessively 
yeasty  bread  so  common.  American  children  will 
not  be  satisfied  without  some  sweet,  and,  right  or 
wrong,  they  will  have  it.  It  may  be  an  effort  to  off- 
set the  unnatural  conditions  to  which  they  are  sub- 
jected, to  furnish  a  quick-burning  fuel,  one  which  can 
be  used  at  once  and  leave  no  ash  behind,  one  which 
while  giving  less  energy  also  requires  less  energy  to 
convert  into  useful  material.  In  any  case,  the  liking 
for  sweets  must  be  heeded  and  that  form  given  which 
will  serve  the  best;  namely,  fruit-sugars  as  far  as 
possible  and  milk-sugar  as  soon  as  it  can  be  bought 
for  ten  cents  per  pound.  All  dried  fruits — dates,  figs, 
raisins — are  most  excellent  food  and  should  be  freely 
furnished.  Gingerbread  and  cookies  may  be  used 
for  variety,  but  the  most  attractive  viand  on  account 
of  flavor,  consistency,  texture,  and  temperature  will 
be  ice-cream.  If  properly  made,  of  the  best  ma- 
terials and  with  absolute  cleanliness,  this  is  a  valu- 
able food,  high  in  actual  value  per  pound.     In  the 


36  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

warm  days  of  spring  and  fall  it  is  most  refreshing,  and 
the  quantity  which  can  be  served  for  ten  cents 
will  not  appreciably  lower  the  temperature  of  the 
child's  body,  especially  since  he  is  apt  to  make  the 
pleasure  last  as  long  as  possible. 

If  luncheon  is  served  at  table,  well-made  Rash, 
I  creamed  fish  or  chicken,  well-made  stews,  eggs,  cold 
/  meats,  baked  apples,  or  light  puddings  may  be 
added.  For  a  noon  luncheon  when  brain-work  is 
demanded  after  it,  pastry,  doughnuts,  custards,  etc., 
should  be  prohibited.  They  demand  too  much  ex- 
penditure of  energy  by  the  body. 

In  winter  a  nut-cake  may  not  be  too  hearty  for 
the  robust  ones  who  demand  strong  food,  even  frost- 
ing on  the  cake  may  be  permissible,  if  these  rich  and 
sweet  things  are  not  eaten  at  all  at  intervening 
times  so  as  to  afifect  the  appetite.  This  precious 
remnant  pi  the  instincts  of  primitive  man  is  worthy 
of  care.  A  distinguished  physician  has  said,  ''  If  life 
in  other  respects  is  normal,  this  appetite  is  likely  to 
lead  in  the  right  direction.''  But  alas!  who  leads  a 
normal  life?  Certainly  not  the  city  child  for  whom 
we  find  ourselves  constantly  planning.  Young  peo- 
ple should  not  crave  the  constant  stimulant  of  variety 
and  condiment.  Something  is  wrong  with  their 
bringing-up  when  they  do. 


IV- 

FOOD  FOR  THE  ACTIVE  YOUTH 

"  Food  is  the  only  source  of  human  power  to  work  or  to 
think." 

For  the  type  of  young  person  is  usually  chosen 
the  soldier  who  may  be  fed  on  the  compact,  hearty 
food  of  camp  life,  provided  it  is  savorily  prepared, 
without  so  many  kinds  of  dishes  at  one  meal  as  the 
city  clerk  requires,  because  his  sauces  are  out-of-door 
life,  fresh  air,  something  to  do  all  the  time.  That 
is,  the  soldier  in  the  field,  the  youth  in  the  logging- 
camp  or  on  the  farm,  keeps  up  the  excess  of  activity 
begun  in  childhood,  only  now  it  is  applied  to  useful 
and  commercial  ends.  So  long  as  activity  is  kept 
up,  food  is  demanded  in  greater  quantity  than  at  any 
other  time.  The  purveyor  is  usually  right  when  he 
charges  for  a  young  teamster  double  the  board  which 
is  ample  for  a  seamstress.  However,  the  cost  is  not 
necessarily  greater  for  a  double  amount  of  food  since 
it  may  be  of  less  expensive  materials  than  the  smaller 
quantity  of  more  costly  food  demanded  by  the  whim- 
sical appetite  of  the  sedentary  person. 

37 


38  THK    COST    OF    FOOD 

When  the  youth  is  at  college  instead  of  at  military 
service,  how  shall  his  food  be  graded?  His  life  is  one 
of  less  activity — unless  he  is  on  an  athletic  team — of 
more  mental  exertion,  which  we  believe  requires  an 
ample  supply  of  food  although  the  mechanics  of 
thought  seem  to  be  more  economically  carried  on 
than  the  mechanics  of  motion.  In  both  cases  ease  of 
work  depends  largely  upon  accustomedness  to  the 
kind  of  effort. 

In  a  six-day  bicycle  race  the  winner  used  4770 
calories  per  day,  while  the  contestant  who  failed 
on  the  fourth  day  used  4610  and  the  second  in  the 
race  6095,  which  increase  was  evidently  not  put  to 
the  best  use  in  developing  energy. 

In  vigorous  youth  a  taste  for  all  natural  foods 
should  be  cultivated  and  a  power  of  digestion  de- 
veloped which  shall  stand  him  in  good  stead  in  after 
life.  It  is  his  one  chance,  and  woe  to  parent  or 
teacher  who  destroys  it  and  inflicts  life-long  misery. 
This  is  no  vision  of  a  disordered  brain.  Take  a 
census  of  any  thousand  students  in  any  State  in  the 
Union  and  set  apart  those  whose  appetite  and  diges- 
tion are  normal,  who  could  live  on  whatever  was  set 
before  them,  and  how  small  a  company  you  would 
find! — hardly  enough  for  one  table. 

Most  instructive  lessons  may  be  learned  from  the 
training  table    of   football   teams,   boat   crews,    and 


FOOD    FOR    THE    ACTIVE    YOUTH  39 

soldiers  on  the  march  as  to  diet  for  excessive  physi- 
cal work.  We  find  that  the  following  is  a  fair  state- 
ment of  the  results  at  hand: 

Proteid,      _Fat,      Carbohy 


Grams.      Grams. 


drates.  Calories. 

Grams. 


Average  of  7  boat  crews.. .    155  177  440  4085 

One  football  learn 181  292  577  5740 

United  States  Army 85  280  500  4944 

The  form  in  which  the  food  is  served  is  to  be  that 
to  which  the  men  are  accustomed,  so  that  they  will 
eat  it.  The  soldier  takes  his  ration  of  bread,  bacon, 
beans,  or  stewed  meat  and  cofifee  without  ''  frills  "  of 
strawberry  shortcake,  ice-cream  or  cofifee-jelly  which 
a  Harvard  boat  crew  requires.  The  former  costs  15 
to  20  cents,  the  latter  80  cents  to  $1.00  per  day. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  increase  is  in  all  the  fac- 
tors, not  in  any  one,  which  fact  adds  weight  to 
the  beHef  that  food  is  to  be  taken  as  a  whole,  not  in 
separate  parts;  that  the  body  can  select  that  which 
it  needs  and  reject  the  rest.  The  increased  labor  of 
the  athlete  does  not,  however,  always  bring  lasting 
strength,  for  some  one  organ  is  very  apt  to  be  over- 
strained. Few  men  live  to  a  comfortable  old  age 
who  have  over-exerted  themselves  in  youth. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  quote  dietaries  in  full  for  this 
active  life.  The  various  army  rations  show  w^hat 
may  be  done,  and  the  U.  S.  Government  bulletins 


40  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

give  many  illustrations.  As  a  transition  from  this 
chapter  to  the  next  there  is  considered  the  cost  of 
food  for  the  large  number  in  the  middle  West  who  are 
workers  part  of  the  year  and  students  the  rest.  It  is 
not  possible  for  them  to  have  the  delicate  flavors  and 
great  variety  which  are  usually  associated  with  a 
student's  table  in  the  East. 

The  provider  who  cannot  go  above  lo  cents  per 
pound  for  food  value  contents  himself  with  cabbage 
and  onions,  which  serve  the  same  purpose  as  as- 
paragus and  lettuce  and,  it  would  seem,  equally 
well. 

Observation  of  the  habits  of  young  people  in 
America,  east  and  west,  north  and  south,  leads  the 
author  to  the  conclusion  that  the  use  of  sapid  vege- 
tables in  a  suitable  way  is  very  much  neglected,  that 
it  is  most  unfortunate  when  "  I  do  not  like  turnip," 
'"  I  do  not  eat  squash,''  are  heard  at  every  tabl^,  that 
college  students  avoid  green  vegetables  unless  they 
are  disguised  in  soups  or  sauces. 

There  are  many  good  ends  served  by  these  de- 
spised roots  and  leaves,  not  the  least  of  which  is 
"  stuffing,"  since  the  twentieth-century  digestive  tube 
is  in  danger  of  growing  up — contracting  to  a  string — 
for  lack  of  distending  material.  The  absorbing  sur- 
face is  distributed  over  many  times  in  extent  the 
nominal  area  of  the  tube,  and  if  this  surface  is 
crowded  together  instead  of  distended  by  fluid  and 


FOOD    FOR    THE    ACTIVE   YOUTH  4 1 

fibrous  mass,  absorption  cannot  so  readily  take  place, 
even  if  inflammation  does  not  result. 

It  has  been  said  that  fear  of  indigestible  food  is  the 
bugbear  of  modern  life.  We  might  say  that  the 
word  itself  is  one  of  the  most  misused  terms.  Most 
persons  consider  any  substance  which  requires  a 
long  time  to  go  into  solution  indigestible.  Thus 
smoked  meats  and  legumes  remain  four  or  five  hours 
in  the  stomach  undergoing  a  slow  macerating  proc- 
ess, and  yet  may  be  as  completely  utilized  by  the  body 
in  the  end  as  sweetbreads  and  rusks,  which  leave  the 
stomach  in  two  or  three  hours. 

There  is  far  less  danger  from  cellulose-bearing 
vegetables  than  from  fat-bearing  sauces.  Thudichum 
says,  ''  Cooks  should  avoid  introducing  concealed 
forms  of  fat  into  dishes  needlessly,  as  they  may  preju- 
dice physiological  nutrition." 

Several  educational  institutions  in  the  middle 
West  are  known  to  feed  their  students  on  good  and 
sufficient  food  even  for  brain-workers  at  sums  vary- 
ing from  14  to  15  cents  per  day  per  person.  The 
students  are  for  the  most  part  country  bred  and  they 
come  to  the  school  for  a  serious  purpose,  willing  to 
endure  hardship  if  need  be  for  the  sake  of  an  end 
in  itself,  but  only  a  means  to  the  end  they  seek.  One 
such  institution  furnished  the  author  with  the  fol- 
lowing bill  of  fare  which  will  serve  as  a  sample. 
Vegetables  are  raised  either  on  the  college  farm  or 


42  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

are  purchased  cheaply,  which  is  a  large  part  of  the 
secret  both  of  the  health  of  the  students  and  the  in- 
expensiveness  of  the  dietary: 


APPROXIMATE  BILL  OF  FARE 

Mondays  and  Thursdays 

Breakfast:  Warm  drink;  cereals,  oatmeal  and  Gra- 
ham gems;  vegetables  and  meat  (cod- 
fish balls),  bread  and  butter. 

Dinner:  Vegetables,  mashed  potatoes;  meat,  beef- 
steak with  gravy;  side  dish,  peas  or 
Lima  beans;  dessert,  apple  pie,  hot  corn 
bread. 

Supper:  Bread  and  butter,  Graham  bread  and 
sirup,  sauce  (peaches),  doughnuts  (hot). 

Tuesdays  and  Fridays 

Breakfast:  Warm  drink;  cereals,  oatmeal  and  Gra- 
ham gems  ;  vegetables  and  meat ;  hash ; 
bread  and  butter. 

Dinner:  Soup;  vegetables,  baked  potatoes;  meat, 
bacon,  mutton  or  veal  with  gravy;  des- 
sert, macaroni  or  canned  tomatoes, 
hot  corn  bread. 

Supper  :  Biscuit  and  butter,  white  and  Graham 
bread,  sirup,  sauce  (apple),  cheese. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  ACTIVE  YOUTH 


43 


Wednesdays  and  Saturdays 
Breakfast:  Warm  drink;  cereals,  oatmeal  and  Gra- 
ham gems;  vegetables  and  meat;  Irish 
stew;  bread  and  butter. 
Dinner:        Vegetables,   beans  or  peas;  meat,   pork 
(with   the  vegetables);  side  dish,   tur- 
nips, greens  or  cabbage;  dessert,  pud- 
ding or  tarts,  Boston  brown  bread  and 
sirup. 
Supper:       Cold  beans  or  peas,  bread  and   butter, 
Graham  bread,   sauce    (berries),   plain 
cake. 


Sundays 
Breakfast:  Warm    drink;    cereals,    fried    mush    and 

sirup  (or  eggs);  vegetables,  potatoes; 

meat,  fish,  gravy;  bread  and  butter. 
Dinner:        Vegetables,  potatoes;  meat,  roast  meat 

and    gravy;    side    dish,    according    to 

season;  dessert,  according  to  season; 

hot  corn  bread. 
Supper:       Bread  and  butter,  Graham  bread,  plain 

cake,  sauce,  cheese. 
Accounts. — Endeavor  to  use  as  much  as  4|-  lbs. 
flour,  I  lb.  corn,  i  lb.  oats,  -|  lb.  beans  or  peas,  ^  lb. 
skim-milk  cheese,  and  1-5  lb.  codfish  per  person,  per 
week.  Use  as  much  more  of  these  articles  as  you 
can  make  acceptable. 


44  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

Endeavor  not  to  exceed  2^  lbs.  potatoes,  |  lb. 
butter,  i  lb.  pork,  2J  lbs.  beef,  i  lb.  sugar,  2  eggs 
per  person,  per  week. 

Side  dishes  like  peas  and  Lima  beans  may  be  served 
without  extra  plates  or  saucers. 

Sirup  once  a  day. 

Several  other  schools  are  known  to  the  writer 
where  a  similar  severe  restraint  is  put  upon  mere  ap- 
petite for  the  sake  of  gaining  an  education,  and  hence 
the  confidence  with  which  the  assertion  on  page  41 
is  made. 

There  is  no  intention  of  recommending  so  limited 
a  dietary  in  every  case,  but  it  may  be  of  advantage  in 
certain  cases  to  know  what  is  possible  without  injury 
to  health.  A  strong  appetite  is  a  great  safeguard 
against  the  dangers  arising  from  intermittent  sup- 
plies, and  is  a  chief  factor  in  the  energy  of  the  pioneer. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  YOUTH  AT  COLLEGE  AND  FOR  THE 
BRAIN-WORKER 

"The  digestibility  of  a  food  is  of  far  greater  concern  to  a 
brain-worker  than  its  chemical  composition." — Hutchison. 

While  it  is  true  that  food  must  be  considered  as 
a  whole  and  not  separated  into  constituents  for  one 
organ  over  another,  yet  there  are  certain  broad  gen- 
erahzations  derived  from  ages  of  experience  and 
years  of  scientific  observation  which  should  serve  as 
guides  to  our  limited  knowledge  in  diet. 

The  horse,  when  called  upon  to  do  heavy  draught 
work,  which  requires  steady  pulHng  under  direction, 
is  apt  to  be  fed  with  corn  and  hay;  while  the  spirited 
roadster  or  hunter,  which  is  called  upon  to  have  his 
wits  about  him  and  to  use  reserve  force  suddenly,  has 
oats  with  little  hay  and  corn. 

The  man  in  a  logging-camp  at  hard  work  m  the 
open  air  at  a  low  temperature  finds  pork,  beans,  and 
pan  bread  or  biscuit  none  too  s.atisfying  and  sustain- 
ing, while  the  student  sitting  in  an  over-heated  room 
with  only  a  short  walk  three  times  a  day,  often  at  a 
slow  pace,  well  muffled  up,  would  be  unable  to  digest 

45 


46  THE    COST    OF    FOOD  / 

a  quarter  of  the  lumberman's  diet,  and  finds  himself 
clearer  of  brain  with  eggs,  toast,  and  cof¥ee  for 
breakfast,  and  chicken  and  rice  for  dinner. 

The  obvious  lesson  to  be  learned  is  that  muscular 
exercise,  while  it  uses  proteid  and  fat,  uses  by  prefer- 
ence more  carbohydrate  when  it  is  available  than 
mental  exercise  appears  to  demand.  It  is  true  that 
the  body  needs  to  have  muscular  exercise  in  order 
to  keep  its  charge — the  brain — active,  but  above 
that,  it  does  seem  as  if  the  brain  requires  more  fat 
and  nitrogen  in  proportion.  The  system  must,  as 
was  said,  be  kept  up  in  good  condition  and  then — 
so  economical  is  the  body — a  very  little  excess 
of  ''  brain  food  "  supplies  the  need;  but  it  is  a  waste 
to  manufacture  it  out  of  substances  from  which  it  is 
obtained  only  at  the  expense  of  many  by-products, 
or  at  the  expense  of  much  digestive  force. 

Above  all  else,  the  brain-worker  needs  a  "  clear 
head  *'  that  is  one  in  good  working  condition,  this 
demands  blood  that  is  fluid  enough  to  circulate  freely, 
rich  enough  in  oxygen  to  keep  all  the  cells  bathed  in 
it  at  their  maximum  vitality,  with  dissolved  nutritive 
substances  sufficient  for  the  needs  of  repair  and 
nourishment.  There  must  be  absent,  moreover,  all 
traces  of  imperfect  decomposition  in  the  circulating 
fluid  which  will  tend  to  irritate,  inflame,  or  clog  the 
minute  blood  vessels. 

The  food  may  be  anything  which  serves  the  proper 


FOOD    FOR    THE    YOUTH    AT    COLLEGE  4/ 

\  purpose  of  food,  provided  it  is  properly  prepared. 
The  brain-worker  is  subjected  to  the  great  disad- 
vantage  of  bad  air  and  lack  of  exercise.  This  leads 
to  a  loss  of  appetite,  which  is  then  stimulated  by  ad- 
ditions of  strong  flavors  and  by  attractive  serving. 
He  seems,  of  all  men,  the  last  to  see  the  true  remedy 
for  lack  of  strong  appetite.  If  he  must  continue 
to  work  in  close  air  and  with  little  activity,  then 
take  a  lesson  from  the  chick  in  the  shell  and  let  him 
eat  a  limited  quantity  of  the  most  easily  digested 
nitrogenous  food,  with  the  fat  predominating  over 
the  carbohydrates  and  possibly  in  the  latter,  sugar 
taking  precedence  of  starch. 

Therefore,  while  the  food  for  the  brain-worker 
should  belong  to  the  class  easily  digested,  it  should 
not  be  too  concentrated  or  be  predigested  so  that  a 
large  amount  is  at  once  available  in  the  blood  cur- 
rent. For  in  a  short  time  there  is  a  lack  of  available 
food  which  results  in  exhaustion  and  possibly  in  an 
overstepping  of  the  elastic  limit  of  recovery. 

The  temptation  is  great  to  use,  according  to  the 
directions,  the  various  proprietary  foods  found  in  the 
market.  The  busy  student  does  not  seem  to  grasp 
the  idea  that  food  for  his  body  and  brain  must  pass 
through  several  transformations  by  means  of  the  al- 
ready present  cells  before  it  can  nourish  new  ones. 
He  seems  to  consider  it  suflficient  to  pour  in  prepared 
milks,  cereals,   etc.,  just  to  fill  the   void.      Mental 


48  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

energy  he  seems  to  hold  as  heaven  given  without 
the  intervention  of  earth  forces. 

To  the  man  whose  brain  is  his  capital,  the  loss  of 
an  hour  of  thinking-power  may  mean  thousands  of 
dollars,  yet  in  ninety-nine  cases  out  of  one  hundred 
such  a  man  will  eat  a  meal  which  will  inevitably 
weaken  his  power  of  thought  and  possibly  change  the 
future  of  a  town  or  county. 

Unbelief — "  no  matter  what  a  man  eats  " — is  his 
bane,  and  when  he  breaks  down  at  fifty  it  is  said  to 
be  because  he  applied  himself  too  closely — never  be- 
cause he  was  foolish  in  his  diet. 

The  contrary  picture  is  even  more  pitiable;  a 
fine  mind  the  prey  of  morbid  fear  lest  the  food 
should  not  suit.  This  condition  often  follows  a  break- 
down and  is  a  result  of  previous  neglect  of  the  most 
obvious  laws  of  health.  It  sometimes  seems  as  if  the 
more  deHcately  organized  the  mind,  the  greater 
danger  there  is  of  fixing  it  upon  its  own  condition. 
For  this  reason,  if  for  no  other,  right  habits  should 
be  acquired  in  youth  before  the  danger  of  morbid 
mental  processes  is  so  great.  For  this  reason,  also, 
there  should  be  restaurants  where  the  business  man 
and  scholar  will  not  be  tempted  to  swallow  food  sure 
to  use  up  mental  energy.  His  home  table  should  be 
laid  with  strength-giving  and  not  strength-sapping 
viands,  so  that  the  evil  may  be  reduced  to  a  minimum. 

But  all  this  caire  costs  too  much  money  and  means 


FOOD  FOR  THE  YOUTH  AT  COLLEGE      49 

too  much  time  given  to  it!  Not  at  all,  if  skill  and 
judgment  are  used.  Because  the  flavor  of  mush- 
rooms adds  to  the  reHsh  of  the  steak  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  buy  a  pound  of  fresh  mushrooms  at  $1.00  the 
pound.  Because,  on  a  given  occasion,  an  author  has 
written  a  particularly  brilliant  paragraph  after  eat- 
ing a  dish  of  sweetbreads  there  is  no  cause  for  fur- 
nishing a  like  dish  every  day. 

Students  going  up  for  examination,  business  men 
with  decisions  of  large  import  to  make,  professional 
men  with  great  interests  at  stake,  all  require  the  full, 
available  amount  of  nervous  energy,  and  the  food 
taken  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  should  be 
that  which  will  give  this  energy.  In  each  case  it  may 
be  different.  Eggs  for  one,  bacon  for  another,  rare 
beefsteak  for  a  third,  while  a  fourth  may  have  such  a 
bank  of  health  to  draw  upon  that  rolls  and  cofi^ee  with 
a  banana  or  other  fruit  may  put  him  in  the  best  condi- 
tion. The  usual  American  breakfast  of  all  kinds 
of  flesh,  fish,  or  fowl  with  vegetables  and  hot  bread, 
never  fits  a  man  for  his  best  work. 

The  author  has  expressed  elsewhere,  and  more 
than  once,  the  view  that  it  is  the  imperative  duty  of 
the  college  and  university  to  take  in  hand  the  matter 
of  food  for  the  future  leaders  of  the  nation,  as  an 
example  of  what  education  really  stands  for  if  for  no 
other  reason. 

If  Dr.  Johnson  was   right  in  his   statement  that 


50  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

*'  women  can  spin  very  well,  but  they  cannot  make  a 
good  book  on  cookery/'  it  behooves  the  university 
man  to  follow  the  example  of  the  eighteenth-century 
savant  and  turn  his  attention  to  the  transmutation 
of  the  dross  of  the  market  into  the  fine  gold  of  the 
highest  human  endeavor. 

The  unexpected  is  relished  in  food  as  in  pleasure 
by  those  who  are  sensitive  mentally  to  tastes  and 
appearances.  A  surprise  is  welcome  even  if  it  is  a 
simple  affair.  This  means  only  foresight  on  the  part 
of  the  provider,  and  care  taken  not  to  exhaust  all 
combinations  by  too  lavish  a  display. 

Happy  is  the  man  who  is  so  well  balanced  that  he 
takes  his  breakfast,  as  his  newspaper,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  and  who  is  no  more  ruffled  by  the  fraction  of 
variation  in  the  stiffness  of  his  boiled  egg  than  by 
the  rumour  of  an  Indian  outbreak.  Happy  is  he  who 
sits  down  to  the  dinner  provided  for  him  without 
thought  of  what  he  must  leave  out,  with  a  mind  free 
for  social  pleasure,  secure  in  the  skill  and  knowledge 
of  his  cook. 

What,  then,  shall  the  brain-worker  eat?  A  little 
of  anything  which  his  system  can  appropriate.  His 
table  need  not  be  different  from  that  of  other  men 
in  appea'rance.  A  few  things  may  well  be  omitted, 
as  rich  gravies,  sauces,  custards,  patties,  highly 
seasoned  or  fried  entrees.  Fresh  bread  and  pastry 
should  be  rigorously  banished,   otherwise  a  liberal 


FOOD    FOR    THE    YOUTH    AT    COLLEGE  5  I 

diet  of  a  few  well-cooked  and  well-seasoned  dishes 
at  any  one  meal  should  give  mental  vigor. 

Of  great  value  to  the  man  who  lives  much  indoors 
are  frequent  outings  of  two  or  three  days  when  all 
the  cobwebs  may  be  blown  away  and  all  the  capil- 
laries flushed  out  by  ocean  breezes  or  mountain 
blasts.  The  stimulus  of  change,  even  if  the  food  is 
only  moderately  good,  is  invaluable.  Length  of  time 
is  of  less  importance  than  completeness  of  change. 

The  joy  of  living — who  would  not  have  it? — and 
yet  how  few  are  willing  to  pay  the  price  of  it!  A 
little  thought,  a  little  self-control,  and  then  forget 
that  there  is  such  a  thing  as  digestion.  Thrice 
blessed  the  man  whose  body  is  such  a  perfect  ma- 
chine that  he  is  not  conscious  of  it — only  in  such 
case  is  he  a  whole  man. 

Just  as  a  suggestion,  we  may  say  here  that,  for  the 
family  table,  forty  cents  a  day  per  person  is  ample; 
thirty  cents  should  suffice,  and  with  ''  a  $5,000  wife*," 
the  brain-worker  will  thrive  on  twenty-five  cents  per 
day.     (See  pages  123  to  133.) 

*At  the  Columbian  Exposition  in  1893,  a  gentleman  was  heard 
to  say,  on  leaving  the  *'  Workman's  Cottage "  with  its  family 
living  on  $500  a  year,  '*  It  will  take  a  $5,000  wife  to  do  it." 


VI 

FOOD  FOR  THE  TRAVELLER  AND  FOR  THE  PRO- 
FESSIONAL PERSON 

"  For  they  can  conquer  who  believe  they  can." 

The  man  who  has  an  aim  in  life  is  ready  to  forego 
certain  indulgences  which  his  companions  with  no 
thought  of  the  future  provide  for  themselves.  He 
may  refrain  from  smoking  or  from  theatre-going, 
from  the  social  affairs  which  would  cost  either  money 
or  time.  He  does  this  in  order  that  he  may  be  a  great 
writer,  philosopher,  or  that  he  may  make  a  name  for 
himself  as  an  engineer  or  a  business  man.  The  one 
thing  he  does  not  take  into  account  is  the  quality  of 
the  food  he  eats  and  its  efifect  upon  his  prospects. 
He  may  consider  its  cost  and  deny  himself  rf  suffi- 
cient supply,  but  at  the  present  day,  as  a  rule,  the 
dangei:  is  in  the  poor  quality  rather  than  in  the 
quantity.  For  lack  of  knowledge  of  the  fundamental 
position  of  the  digestive  system  in  the  human  econ- 
omy, the  majority  of  persons  subject  it  to  a  strain 
impossible  for  it  to  bear  with  safety,  and  then  blame 
every  other  condition  for  the  results. 

From  the  necessity  of  the  case,  the  traveller  is 

52 


FOOD    FOR    THE    TRAVELLER 


53 


surrounded  with  stimulating  sights  and  sounds, 
whether  agreeable  or  otherwise,  giving  the  nervous 
system  extra  labor,  and  therefore  making  it  a  duty 
to  supply  it  with  nutrition.  This  stimulation  has  a 
very  beneficial  effect  upon  those  who  have  fallen  into 
self-pitying  ways  and  whose  digestion  has  been  im- 
paired by  too  much  coddling.  But  the  temptation  to 
eat,  when  one  has  nothing  else  to  do,  a  variety  of 
dishes  badly  cooked  and  indifferently  served,  is  too 
great  for  many  persons  to  resist.  The  lawyer  who 
has  to  make  a  plea  for  his  client,  the  engineer  who 
has  to  examine  a  bridge,  the  pleasure-seeker  with  a 
long  journey  before  him  cannot  afford  to  arrive  at  his 
destination  with  mental  or  physical  power  in  the  least 
impaired,  in  a  depressed  instead  of  a  refreshed  condi- 
tion. 

The  most  important  factor  of  the  many  contribut- 
ing to  the  favorable  or  unfavorable  result  of  a  journey 
is  the  food  taken  on  the  way.  "  Just  for  once  it  will 
not  matter.''  If  tainted  meat  disguised  with  juicy 
sauces  and  French  names  is  eaten,  or  if  a  jumble  of 
canned  lobster,  re-frozen  ice-cream  and  puff  paste  is 
hastily  swallowed  at  a  20-minutes-for-lunch  counter, 
a  sick  headache  may  warn  the  rash  traveller  or  acute 
indigestion  may  follow.  More  probably  the  viands 
will  not  show  their  vicious  character  so  actively,  but 
will  simply  cause  heaviness,  loss  of  sleep,  general  irri- 
tation  producing  such   a   condition   of   the   system 


54  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

that  disease  finds  a  weak  defence  at  a  time  when  it 
should  be  met  with  strong  resistance.  Travelling 
has  been  made  safe  and  comfortable  beyond  antici- 
pation in  nearly  all  points;  good  air  and  proper  food 
are  still  wanting. 

Since  the  body  is  not  making  any  exertion,  it 
needs  not  the  foods  which  furnish  bodily  energy  and 
repair  waste,  except  in  so  far  as  the  involuntary  work 
goes  on:  there  is  required  less  than  half  the  usual 
amount  of  food.  If,  in  travel,  a  person  can  store  up 
energy  for  the  future  strain  as  a  person  is  fed  in  a 
hospital  before  an  operation,  it  is  safe  to  take  more 
food,  but  this  storing  demands  the  right  materials 
and  that  measure  of  good  air  which  the  railroad  train 
does  not  give,  although  the  steamer  may.  This  is 
a  difference  between  the  two  modes  of  travel 
which  seems  not  to  have  been  considered  by  either 
caterer  or  eater.  Less  meat  in  made  dishes,  less 
pastry,  less  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  more  good 
fruit  and  well-cooked  vegetables  w^ould  conduce  to 
the  health  of  the  railway  traveller.  Crusty  rolls, 
fresh  butter,  cookies  for  those  who  like  sweets — 
cake,  even,  is  far  safer  for  the  occupant  of  a  heated  car 
than  the  usual  bill  of  fare.  The  dining-car  has  pro- 
vided most  carefully  for  good  water;  let  it  now  pro- 
vide safe  milk  and  delicate,  digestible  dishes.  It  is 
certain  that  it  will  do  so  whenever  the  public  is  wise 
enough  to  demand  such  a  table.  As  it  is,  the  traveller 


FOOD    FOR    THE    TRAVELLER  55 

who  wishes  to  reach  his  journey's  end  in  prime  condi- 
tion omits  two-thirds  the  bill  of  fare. 

The  professional  man  or  woman — teacher,  nurse, 
doctor — who  has  little  outdoor  exercise  needs  to 
observe  a  similar  caution  in  every-day  life,  the  bal- 
ance between  health  of  mind  and  of  body  is  very 
easily  put  out  of  order,  and  it  should  not  be  as  difficult 
as  it  is  to  secure.  At  present  the  way  of  the  trans- 
gressor is  easy.  A  dish  of  blueberries  and  so-called 
cream  costs  20  cents,  a  piece  of  blueberry  pie  con- 
taining three  times  the  food  value,  requiring  five 
times  the  labor  to  prepare,  costs  10  cents.  Two 
doughnuts  cost  5  cents,  while  rolls  and  butter  cost 
10,  and  bread  and  milk  with  half  the  food  value 
costs  15.  What  a  revolution  the  simple  adjustment 
of  price  of  food  to  value  would  cause! 

In  one's  own  home  the  case  is  little  better  unless 
the  mistress  understands  how  to  keep  the  golden 
mean  between  the  appetite  and  the  need  of  the  body. 
To  a  great  extent  each  person  is  a  law  unto  himself, 
but  when  a  dull,  sleepy  or  headachy  afternoon  is  sure 
to  follow  the  partaking  of  a  certain  lunch,  why  con- 
tinue to  take  that  lunch?  ''  She  tempted  me  and  I 
did  eat.''  How  many  a  man  could  say  it  with  perfect 
truth  to-day.  When  shall  the  lesson  of  the  proverb, 
*'  A  man  is  what  he  eats,"  be  thoroughly  learned? 

Is  life  worth  living?     Then  let  us  learn  to  make 


$6  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

the  most  of  it,  for  half  its  cost  is  the  cost  of  the  food 
to  sustain  it. 

It  is  the  belief  in  the  potency  of  natural  causes  to 
bring  man  to  his  full  estate,  and  an  ambition  to  reach 
that  estate  that  is  demanded.  Every  person  must 
make  his  choice,  not  only  as  to  a  profession  and  his 
place  in  it,  but  as  to  how  much  he  is  willing  to  pay 
for  it. 

THE   BUSINESS    MAN's  LUNCHEON 

A  tour  of  down-town  lunch  places  at  the  noon 
hour  reveals  two  sharply-defined  classes  of  patrons: 
(i)  Those  who  believe  in  steak  and  chops  as  best 
brain-  and  nerve-food,  and  can  afford  a  dollar  or  a 
dollar  and  a  half  luncheon.  (2)  Those  who  believe 
in  staying  the  pangs  of  hunger  for  the  least  money. 
These  pay  ten  cents  for  a  piece  of  pie  and  some 
cheese  with  a  glass  of  milk,  or  a  cup  of  coffee  at  five 
cents  more,  and  get  just  as  much  nutritive  value  as 
the  other — provided  the  body  can  assimilate  it  in  that 
form  : 

Proteid,        Fat,       Carbohydrate,   /-oirt..;-o 
Grams.     Grams.  Grams.  Calories. 

Chop 15  20  ....  247.5 

Potatoes 2.1  .1  17.7  82 

Salad .5         1-6  1.4  23 

Orange-ice 12  49 

17.6       21.7  31. I  401 

^  mince  pie 6     15      66       436 

J  oz.  cheese 3-5    4-i      -3      53-7 

^  pint  milk 8.3   10.      12.5      178 

17.8   29.1     78.8     668 


FOOD    FOR    THE    TRAVELLER  57 

If  the  luncheon  is  to  serve  as  dinner,  double  its 
value  in  both  cases  may  be  put  upon  it. 

Habit  is,  alas,  all-powerful,  and  the  man  with  g^reat 
business  interests  at  stake,  which  he  must  consider  at 
his  desk,  will  continue  to  rush  out  for  his  quick  and 
hasty  luncheon  just  as  he  did  five  or  ten  years  before 
when,  as  a  subordinate,  he  was  on  the  street  half  the 
morning-  going  from  one  business  building  to  an- 
other, to  the  wharves,  to  the  custom-house,  etc. 
Very  few  men  seem  to  adapt  their  habits  to  their  con- 
dition. Again  and  again  I  must  say  it,  it  is  because 
of  their  unbelief  in  the  effect  of  food  on  their  physical 
condition  and  on.  their  careers. 

THE    shopper's   LUNCHEON 

The  majority  of  women  who  throng  thS  stores 
may  also  be  divided  into  two  classes:  (i)  The  care- 
ful housewife  with  a  long  list,  who  is  appalled  at  the 
prices  of  the  restaurant  and  who  tries  to  finish  her  day 
of  unaccustomed  exercise  on  a  slice  of  toast  and  a  cup 
of  tea,  or  takes  chocolate  eclairs  or  a  small  ice-cream, 
with  the  natural  consequence  of  a  raging  headache, 
blunted  judgment,  and  unsatisfactory  purchases. 
(2)  The  woman  who  boards  and  who  means  to  eat 
something  she  likes  or  something  new,  and  who  does 
not  mind  the  time  it  takes.  She  comes  down  town 
nearly  every  day,  and  she  does  not  travel  half  the  city 
over,  in  one  day,  as  does  the  first  woman,  she  saunters 


58  THE   COST    OF   FOOD 

slowly  along  one  street  or  two  at  most.  Her  luncheon 
consists  of  a  medley  of  croquettes,  salads,  and  sweets 
which  could  never  agree;  dishes  dressed  over  so  that 
the  original  ingredients  may  never  be  revealed,  and 
she  pays  fifty  to  seventy-five  cents  for  the  next  day 
in  bed,  or  perhaps  a  physician,  and  her  family  pay  in 
unhappiness. 

Until  one  makes  a  business  of  visiting  the  popular 
restaurants  of  any  city,  one  does  not  realize  what  a 
force  these  restaurants  are  in  the  forming  and  fixing 
of  food  habits.  Many  attempts  have  been  made  to 
provide  hygienic  luncheons,  but  the  number  of  those 
willing  to  reform  at  the  expense  of  a  little  time  and 
thought  is  too  small  at  any  one  point  to  sustain  such 
an  estabHshment.  Besides,  the  only  persons  who 
have  interest  enough  in  the  problem  are  those  cranks 
who  believe  a  single  article  of  diet,  or  a  peculiar  way 
of  cooking,  is  all-sufficient.  In  every  city  there  may 
be  found,  in  out-of-the-way  places,  ''  eating-houses  " 
presided  over  by  some  motherly  soul  where  really 
good  food  may  be  had  under  plain  old-fashioned 
names;  where  one  need  not  fear  to  eat  of  any  dish 
on  the  bill  of  fare ;  where  below  stairs  it  is  as  clean  as 
the  visible  portion  and  where  twenty-five  or  thirty 
cents  will  procure  a  good  meal. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  TRAVELLER  59 


BACHELOR  BOARDING 


I  have  elsewhere  estimated  that  25%  of  the  family 
income  was  a  sufficient  proportion  to  pay  for  raw 
food  material  and  15%  more  for  the  preparation, 
serving,  etc.  For  an  income  of  $1,200  per  year  this 
would  mean  $300  for  food  and  $200  for  serving  it,  or 
$500  out  of  the  $1,200  for  a  family  of  three  or  four 
persons,  including  the  maid  and  occasional  guests. 

The  young  man  with  a  salary  of  $1,200  is  apt  to 
pay  $5  or  $6  a  week  for  his  table-board,  $300;  and 
lunches  and  suppers  beside  to  the  extent  of  $150. 
Now,  then,  can  he  consider  matrimony  and  the  sup- 
port of  a  family?  He  rightly  feels  that  he  must  live 
well  in  order  to  do  his  work  well,  and  he  does  not 
know  how  to  do  it  for  less,  and  no  one  is  solving  the 
problem  for  him.  If  he  marries,  his  wife  has  only 
the  same  bachelor  experience  to  go  upon  and  can 
only  double  the  expense.  What  wonder  that  it  is  a 
current  saying  among  men,  ''  Oh,  I  can't  marry  until 
I  have< $3,000  a  year.''  A  fine  commentary,  this,  on 
the  intelHgence  and  thrift  of  American  youth,  and  a 
good  and  sufficient  reason  for  the  decrease  of  na- 
tive population! 

A  word  to  the  thoughtful  should  be  sufficient.  An 
adequate  discussion  of  the  bearing  of  these  facts 
would  lead  us  too  far  afield. 


VII 

FOOD  FOR  THOSE  IN  PENAL  AND  PAUPER 
INSTITUTIONS 

"  Deficient  diet,  like  all  morbid  conditions,  both  corporeal  and 
mental,  is  a  vitiating  and  degenerating  influence." 

— King  Chambers. 

Those  unfortunate  individuals  who  are  kept  at  the 
expense  of  the  State  may  be  conveniently  divided 
into  two  general  classes: 

1.  The  potential  citizen,  as  pauper  children  who 
may  grow  up  into  men  and  women  returning  to  the 
State  full  value,  criminal  youth  who  may  be  brought 
into  better  ways  and  so  repay  the  care  and  trouble; 
and  the  sick  poor,  who  also  come  under  this  class. 

2.  The  pauper  past  work,  the  hopelessly  insane, 
and  the  vicious. 

The  food  for  the  latter  class  may  be  dismissed 
with  few  words.  While  the  State  undertakes  to  care 
for  them,  it  must  not  starve  them  nor  give  them 
such  food  as  to  cause  diseased  conditions.  This 
latter  is  self-evident,  because  a  sick  person  costs  more 
to  care  for  than  a  well  one.  But  there  is  no  obliga- 
tion  to    give   them   more   than   that   quantity   and 

quality  which  will  serve  the  ends  of  existence.    They 

60 


FOOD  FOR  CRIMINALS  AND  PAUPERS      6 1 

have  forfeited  any  rights  to  pampering.  Hence  it 
is  that  when  a  subsistence  ration  is  to  be  studied, 
scientific  men  all  over  the  world  go  to  these  institu- 
tions for  data.  There  are  several  other  reasons  why 
conclusions  are  more  valuable  in  such  cases.  The 
inmates  have  ]i:.tle  chance  of  getting  food  from  out- 
side. They  are  usually  under  the  eye  of  the  physi- 
cian. The  raw  food  material  is  of  standard  quality, 
of  which  the  analyses  are  more  numerous,  and  there- 
fore more  to  be  relied  upon.  It  is  limited  in  variety, 
purchased  by  contract,  and  the  amounts  served  are 
more  definitely  known.  This  is  in  cases  where  there 
is  no  fraud,  and  where  the  cooking  is  skilfully  and 
conscientiously  done — which  is,  alas,  not  always  the 
case. 

In  one  institution,  of  the  first  class,  no  longer  in 
existence,  several  hundred  children  from  six  to  four- 
teen years  were  fed  at  a  cost  of  9.5  cents  with  sufficient 
good  raw  material  which  was  spoiled  in  the  cooking, 
— insufficiently  stewed  beans,  which  caused  diarrhoea 
in  many  cases,  sour  bread,  etc.  Their  blotched, 
pinched  faces,  and  stunted  bodies,  were  pitiful  to  be- 
hold. It  were  better  that  they  should  have  been  put 
out  of  the  way  like  superfluous  kittens  than  that  they, 
through  no  fault  of  theirs,  should  be  kept  alive  to  be 
no  credit  to  themselves  or  to  the  State. 

The  inexpensive  foods  require  the  most  skill  in 
cooking,  and  if  such  an  institution  will  not  pay  its 


62  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

cooks  well,  it  should  allow  more  rations  to  make  up 
for  those  that  are  spoiled.  For  three  hundred  per- 
sons fed,  a  difference  of  five  cents  a  day  in  cost  of 
raw  materials  means  over  $5,000  per  year.  It  will 
pay  any  institution  to  spend  $1,000  in  salaries  to  save 
this  amount,  and  yet  to  secure  more  palatable  and 
more  nutritious  food,  which  can  be  done  so  readily 
with  sufficient  knowledge. 

See  Table  VII,  p.  69,  for  some  estimates  of  costs 
and  quantities  as  a  basis  for  experiment  in  other 
cases. 

The  same  is  true  of  these  children  and  young 
people  as  of  more  favored  ones,  that  any  injury  from 
wrong  nutrition  affects  the  whole  after-Hfe  and 
lessens  the  chance  of  their  growing  up  to  be  re- 
spectable citizens.  So  fully  is  this  understood  abroad 
that  several  foreign  countries  see  to  it  that  school 
children  are  fed  at  State  expense  rather  than  run  the 
risk  of  having  to  care  for  them  later  as  vicious  or  in- 
competent persons. 

Seven  cents  a  day,  or  nine  at  most,  should  serve 
for  those*"  of  whom  the  world  has  nothing  more  to 
hope;  while  for  the  others  seventeen  cents  may  be 
allowed  for  the  older  and  fifteen  for  the  younger 
ones,  rather  than  a  mean  of  twelve  or  fourteen  for  all. 

Sharp  separation  of  the  inmates  into  groups  is  thus 
called  for  m  feeding,  however  undesirable  it  may  be 
from  certain  other  ethical  standpoints. 


FOOD  FOR  CRIMINALS  AND  PAUPERS      63 

For  young  children  maintained  at  city  or  chari- 
table charge,  soup  must  take  the  place  of  milk  to  a 
certain  extent.  A  sufficient  milk  diet  will,  as  we  have 
seen,  cost  12  to  16  cents  per  day;  so  that  in  cases 
where  only  9  cents  is  allowed  this  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. A  glance  at  the  following  table  will  show  how 
various  soups  may  be  substituted.  Starchy  grains,  as 
rice  and  barley,  take  the  place  of  the  sugar  in 
milk. 

From  Ufifelman's  table,  page  19,  we  find  that  a 
child  of  5  needs  in  grams : 

Proteid,        Fat,   Carbohydrates,  i-^i^^-  „ 
Grams.       Grams.        Grams.  <-aiones. 

56  43  145  1224 

3  pints  of  ordinary  milk,  costing 

10  or  12  cents 46  43  67.7  871 

Bread,  4.5  oz.,  1.7  cents 13  1.3  71.0  358 

59     44.3   1:^8.7     1229 

2  pints  barley  soup,  5  cents 36.2  27.7  85.0  743 

2     "       pea  "        5     "     13.0  1.3-  71.0  358 

1/2  oz.  butter,  0.5     **     14.0  ....  130 

49.2  43.0       156.0  1231 

Bread  and  soup,  then,  may  be  substituted  at  one 
or  two  meals  for  bread  and  milk,  as  giving  the 
needed  fluid  as  well  as  proportional  ingredients.  Of 
course  tea  and  coffee  are  not  to  be  thought  of. 
Cocoa  is  too  expensive,  although  a  flavor  of  it  in  hot 
milk  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  day-long  decoc- 
tion of  shells  so  popular  with  institution  cooks. 
Gingerbread,  both  hard  and  soft,  cookies  with  much 
of  the  sugar  outside.  If  possible,  some  rice  well 
cooked,  not  mushy,  but  with  separate  grains,  should 


64  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

take  the  place  of  so  much  potato.  Rice-milk  may  be 
used.  One  pound  of  rice  contains  69%  starch  and 
yields  1600  calories  at  a  cost  of  five  or  six  cents. 

One  pound  of  potatoes  contains  19%  of  starch  and 
yields  only  320  calories  at  a  cost  of  two  or  even  three 
cents  for  the  portion  used.  It  requires  some  5  or  6 
pounds  of  potatoes  to  give  the  fuel  value  of  one 
pound  of  rice. 

Potato  puree  and  stale  rolls  rubbed  up  as  a  milk 
puree  make  an  acceptable  variety.  The  Germans 
use  veal  as  soup-stock  much  more  than  we  do,  and 
insist  that  suitable  veal  is  much  more  digestible  than 
beef,  which  is  rarely  used  in  their  dietaries  for  chil- 
dren. 

A  common  division  for  the  mid-day  meal  is  16  to 
20  grams  of  albumen  and  32  to  40%  of  the  cost  for 
the  day.  The  quantity  miay  be  150  grams  rice-milk, 
or  300  grams  soup  with  35  to  45  grams  meat.  After 
the  age  of  two  years,  10  pfennigs  (2.5  cents)  per  day 
are  allowed. 

ACTUAL  BILL  OF  FARE, ORPHAN  ASYLUM 

[Cost  9.5  cents  per  person  daily — average  for  six  months,  1899.] 

Sunday 
Breakfast:  Liver,  bread,  coffee  or  tea. 
Dinner:        Corned  beef,  stewed  fruit,  hominy,  and 

dessert. 
Supper:       Bread,  gingerbread,  tea  or  milk. 


FOOD   FOR   CRIMINALS   AND   PAUPERS  65 

Monday 

Breakfast:  Sausage,  bread,  coffee  or  tea. 
Dinner:       Roast  beef,  rice,  potatoes,  and  gravy. 
Supper:       Biscuit,  butter,  tea  or  milk. 

Tuesday 

Breakfast:  Oatmeal,  bread,  coffee  or  tea. 
Dinner:        Hash,  slaw<5  potatoes,  and  gravy. 
Supper:       Bread,  molasses,  tea  or  milk. 

Wednesday 

Breakfast:  Scrapple,  bread,  butter,  and  coffee. 
Dinner:  Pork,  beans,  potatoes,  and  dessert. 
Supper:       Bread,  butter,  tea  or  milk. 

Thursday 

Breakfast:  Gravy,  bread,  butter,  and  coffee. 
Dinner:       Brunswick  stew,  slaw,  and  potatoes. 
Supper:       Apple  butter,  bread,  tea  or  milk. 

Friday 

Breakfast:  Oatmeal,  butter,  bread,  and  coffee. 
Dinner:        Roast  beef,  hominy,  potatoes,  and  gravy. 
Supper:       Bread,  butter,  milk  or  tea. 

Saturday 
Breakfast:  Bread,  butter,  coffee  or  tea. 
Dinner:       Ham,  cabbage  or  turnip,  and  potatoes. 
Supper:       Apple  butter,  bread,  tea  or  milk. 


66  THE   COST    OF   FOOD 


PROPOSED  MENU  FOR  HOME,   TO  COST  II    CENTS 

[Prices  Ruling  in  1898.] 

Sunday 

Breakfast:  Boiled  rice  or  hominy  with  molasses, 
bread,  cereal  coffee  or  milk. 

Dinner:  Roast  beef  and  gravy,  potatoes,  pudding, 
bread. 

Supper:       Bread  and  butter,  milk,  apple  sauce. 

Monday 

Breakfast:  Oatmeal   with   milk    and    sugar,    bread, 

cereal  coffee  or  milk. 
Dinner:        Beef  soup  with  vegetables,  cold  slaw  (?), 

bread. 
Supper:        Bread  and  butter,  milk,  prune  sauce. 

Tuesday 

Breakfast :  Salt  fish  and  cream,  bread,  cereal  coffee 

or  milk. 
Dinner:        Baked  beans,  bread,  pickles,  pudding. 
Supper:        Bread,  gingerbread,  cheese,  milk. 

Wednesday 

Breakfast :  Corn  cake  and  butter,  cereal  coffee  or 

milk. 
Dinner:        Corned  beef  and  vegetables,  bread. 
Supper:        Bread,  apple  butter,  milk. 


FOOD    FOR   CRIMINALS    AND    PAUPERS  6/ 

Thursday 

Breakfast:  Oatmeal    and    molasses,    bread,    cereal 

coffee  or  milk. 
Dinner:        Beef  stew,  bread,  pudding. 
Supper:       Bread  and  butter,  sugar-buns,  milk. 

Friday 

Breakfast:  Corn  mush  with  milk  and  sugar,  bread, 

cereal  coffee  or  milk. 
Dinner:        Fish  chowder  or  baked  fish  and  potatoes, 

bread. 
Supper:       Bread  and  butter,  baked  apples,  milk. 

Saturday 

Breakfast :  Hash,  bread,  cereal  coffee  or  milk. 
Dinner:       Pea  or  bean  soup,  bread,  stewed  fruit. 
Supper:       Bread  and  butter,  cookies,  milk. 

General  Directions 

Breakfast:  When  it  can  be  done  with  economy,  sub- 
stitute hash  or  stew. 

Dinner:  For  puddings,  use  rice  (with  or  without 
raisins),  bread  and  apple,  tapioca,  corn- 
starch, bread,  etc.,  making  variety. 

Supper:       Use  Graham  bread  occasionally. 

INSPECTION  OF  AN  INSTITUTION  AS  TO  FOOD-SUPPLY 

I.  If  for  well  persons,  note  appearance  of  inmates: 
character  of  flesh  (solid  and  muscular  or  flabby); 


68  THE   COST   OF    FOOD 

color,  if  normal;  complexion,  if  clear  and  normal,  or 
blotched  and  ''  broken  out ''  on  lips,  ears,  or  eyes. 
Note  eyes,  if  clear  and  alert,  or  dull  and  heavy;  note 
movements,  if  full  and  vigorous,  or  languid;  watch 
a  meal  to  see  if  the  food  is  relished  or  rejected.  If 
complaints,  see  what  they  are.  If  a  hospital,  the  con- 
dition of  the  patients  is  not  so  good  a  guide,  except 
as  to  relish  and  gain  in  condition.  This  is  difficult 
to  get  at,  and  considerable  diplomacy  is  often  needed 
to  accomplish  anything  like  a  fair  judgment. 

2.  Inspect  the  kitchen  just  before  the  food  is 
served.  Do  this  for  the  three  meals,  and  stay  during 
the  serving  and  note  what  comes  away  uneaten. 

Points:  (a)  thorough  cooking; 

(ft)  cleanly  condition  of  utensils ; 
(c)  attractive  serving  (hot  or  cold); 
{d)  note  indigestible  gravies  or  sauces ; 
{e)     ''     quantity;  is  it  sufficient? 
{f)     "     method  of  cooking. 

3.  Larder  and  storehouse:  Note  quality  and  clean- 
liness, especially  variety. 

4.  Personnel:  Are  the  employees  interested  to  do 
the  best  they  know  how?  Are  they  intelligent?  Are 
they  teachable? 

5.  Cost:  Is  it  excessive?  Can  equally  nutritious 
and  attractive  fare  be  served  for  less  money? 


FOOD    FOR    CRIMINALS   AND    PAUPERS 


69 


TABLE  VII 


DIETARY    OF    THREE    INSTITUTIONS    FURNISHED    FROM 
THE    SAME    MARKET 


Number 

Cost  (cents)  per  person  daily. 

*  Proteid         "         *'  ** 

*  Fat 

*  Carbohydrates     "  ** 

*  Calories                  *'          *' 
Oz.  per  person 

Distributed  as  follows  : 
Meat  and  fish  (fresh  and  salt) 

Eggs 

Cheese 

Milk 

Butter  and  lard 

Flour,    cornmeal,  crackers. . . 

Oatmeal,  hominy,  rice 

Peas,  beans 

Tapioca,  sage,  corn-starch... 

Sugar 

Dried  fruits 

Potatoes 

Fresh  vegetables 

Apples 

Molasses 


A 

Inmates. 


1754 

7.34 

122 

69 

624 

3700 

65.58 

10.23 
.01 


2.84 


24.06 

.34 

1.34 


.03 


15.64 
6.33 


4.76 


A2      % 
Officers. 


107 
40.6 


157-24 

45.30 

1.03 

.20 

23-33 

1.78 

8.80 

.52 

.76 

•03 

3.90 

.29 

29.85 

39-33 

.96 

1. 16 


B 

Inmates 
and  Em- 
ployees 


375 
12.9 

IIO.O 

114. 0 

449.0 
3327 
75.52 

10.80 
.86 
.28 

16.20 
1.80 

12.20 

1.20 

.70 

.20 

3-05 

•31 

13.50 

12.87 
.85 
.70 


C 

Inmates 
and  Em- 
ployees. 


194 

18.8 

138.0 

180.0 

471.0 

417I.O 

94.71 

17.21 
1.06 

-35 
28.46 

1.77 

13.54 

1.72 

.78 

-34 

3.53 

.76 

12.02 

19.96 

.21 


*  No  data  given  as  to  number  of  guests  in  column  A*. 


VIII 

FOOD  FOR  THE  PERSON  IN  A  HOSPITAL 

"Just  as  metal  has  to  be  extracted  from  the  ore  before  it  is 
any  use,  so  by  the  process  of  digestion  the  nutritive  constituents 
have  to  be  extracted  from  a  food  before  they  can  be  absorbed.** 

— Maly. 

"  The  careful  preparation  of  food  is  now  recognized  to  be  of 
vital  importance  to  an  invalid  and  a  valuable  assistance,  in  many 
cases,  to  the  physician  in  hastening  the  recovery  of  a  patient." 

— Helena  V.  Sachse. 

While  we  may  blame  a  well  man  for  setting  his 
appetite  above  his  intellectual  or  business  interests, 
we  are  obliged  to  humor  a  sick  man  as  far  as  his 
physical  welfare  will  permit. 

The  nutritive  constituents  are  extracted  from  or- 
dinary food  only  when  it  is  mingled  with  and  saturated 
by  the  digestive  juices  sent  out  from  the  various 
glands  in  response  to  the  stimulus  of  odor,  flavor, 
and  texture,  real  or  imagined.  If  the  juices  do  not 
flow,  then  the  food  remains  inert  and  no  real  ''  feed- 
ing "  can  take  place.  Predigested  foods  are  offered 
in  this  emergency,  but  belong  to  the  dispensary 
rather  than  to  the  kitchen. 

It  is  to  most  persons  a  shock  and  an  excitement 

70 


FOOD    FOR    THE    PERSON    IN    A    HOSPITAL  /I 

to  find  themselves  in  such  an  unaccustomed  place 
as  a  hospital  and  with  so  many  other  people,  and  the 
first  point  to  be  gained  is  to  make  them  comfortable 
and  contented ;  the  second,  to  give  them  suitable 
food,  presented  in  such  a  way  that  they  will  relish  it. 
The  ''  relish  "  goes  a  long  way  toward  making  the 
food  ''  suitable."  A  contented  frame  of  mind  and  faith 
in  the  nurse  and  in  what  she  brings  increases  the 
secretions  and  relaxes  the  nervous  tension,  so  that 
the  energy  of  the  body  may  be  given  to  digesting 
and  assimilating  the  food. 

Therefore,  before  considering  what  to  give  the 
patients  who  are  conscious,  a  few  words  on  how  to 
serve  it  are  appropriate: 

First,  that  food  which  is  served  hot  should  be  hot 
and  not  lukewarm;  that  which  is  to  be  cold  should 
be  cold.  If  the  hospital  appliances  are  not  favorable 
to  this,  then  they  must  be  so  arranged  as  to  admit 
of  it  before  any  success  can  be  hoped  for. 

Too  large  portions  should  not  be  given  at  once,  as 
an  appetite  for  more  will  tend  to  cause  the  patient 
to  thoroughly  digest  what  is  taken;  and  it  must  al- 
ways be  borne  in  mind  that  it  is  not  what  is  eaten 
but  what  is  assimilated  that  nourishes  the  body,  and 
it  is  more  important  to  bear  this  in  mind  in  a  hos- 
pital than  anywhere  else,  since  exercise  and  dis- 
tracting occupation  are  wanting  and  the  action  of 
the  system  is  apt  to  be  sluggish. 


72  THE    COST   OF    FOOD 

Novelty  in  food  does  not  commend  itself  to  people 
who  have  had  little  variety  in  their  lives;  they  relish 
best  that  to  which  they  have  been  accustomed. 
Neatness  and  attractiveness  go  a  long  way  toward 
making  food  palatable;  therefore,  this  aid  should  be 
used  as  far  as  possible,  especially  since  ways  of  serv- 
ing can  be  varied  more  readily  than  the  articles  of 
diet.  A  few^  pretty  dishes  to  carry  to  those  to  whom 
food  in  thick  crockery  would  be  utterly  repellent 
serve  to  distract  attention  from  the  act  of  eating. 
Even  if  there  are  only  a  few  such  dishes  in  the  ward, 
it  will  be  an  occupation  for  the  patient  to  guess  to 
whom  they  will  be  given  at  any  particular  meal. 

Of  course,  this  takes  time  and  thought,  and  a  hos- 
pital nurse  is  often  overworked;  yet,  if  she  real- 
izes the  great  importance  of  this  part  of  the  means 
used  for  recovery,  she  will  find  time  for  it.  She  will 
soon  learn  to  whom  it  will  make  a  difiference  and  to 
whom  it  is  a  waste  of  time  to  offer  such  attentions. 


DIET  IN   GENERAL 

Surgical  patients  and  those  who  are  simply  to  be 
''  fed  well  "  should  have  good  and  sufficient  food, 
and  that  which  is  easily  digested.  Since  they  are  no 
longer  at  work  in  the  open  air,  even  strong  men 
should  not  be  fed  upon  fried  pork  and  heavy  dump- 
lings, but  they  miss  the  accustomed  flavor  of  hearty 


FOOD   FOR   THE   PERSON   IN    A   HOSPITAL  73 

food,  and  bacon  may  be  given  occasionally,  and, 
twice  a  day,  meat  or  fish  of  some  kind  with  potato, 
bread,  and  butter.  These  four  articles — meat,  potato, 
bread,  and  butter — make  up  the  diet  of  a  large  part 
of  hospital  patients  in  the  common  wards.  In  their 
own  homes  they  are  not  accustomed  to  soups,  and 
it  is  a  part  of  their  education  while  they  are  in  the 
hospital  to  teach  them  the  value  of  food  so  prepared. 
If  they  find  themselves  comfortable  and  growing 
stronger  on  such  diet,  they  will  believe  in  it.  No 
better  school  of  diet  could  be  found  than  an  intelli- 
gently managed  hospital.  Even  though  the  patient 
stays  but  a  week  or  ten  days,  he  should  have  gained 
something  which  will  benefit  him  in  his  after  life, 
for  cleanliness  and  diet  must  always  be  insisted  upon. 
It  is,  therefore,  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the 
nurses  should  be  as  perfectly  trained  in  the  serving 
of  food  and  in  the  general  principles  of  diet  as  in  any 
other  portion  of  their  duties,  for  no  medicine  or 
disinfection  can  take  the  place  of  nutritious  food  as 
a  factor  in  recovery. 

Instead  of  combating  the  whims  of  patients  or 
yielding  weakly  to  them,  a  knowledge  of  what  is  best 
in  general  practice,  and  experience  of  how  to  ''  ad- 
minister ''  food,  should  be  shared  by  house  officers 
and  nurses.     There  are  at  least  five  requirements : 

First.  Production  of  good  flavor  and  odor.  Here 
again  is  the  difficulty  of  dealing  with  a  mass  of  peo- 


74  THE    COST   OF    FOOD 

pie,  for  while  garlic  is  dear  to  one  man's  soul, 
another  loathes  it.  Certain  carefully  prepared  com- 
binations must  be  decided  upon,  and  in  special  cases 
the  coveted  flavor  added  after  the  food  reaches  the 
wards.  The  success  of  certain  of  the  New  England 
Kitchen  dishes  shows  that  this  is  possible,  though 
only  after  careful  study  and  experiment.  All  strong 
odors  should  be  avoided — those  which  may  reach 
from  one  bed  to  another.  Irritating  spices,  such  as 
solid  particles  of  pepper,  cloves,  etc.,  should  not  be 
used  in  food  for  the  wards. 

Second.  Each  article  should  be  prepared  in  such  a 
way  as  to  make  Httle  tax  upon  the  digestive  system, 
because  digestion  uses  up  energy  which  should  go 
to  recuperation.  This  is  a  most  important  point. 
The  human  body  can  at  best  produce  only  a  limited 
amount  of  energy,  and  if  an  undue  portion  of  this  is 
consumed  in  preparing  the  food  taken  for  absorption, 
there  is  less  left  for  the  process  of  repair  which,  in  the 
hospital,  uses  the  surplus  otherwise  given  to  work. 
This  surplus  energy  is  small  at  most,  probably  only 
about  one-third  the  total  of  which  the  body  at  its  best 
is  capable  of  producing. 

As  the  flow  of  blood  which  carries  the  nutritive 
material  to  all  parts  of  the  body  is  usually  sluggish, 
because  of  the  passive  repose  of  the  patient,  it  is 
essential  that  it  should  be  sufficiently  rich  in  nutritive 
value.     Yet  so  sensitive  are  the  living  cells  that  they 


FOOD    FOR    THE    PERSON    IN    A    HOSPITAL  75 

are  paralyzed  by  too  great  a  concentration,  just  as  a 
plant  or  tree  is  killed  by  too  much  fertilizer.  For 
this  reason  food  should  be  given  in  small  quantities 
at  frequent  intervals,  when  it  is  so  prepared  as  to  go 
at  once  into  the  circulation.  Eggs  and  soup  do  not 
''  stand  by  "  as  does  the  hearty  diet  of  the  well  person. 

Third.  If  a  food  properly  prepared  from  cheap 
material  can  replace  an  expensive  one,  it  should  be 
used,  since  more  people  can  have  the  benefit  of  care 
when  the  expense  per  capita  is  low  in  any  public  in- 
stitution, and  since  principles  of  sound  economy 
should  rule  in  the  use  of  trust  funds. 

Fourth.  As  a  rule,  it  is  the  heat-giving  and  energy- 
giving  food  which  is  most  required,  with  that  which 
spares  the  precious  albuminous  tissue,  rather  than 
so  much  albumen  as  is  often  given.  In  some  cases 
of  loss  of  blood  or  lack  of  flesh,  rapid  utilization  of 
nitrogen  is  desirable,  and  then  eggs  and  steak  may 
be  needed  as  a  process  of  stufifing.  This  is  more  or 
less  dangerous  on  account  of  the  extra  work  given 
to  such  organs  as  the  kidneys,  and  the  production  of 
heat  and  energy  in  this  way  is  wasteful  compared 
with  that  produced  by  legitimate  foods. 

Fifth.  Soups,  broths,  fruit  soups,  sweetened  drinks, 
which  are  ninety-five  to  ninety-eight  per  cent  of 
water;  fruits,  jellies,  and  porridge,  which  are  eighty 
to  ninety  per  cent  water,  should  form  the  main  diet 
of  many  hospital  patients  for  several  reasons: 


76  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

(a)  Each  mouthful  contains  so  little  food  that  it 
can  be  readily  mixed  with  the  natural  juices  before 
more  is  taken,  and  so  the  nutrition  in  the  first  spoon- 
ful may  penetrate  to  the  finger-ends  and  encourage 
and  stimulate  the  nerves  to  call  for  more  even  before 
the  last  spoonful  is  taken.  This  is  often  the  secret 
of  increasing  a  patient's  appetite. 

(b)  The  heat  imparted  to  the  contents  of  the 
stomach,  while  it  is  not  sufficient  to  affect  the  whole 
body  to  any  great  degree,  is  stimulating  to  diges- 
tion. 

(r)  In  most  cases  recovery  is  hastened  by  the  rapid 
removal  of  the  accumulation  of  waste  material.  For 
this  the  blood  must  be  dilute  in  order  to  take  up 
more  substances  in  its  passage.  If  it  is  a  saturated 
solution  it  cannot  do  this. 

(rf)  The  more  or  less  feeble  and  sluggish  cells  can- 
not take  as  much  nourishment  at  a  time  as  active 
ones  do,  and  the  solution  by  which  they  are  sur- 
rounded should  be  dilute. 

(e)  To  keep  up  the  water  lost  by  evaporation  and 
otherwise,  and  to  furnish  enough  so  that  there  will 
be  an  excess  available  for  sufficient  evaporation  to  keep 
the  surface  cool,  this  is  often  the  best  antipyretic. 

{f)  It  is  often  easier  to  administer  nourishment  in 
liquid  form. 


FOOD    FOR   THE    PERSON    IN   A    HOSPITAL  ^^ 

HOUSE-DIET  OR  NORMAL  DIET 

The  foregoing  will  enable  us  to  consider  a  bill  of 
fare  for  the  house  in  general.  Since  economy  is  im- 
perative, as  many  of  the  dishes  as  possible,  should  be 
cooked  in  bulk,  enough  for  the  whole  house,  leaving 
the  extras  to  be  given  for  each  of  the  five  tables 
usual  in  a  hospital,  of  which  the  patients'  is  the  most  im- 
portant. 

The  officers'  table  needs  both  easily  digested  and 
hearty  food,  since  hard  work,  long  hours,  and  anxiety 
are  making  a  drain  upon  the  system,  while  coolness 
and  nerve  are  essential;  therefore  food  should  not  be 
irritating  or  indigestible.  The  nurses'  table  must 
meet  the  same  requirements.  The  employees,  on  the 
other  hand,  have  hard  work  and  should  have  hearty 
food  and  that  which  will  stand  by,  but  it  must  be 
consistent  with  strict  economy. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  full  house-diet,  ''  nor- 
mal diet,"  is  the  convalescent  diet,  for  those  who  are 
sufficiently  recovered  from  acute  disease  to  take 
normal  diet  with  the  elimination  of  the  hearty  dishes, 
but  who  a;re  not  able  to  take  full  quantity.  This 
should  be  made  up  from  such  dishes  on  the  list  for 
the  day  as  can  be  taken  from  the  normal  diet  and 
supplemented  from  the  special  list  which  is  posted 
daily  as  prepared.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  by  both 
house  officers  and  nurses  that  a  separate  order  means 


yS  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

increased  cost,  not  so  much  in  the  article  of  food  or- 
dered, but  in  the  time  of  the  high-class  service 
needed  to  prepare  it  properly,  and  in  the  interruption 
of  the  general  movement  of  the  service. 

In  hospitals  the  cost  of  food  is  a  most  important 
part  of  the  total  expense,  and  it  shouM  be  most  care- 
fully regulated.  That  is,  for  the  patients  to  whom 
food  is  life  and  for  whom  aversion  to  food  means 
death,  no  expense  should  be  grudged.  Cream, 
eggs,  beef-juice,  chops,  anything  really  needful 
should  be  supplied,  but  for  those  patients  to  whom 
corned  beef  and  cabbage  represent  luxury,  it  is  not 
necessary  to  stimulate  an  artificial  appetite.  Neither 
is  it  necessary  that  the  strong  and  hearty  attendant 
should  have  the  fruit  and  delicacies  given  to  paying 
private  patients.  There  is  a  lack  of  moral  sense  in 
the  community  which  permits  the  use  of  trust  funds 
for  very  different  purposes  from  those  for  which  they 
were  devised. 

When  one  recalls  the  early  struggles  and  self- 
denial  of  the  man  or  woman  who  has  left  $10,000  or 
$50,000  to  aid  in  the  relief  of  suffering  humanity,  it 
is  not  with  entire  equanimity  that  the  expert  called 
in  to  examine  the  dietary  finds  that  23.6  oz.  of  meat, 
37  oz.  milk,  20  oz.  potatoes,  2.6  oz.  butter  and  5  oz. 
of  sugar  are  on  record  as  being  purchased  which, 
with  other  things,  bring  up  the  cost  to  50  cents  or 
over;  nearly  twice  the  amount  and  cost  needful. 


FOOD    FOR    THE    PERSON    IN    A    HOSPITAL  79 

New  England  thrift  is  passing  with  the  disappear- 
ance of  the  careful  housewife,  and  a  great  impatience 
of  any  restraint  in  food  is  evident  on  all  sides.  So 
that  authorities  cannot  be  held  especially  blame- 
worthy for  an  increase  in  the  cost  of  carrying  on  this 
side  of  the  work,  any  more  than  they  may  be  justly 
criticised  for  spending  thousands  for  modern  sur- 
gical equipment;  one  room  to-day  costs  as  much  as 
a  whole  hospital  fifty  years  ago.  What  authorities 
should  do  is  to  put  the  same  grade  of  intelligence  at 
work  on  the  food  side  as  on  the  medical  and  surgical 
side,  and  to  be  sure  that  a  fair  equivalent  is  obtained 
for  the  trust  funds  expended.  In  the  above  case,  it 
is  quite  impossible  that  such  large  amounts,  together 
with  the  other  very  liberal  supplies,  could  have  been 
eaten  w^ith  safety  by  the  inmates,  some  of  whom 
would  have  been  made  ill  by  half  the  quantities. 
All  large  estabUshments  have  leaks  which  need  con- 
stant attention. 

There  is  one  feature  of  modern  hospital  develop- 
ment which  demands  careful  consideration.  While 
we  are  crowding  well  people  in  great  numbers  into 
hotels  and  apartment-houses,  while  large  restaurants 
and  dining-rooms  are  increasing,  the  successful  treat- 
ment of  the  sick  and  insane  is  demanding  more  and 
more  isolation  in  small  groups  and  even  individual 
service.  This  is  far  more  expensive,  since  the  waste 
is  necessarily  greater  and  since  the  individual  likes 


So  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

are  catered  to  to  a  greater  extent.  Again,  pay-wards 
and  cottages  are  now  connected  with  nearly  all  in- 
stitutions, and  in  these,  patients  demand  the  same  sort 
of  food  as  that  to  which  they  have  been  accustomed. 
This  fact,  probably  more  than  any  other,'  has  led  to 
the  increased  cost  of  food.  If  it  seemed  necessary  to 
employ  a  chef  to  cook  for  these,  why  should  not 
nurses  and  house  doctors  have  the  same  quality? 
When  one  sees  and  handles  tempting  food,  one  feels 
aggrieved  if  forbidden  to  taste.  Hence  it  is  not  un- 
natural that  employees  should  use  the  top  of  the 
eight-quart  can  of  milk  for  their  own  cofTee,  or  take 
toll  of  the  fruit  and  delicacies  going  past  them.  Un- 
less they  can  be  made  to  feel  that  it  is  dishonest,  they 
will  continue  to  do  it  if  the  stores  are  not  under  lock 
and  key. 

A  small  establishment  is  in  this  way  more  expen- 
sive, because  it  is  not  possible,  as  it  is  in  a  large  one, 
to  have  a  separate  table  for  the  different  grades. 

For  example,  in  an  institution  with  looo  patients 
there  will  be  four  grades  of  employees: 

1st.  House  officers  and  heads  of  departments. 

2d.  Nurses  and  second  assistants. 

3d.  Engineers,  workmen,  etc. 

4th.  Scrub-women,  janitors,  choremen,  etc. 

Each  of  these  grades  can  have  a  separate  eating- 
room  with  different  hours  and  bill  of  fare  costing  15, 
25,  30,  and  50  cents  per  day,  or  20,  .30,  35,  and  7s 


FOOD    FOR    THE    PERSON    IN    A    HOSPITAL  8 1 

cents  per  day,  as  the  case  may  be,  but  the  average 
will  not  be  above  20  or  30  cents. 

In  a  small  hospital  with  the  cottage  system,  where 
all  have  the  same  food,  the  expense  will  probably  be 
ten  cents  per  capita  higher. 

The  only  thing  for  the  governing  head  of  an  in- 
stitution to  do  is  to  have  its  accounts  so  kept  that 
he  can  study  its  own  special  conditions  and  decide 
what,  all  things  considered,  it  is  best  to  do,  and  then 
to  give  orders  to  have  it  strictly  carried  out.  In  one 
case,  $12,000  was  saved  in  a  year  by  this  means.  A 
little  relaxing  of  the  strictness,  however,  in  deference 
to  the  common  demand  soon  allowed  the  expense  to 
creep  back. 

In  the  present  transition  stage  from  the  old 
to  the  new,  culinary  and  housekeeping  manage- 
ment is  in  much  the  same  condition  in  households 
large  and  small.  Neither  the  apparatus  nor  the  help- 
ers are  suitable  and  adapted  to  the  work  they  should 
do  to  bring  this  department  up  to  the  standard  of 
the  best  modern  equipment.  Here  is  a  field  for  in- 
vention and  organization  open  to  women  with  busi- 
ness training.    Will  they  take  advantage  of  it? 

The  same  struggle  is  going  on  in  schools  and  col- 
leges— a  struggle  caused  by  the  decided  change  in 
tastes  and  habits  of  the  people  without  a  correspond- 
ing change  in  the  means  of  meeting  them.  Every- 
where improvements  are  made  in  building;  labora- 


82  THE   COST   OF   FOOD 

tories  are  added,  libraries  are  put  up,  lecture-halls 
are  better  lighted  and  heated,  and  some  feeble  at- 
tempts are  made  to  ventilate  them.  The  institution 
is  lauded  as  being  up  to  date.  The  last  place  to  feel 
this  wave  of  progress  is  the  culinary  department. 
Old  worn-out  ranges,  low  unventilated  kitchens, 
grease-soaked  sinks  and  tables  are  retained. 

When  the  therapeutic  value  of  food  is  more  fully 
recognized,  there  will  be  greater  willingness  to 
authorize  the  expense  required  in  providing  and  pre- 
paring the  best.  If  the  surest  means  of  securing  im- 
munity from  attacks  of  disease  is  well-nourished  tis- 
sues, then  the  best  handmaid  of  medicine  is  that 
nourishment  which  will  be  accepted  by  the  tissues, 
and  thus  aid  in  vanquishing  the  enemy  which  has  al- 
ready a  foothold.  The  members  of  the  medical  pro- 
fession have  yet  to  appreciate  to  the  full  what  the 
scientific  cook  could  do  for  them.  The  difficulty  lies 
with  the  opinions  of  the  general  public,  as  Mrs. 
Campbell  *  says: 

"  It  is  always  easier,  even  for  otherwise  intelli- 
gent folk,  to  swallow  something  from  a  bottle  or 
box  than  to  obey  natural  law.  When  old  Plum's 
brother  Darius  died,  they  flocked  in  over  the  hills  to 
the  funeral,  and  one  of  the  cousins  asked  what  Darius 
had  died  of,  and  Aunt  Prissy,  who  had  provided  him 

*The   Linborough   Sanitarium. 


FOOD    FOR   THE   PERSON   IN   A    HOSPITAL  83 

pie  three  times  a  day  for  forty-five  years,  made  the 
reply,  *  Darius  died  because  his  digeesters  was  all 
wore  out.'     And  again  she  says : 

"  I  can  study  degenerates  right  here — that  is  what 
you  are  all  at,  I  believe;  a  population  that  has  chosen 
patent  medicine  instead  of  common  sense,  all  the  dis- 
eases born  of  old  English  obstinacy  and  New  Eng- 
land folly." 

To  adapt  the  food  to  the  conditions  of  environment 
is  to  go  a  long  way  toward  conquering  fate. 

To  recognize  the  essentially  animal  character  of 
the  human  body,  while  not  ignoring  the  temporary 
power  of  the  mind  over  matter,  is  essential  to  a  sound 
therapy  of  food. 


IX 


FOOD  FOR  MIDDLE  LIFE  AND  OLD  AGE 

"  Discerne  of  the  coming  on  of  yeares,  and  thinke  not  to  doe 
the  same  things  still,  for  age  will  not  be  defied." — Bacon. 

If  we  agree  to  the  definition  of  food  given  on 
page  13,  we  shall  be  prepared  to  accept  the  state- 
ment that  when  the  enthusiasm  of  youth  abates  and 
the  acj:ive  movements  decrease;  when  we  allow  the 
children  to  go  up-stairs  for  a  forgotten  handker- 
chief; when  we  contentedly  sit  on  the  piazza  and  see 
the  young  people  start  off  to  the  mountain  or  the 
lake,  we  are  not  in  a  condition  to  utilize  the  same 
amounts  of  food  as  when  we  were  younger  and  more 
restless. 

Appetite  usually  outstays  physiological  need,  and 
when  the  art  of  the  cook  adds  flavor  and  daintiness 
of  serving  to  the  food,  the  danger  is  tenfold.  Under 
the  present  condition  of  abundance  of  food  and  of 
money  to  spend,  more  middle-aged  persons  eat  too 
much  than  too  little;  eat  too  concentrated  food  and 
drink  too  little  water. 

A  list  kept  for  some  years  of  persons  of  fifty  to 

sixty  dying  suddenly  is  full  of  cases  like  the  follow- 

84 


FOOD    FOR    MIDDLE    LIFE   AND   OLD    AGE  85 

ing:  "  He  seemed  to  be  in  ordinary  health  during 
the  forenoon,  and  at  noon  lunched  heartily  in  the 
State  House  Cafe;  at  1.30  he  complained  of  not  feel- 
ing well.  ...  At  2.30  he  was  dead." 

The  case  of  a  well-known  and  favorite  author  was 
reported  thus:  "  At  noon  to-day  he  attended  a  lunch- 
eon to  bid  farewell  to  some  friends  about  to  leave 
for  the  Mediterranean.  He  was  cheerful  and  gave 
no  indication  of  illness.  After  the  luncheon  he  started 
on  a  walk.  .  .  .  He  felt  ill,  asked  leave  to  lie  down  at 
a  house,  and  was  found  dead  in  a  few  minutes." 

The  reporter  never  seems  to  connect  cause  and 
efifect. 

The  mere  number  of  years  is  not  so  important  as 
the  physiological  age  of  the  person,  if  we  may  so  ex- 
press it.  Whenever,  from  any  cause,  the  individual 
ceases  to  eliminate  the  excess  and  begins  to  store  up 
substance,  it  is  time  to  take  precautions  lest  the 
strain  cause  a  weakness  in  some  organ  or  tissue. 
Overwork  bears  the  blame  for  the  breakdowns  so 
common.  Overwork  is  almost  impossible  to  the 
well-nourished  person.  The  well-fed,  constantly 
driven  horse  turns  back  one  ear  at  the  snap  of  the 
whip.  The  brain  is  the  most  sensitive  of  all  organs 
to  the  poison  of  imperfectly  digested  food  or  inflamed 
tissues.  For  modern  science  makes  it  clear  that  it  is 
not  only  possible  but  probable  that  decompositions 
may  easily  go  on  in  the  body  which  yield  more  or 


86  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

less  toxic  substances  to  the  circulating  blood.  These 
substances  do  not  necessarily  kill;  like  extracted 
alkaloids,  they  may  stimulate  the  nervous  action  and 
stimulate  beyond  the  power  of  nutrition.  Wakeful- 
ness, anxiousness,  sleeplessness  may  all  be  caused  by 
mal-nutrition  arising  from  imperfect  assimilation  of 
abundant  food-materials.  Digestion  in  its  correct 
sense  only  renders  the  food  absorbable.  If  this  pre- 
pared food  cannot  be  taken  by  the  tissues,  it  may  un- 
dergo decomposition  and  thus  become  a  source  of 
danger.  The  mature  person  is  not  dependent  upon 
food  eaten  to-day  for  to-day's  strength.  It  is  yester- 
day's or  last  week  s  meal  which  is  held  in  reserve. 

The  warnings  of  nature  pass  unheeded,  because 
the  individual  is  deaf  and  blind  to  them,  having 
grown  up  with  the  firm  belief  that  it  makes  no  differ- 
ence what,  when,  or  where  he  eats.  Because  he  still 
takes  pleasure  in  his  food,  he  dismisses  the  physician 
whom  he  has  called  in  to  prescribe  for  his  stiff  joints 
or  irregular  heart.  I  well  remember  with  what  as- 
tonishment I  made  the  discovery  that  a  fancied 
heart-disease  which  made  climbing  stairs  distressful 
disappeared  before  a  more  abstemious  diet,  and  was, 
therefore,  not  a  sign  of  breaking  up  at  fifty — a  cor- 
responding relief ! 

Personally,  I  believe  a  more  nearly  vegetarian 
diet  is  better,  partly  since  it  gives  less  chance  of 
those  inventions  of  some  diabolical  cook  in  past  ages, 


FOOD    FOR    MIDDFE    LIFE    AND    OLD    AGE  8/ 

handed  down  because  of  man's  sins,  the  rich  gravies 
and  sauces  with  which  so  many  meats  are  served,  and 
partly  since  the  kidneys  so  frequently  show  the 
strain  of  previous  excess  and  are  not  able  to  elimin- 
ate so  much  nitrogen.  Again,  when  food  of  vege- 
table origin  fails  to  digest,  it  does  not  give  rise  to 
toxines,  so  far  as  our  present  knowledge  goes.  By 
vegetable  food  most  persons  understand  white 
bread,  potatoes,  rice,  etc.,  all  starchy  foods.  These 
are  not  always  well  endured,  and  frequently  give  rise 
to  acid  conditions  which  result  in  various  inflamma- 
tory diseases.  Fruits,  especially  those  picked  green 
and  transported  in  cold  storage,  alTect  some  persons 
in  the  same  way.  There  are,  however,  abundant  ma- 
terials without  using  an  excess  of  these.  It  is  prob- 
able that  about  half  of  the  calories,  half  the  starch, 
and  two-thirds  the  proteid  that  he  could  well  utilize 
at  twenty-five  or  thirty,  may  fully  serve  a  person  at 
sixty. 

Investigations  by  Forster  show  the  following  proportions  for 

Proteid,  Fat,        Carbohydrates,        n^^^^;^c. 

Grams.         Grams.  Grams.  Calories. 

Old  men .,.  92  45  332  2149 

Old  women 80  49  266  1875 

As  the  taste  becomes  blunted  and  the  circulation 
slows  down,  smaller  quantities  may  well  be  supple- 
mented by  more  frequent  eating,  as  in  childhood, 
though  for  a  different  reason. 

It  would  probably  ansv^er  very  well  to  give  the 


88  THE   COST    OF    P^OOD 

old  and  the  young  the  same  kinds  of  food;  the  old, 
because  it  furnishes  heat  which  their  lack  of  motion 
makes  it  difficult  to  obtain;  the  young,  because  it  fur- 
nishes heat  to  use  up  in  mere  motion.  Both  are  fond 
of  sugar  and  of  fruit.  Eggs  are  good  for  both,  but 
rice  for  the  old  must  be  replaced  for  the  child  by 
whole  wheat  with  its  ash  and  phosphates.  To  the 
aged  is  permitted  the  use  of  stimulants  as  tea,  and 
of  blood-vessel  extenders  as  wine,  which  must  be  for- 
bidden to  the  young  because  they  not  only  do  not 
require  but  are  positively  injured  by  such  artificial 
excitants. 

Nine  out  of  ten  will  say  that  they  would  rather  live 
a  shorter  time  and  enjoy  the  years  they  have.  But 
the  pity  of  it  is,  they  do  not  enjoy  life;  they  become 
stiiT  in  the  joints  and  irritable  in  mind,  making  mis- 
takes in  family  life  and  in  business,  and  in  their  efforts 
to  rid  themselves  of  the  consequences  of  folly  become 
mentally  weakened  and  too  often  morally  so  blinded 
that  death  seems  preferable  to  life.  We  are  apt  to 
think  only  of  the  grosser  sins  as  causes  of  nervous 
depression  and  mental  breakdowns,  and  to  pass  by 
the  more  common  sins  against  the  fundamental  law 
of  life — nutrition. 

As  men  grow  wiser,  as  they  value  effective  human 
life  more  nearly  as  they  value  a  machine,  they  will 
banish  at  least  one-third  of  the  concoctions  with 
which  men  are  tempted  to  their  undoing.     Temper- 


FOOD   FOR    MIDDLE   LIFE   AND   OLD   AGE  89 

ance  in  eating  is  quite  as  necessary  as  in  anything 
else,  and  with  the  network  of  trolley-cars  jarring  our 
nerves  and  taking  from  us  the  need  of  exercise,  we 
are  in  danger  of  becoming  very  ineffective. 

A  great  trouble  is  that  we  are  not  willing  to  con- 
fess to  any  weakness.  We  can  eat  what  any  one  can. 
We  can  do  anything;  we  Americans  are  superior  to 
laws.  We  are  not  growing  old.  We  are  afraid  of 
thinking  about  our  food.  This  has  a  basis  .of  truth. 
Many  persons  cannot  themselves  hold  a  balance  of 
judgment  as  to  what  they  shall  eat  without  danger 
of  diverting  the  nervous  force  from  its  proper  work. 

But  the  greatest  danger  lies  in  the  creduUty  which 
still  lingers  in  the  pubHc  mind,  the  willingness  to  try 
any  quick  and  sure  remedy.  Quack  foods  are,  per- 
haps, more  pernicious  than  quack  medicines.  Pos- 
sibly the  one  is  the  corollary  of  the  other.  To  one 
who  knows  anything  of  the  physiological  laws  of 
nutrition,  it  is  disheartening  to  hear  a  group  of 
friends  in  middle  life,  who  are  gaining  in  weight  and 
beginning  to  suffer  twinges  of  rheumatism,  discuss- 
ing this  or  that  antiacid  medicine ;  a  special  mineral 
water.  Each  favors  a  sea  voyage  to  be  undertaken  at 
great  sacrifice,  when  the  remedy  is  clearly  just  a  little 
self-control,  a  passing  by  of  a  course  or  two,  an  absti- 
nence from  a  few  favorite  dishes. 


X 

DIETARIES  OR  KNOWN  AMOUNTS  OF  FOOD:    GEN- 
ERAL   PRINCIPLES    FOR    THE    GUIDANCE    OF 
THE  PURVEYOR 

"  What  strikes  us  rather  as  the  special  evil  of  the  generation 
is  an  increase  of  the  force  of  whim,  of  the  inclination;  that  is,  to 
gratify  impulse  without  reference  to  old  restraints  and  of  a  cer- 
tain reaction  against  goodness  because  the  value  placed  on  it  is 
seen  to  be  gathering  strength  .  .  .  the  almost  limitless  freedom 
which  money  in  large  amounts  can  give." — London  Spectator, 
July  1901. 

The  terms  diet  and  dietaries  are  used,  except  in 

Chapter  VIII,  in  the  sense  of  daily  fare  regulated  with 

reference  to  the  preservation  of  health,  and  not  with 

reference  to  the  restoration  of  health  once  lost.     In 

popular  thought,  the  latter  meaning  is  almost  always 

the  only  one.     If  one  diets,  it  is  because  he  is  ill ;  has 

transgressed  one  or  several  of  the  laws  of  nature  and 

must  be  punished.     Therefore  any  hint  of  attention 

to    dietetics    implies    putting    one's    inclinations    in 

prison,  implies  a  restriction  to  which,  as  free-born 

Americans,  we  cannot  submit.     This  use  of  these 

terms  must  be  driven  out  by  education  in  hygiene  in 

the  public  schools  and  by  the  public  press.     Health, 

and  not  convalescence,  must  be  the  goal  of  man's 

ambition. 

90 


DIETARIES    OR    KNOWN    AMOUNTS    OF    FOOD      9 1 

By  a  dietary,  then,  we  mean  that  amount  and  com- 
bination of  food  which  will  keep  the  given  person  or 
group  of  persons  in  full  health,  if,  to  begin  with,  they 
are  normal.  If  they  are  (as,  alas  !  too  many  are) 
abnormal  to  begin  with,  then  the  other  or  medicinal 
sense  has  to  be  mingled  with  our  thought.  The  re- 
striction in  the  following  chapters  is  put  upon  the 
cost  of  a  good  and  sufficient  dietary  mainly  for  well 
persons. 

This  item  is  dwelt  upon  because  so  large  a  propor- 
tion of  the  average  income  is  spent  for  food  and  so 
few  providers  keep  tally  of  the  cost  as  they  buy  from 
week  to  week;  that  is,  of  the  cost  of  the  nutritwe  por- 
tion of  the  food.  They  may  know  how  much  money 
they  spend,  but  not  what  they  obtain  for  it. 

We  base  our  estimates  on  what  is  known  as  a 
standard  dietary;  that  is,  the  amount  of  the  different 
foodstuffs  which  have  sufficed  for  various  races, 
families,  and  individuals  under  known  conditions. 

These  foodstuffs,  although  found  in  many  com- 
binations under  numerous  forms,  are  yet  very  few 
in  number  and  are  for  the  most  part  capable  of  ap- 
proximate estimation. 

In  each  land  there  are  half  a  dozen  foods  which 
may  be  substituted  for  as  many  known  by  different 
names  in  other  lands.  Food  synonyms,  they  might 
be  termed. 

But  many  combinations  of  two  or  more  are  more 


92  THE    COST    OF   FOOD 

easily  made  which  may  be  substituted  the  one  for  the 
other,  provided  only  that  change  of  food  is  not  made 
suddenly.  Acclimatization  consists  largely  in  modi- 
fication of  food  habits. 

In  practice  we  allow  about  ten  per  cent  for  waste 
in  the  body  through  non-assimilation,  and  if  there 
is  a  liberal  diet  with  much  choice  of  dishes,  ten  per 
cent  more  for  kitchen-  and  table-waste. 

For  example,  if  we  wish  to  be  sure  that  our  group 
of  students  really  have  one  hundred  grams  of  proteid 
or  of  fat  in  their  daily  food,  we  must  provide  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  grams  of  each. 

It  should  be  easy  for  any  one  to  make  out  a  die- 
tary from  Bulletin  No.  28,  U.  S.  Office  of  Experi- 
ment Stations,  for  any  given  cost.  That  is,  for  the 
raw  materials.  The  science  of  it — how  to  cook, 
flavor,  and  combine  them — there  is  the  field  for 
fancy,  for  art,  for  invention.  At  present  cooking  is 
an  art,  crude  and  variable,  and  scientific  accuracy 
cannot  be  demanded  of  it.  Hence  the  wide  margin 
which  must  be  allowed  for  spoiled  and  rejected  food. 

For  this  reason,  also,  no  definite  menu  can  be 
given  such  as  is  constantly  asked  for.  Because  it  is 
refused,  the  whole  subject  is  usually  relegated  to  the 
mental  dump-heap.  "  What  is  one  man's  meat  is  an- 
other man's  poison ''  is  yet  true,  and  also  that  one 
cook  can  make  into  delicious,  nutritious  dishes  what 
another  would  make  unfit  for  civilized  man. 


DIETARIES    OR    KiVOWN    AMOUNTS    OF    FOOD      93 

Only  the  raw  food-materials  can  be  treated  with 
any  degree  of  accuracy.  This  degree  is  surer,  within 
a  limited  range,  than  was  formerly  supposed. 
Analyses  of  various  food-materials  have  now  been 
made  so  abundantly  that  an  average  can  be  drawn 
sufficient  for  the  month  or  year.  One  day's  ration 
might  not  be  so  closely  calculated,  and  it  is  not  need- 
ful that  it  should  be.  These  analyses  are  now  at  the 
service  of  any  one  who  will  take  the  trouble  to  study 
them.  Until  we  have  on  all  sides  a  certain  familiarity 
with  these  exact  figures,  there  will  be  bandied  about 
from  household  magazine  to  newspaper  assertions 
of  facts  on  the  one  side  and  denials  on  the  other 
which  destroy  the  confidence  of  the  public  in  either. 
For  instance,  in  Boston's  most  respectable  daily 
(The  Advertiser)  of  August  9,  1901,  there  appeared 
a  heading:  ''  Feeding  Four  on  25  Cents  a  Day." 
The  article  began: 

*'  The  usual  run  of  papers  in  cooking-magazines 
are  good,  and  many  of  them  are  excellent,  giving 
much-needed  information,  useful  advice,  and  timely 
facts,  but  the  average  paper  on  economy  in  feeding 
a  household  i?  misleading  and  sometimes  sadly  inac- 
curate. 

"  For  instance,  in  a  leading  household  magazine 
appeared  an  article  of  this  sort,  in  which,  among 
other  things,  it  was  stated  that  one  woman  said  it 
was  possible  to  feed  a  family  of  four  or  five,  health- 


94  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

fully  and  appetizingly  on  25  cents  a  day,  while  an- 
other said  she  could  not  set  an  ordinary  table  undei' 
50  cents  a  day.  Now  the  question  is,  could  the 
woman  who  thought  she  could  feed  four  or  five  on 
25  cents  a  day,  and  give  them  sufficient  food,  do 
so?  " 

I  do  not  know  what  the  original  article  did  say,  but 
it  is  probable  that  the  25  cents  per  day  was  for  one 
person,  not  for  the  four.  We  are  accustomed  to 
speak  of  the  lo-cent,  or  the  25-cent,  or  the  $i-a-day 
dietary,  meaning  the  expense  per  day  for  one  per- 
son. Here  the  need  for  exact  and  complete  state- 
ment is  evident.  The  newspaper  writer  w^as  quite 
correct  in  assuming  that  for  six  cents  per  day  per 
person  grain  mushes  must  make  the  bulk  of  the  food, 
for  our  lowest  allowable  sum  is  ten  cents  per  day  per 
person. 

The  article  goes  on: 

**  And  most  of  these  statements  won't  hold. 
Without  wishing  too  sharply  to  criticise  the  state- 
ments   of    Miss    ,    the    teacher    of    the    

Cooking-school,  it  is  impossible  to  accept  some  of 
her  statements.  She  said :  '  Three  of  the  students 
of  our  class  wxre  chosen  to  give  a  breakfast  at  grad- 
uation. We  were  allowed  $3  to  buy  the  materials, 
and  we  had  24  guests.  We  had  the  best  of  every- 
thing, and  it  cost  us  just  $2.80.  Here  is  the  menu 
we  served: 


DIETARIES    OR    KNOWN    AMOUNTS    OF    FOOD      95 

Strawberries  with  Cream. 

Hominy  with  Cream. 

Broiled  Shad  French-fried  Potatoes 

Sliced  Cucumbers  Rolls 

Cofifee. 

"  '  1 4-emember  strawberries  cost  25  cents  a  quart, 
and  we  required  three  quarts.  We  served  two  large 
shad,  and  $2.80  covered  the  breakfast,  including  the 
smallest  details.' 

*'  Here  it  is  not  the  cost  of  the  meal  that  awakens 

surprise,  but  one  of  the  items.     Miss  says 

that  24  guests,  and  presumably  the  three  students 
who  got  up  the  breakfast,  2y  in  all,  were  served  with 
three  quarts  of  strawberries.  Will  any  one  who  re- 
members what  a  quart  of  strawberries  shrinks  to  by 
the  time  the  berries  are  hulled  try  to  divide  it  into 
nine  portions,  and  say  if  the  result  constitutes  what 
any  one  could  conscientiously  term  a  helping  of 
strawberries?  '* 

Here  the  snapshot  of  the  daily-news  purveyor 
needs  correcting.  A  *'  quart ''  of  strawberries  such 
as  the  wTiter  had  in  mind  which  ''  shrinks,''  etc.,  pur- 
chased when  the  fruit  is  dear,  does  not  yield  much, 
if  any,  over  a  pint,  but  the  "  quart  "  of  selected  native 
berries  such  as  would  be  used  by  these  young  cooks 
at  this  time  of  year  would  measure  very  nearly  the 
estimated  quantity.  Six  portions  are  allowed  for  a 
quart  by  the  caterers,  and  in  a  case  like  this,  where 


96 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


economy  was  enjoined,  eight  portions  to  a  quart  was 
not  so  very  niggardly  after  all.  Just  for  the  amuse- 
ment of  it,  the  author  determined  the  quantities, 
mainly  according  to  Miss  Huntington's  "^  estimates 
and  the  food  values  of  the  menu  as  given.  The  re- 
sults, shown  in  the  accompanying  table,  are  most  in- 
structive and  completely  vindicate  this  class-work. 


TABLE   VII 

BREAKFAST    FOR    24    PERSONS 


Lb. 

Oz. 

Grms. 

Cost. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Cal. 

Strawberries,  3  quarts. . . 
Supar   ^i  lbs                .... 

5 

72 

2 
12 

4 

2264 
2038 

724 

2722 

105 

$0  7S 
.225 
.03 
.187 
.72 
.04 
.01 
.15 
.20 
•»5 
.12 
•"3 
•093 

20 

■46' 

18 

390 

3-2 

14 

27 
134 
130 
1.6 

138 
864 
438 
32.5 

372 

775 

Hominy 

Thin  cream,  3  cups 

Shad 

I 
z 
6 
4 

3537 
2246 
X460 

French-fried  Potatoes .... 
Fat 

1260 

Rolls,  3  doz.  home-made. 
Butter  for  fish  and  rolls. . 
Cucumbers 

4h 
3 

28s 
2.8 

285.0 

1620 
"28!6 

8160 

5382 

180 

12 

340 

CoflEce 

?2.8 

'"362" 

Sugar,  2  lbs.  4  oz 

432 
16.7 

1768 

Cream    iv  cuds         • 

9 

67 

730 

For  one  person 

$2,788 

778 

32.4 
33-3 

703     3839 
22.9    160 

28736 
1197 

The  standard  ration  ...   . 



-■»- 

So  that  the  three  little  cooks  could  have  made  a 
fair  breakfast  without  seriously  robbing  the  guests. 

Since  fat  and  starch  or  sugar  are  to  a  certain  ex- 
tent interchangeable,  the  slight  lack  in  fat  is,  in  our 
dietary,  made  up  in  carbohydrates,  and  since  an  exact 
division  is  neither  necessary  nor  desirable,  one  of  the 
other  meals  could  easily  remedy  any  deficiency. 

*  The  Dietary.     See  Bibliography. 


DIETARIES    OR    KNOWN    AMOUNTS    OF    FOOD      97 

This  particular  case  is  of  no  special  importance.  It 
is  given  in  detail  simply  because  it  illustrates  so  ad- 
mirably the  following  points,  which  the  author  wishes 
to  emphasize : 

1st.  Popular  disbelief  in  and  distrust  of  the  efforts 
made  to  teach  more  exact  methods  in  catering. 

2d.  P^ailure  on  the  part  of  the  teachers  to  bring 
their  methods  within  the  comprehension  of  the  aver- 
age reader. 

3d.  General  ignorance  of  the  nutritive  value  of 
food  materials  as  purchased. 

4th.  Common  neglect  of  the  element  of  waste  in 
preparation  and  in  assimilation. 

5th.  The  results  tabulated  furnish  an  illustration  of 
one  way  in  which  the  teaching  may  be  made  more 
practical. 


XI 

DIETARIES     COSTING     FROM     TEN     TO     FIFTEEN 
CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON 

*'  The  Golden  Rule  is  let  all  men's  dinners  be  according  to 
their  means." — Hayward. 

The  business-man  who  frequently  pays  one  dollar 
for  his  luncheon  and  two  dollars  for  his  dinner,  and 
who  knows  that  his  ow^n  table  costs  him  one  hun- 
dred dollars  a  month  for  a  family  of  three,  receives 
with  incredulity  the  statement  that  ten  cents  per 
person  per  day  will  give,  anywhere  in  America  within 
fifty  miles  of  a  railroad,  sufficient  nutrition  for  a 
wholesome  diet. 

The  woman  who  has  tried  to  cut  down  her  ex- 
penses by  saving  in  the  food-material  purchased 
sighs  and  shakes  her  head.  Her  dictum  is  final:  "  It 
cannot  be  done." 

And  yet  we  know  that  it  can  and  has  been  done; 
that  efficient  life  can  be  maintained  in  the  case  of 
many  persons  for  this  sum.  It  is  the  will  to  do  it  and 
the  motive,  which  sustains  the  will,  that  is  neces- 
sary. 

Appetite  is  largely  a  matter  of  habit  and  of  mental 

98 


An  examination  of  the  same  markets  for  the 
same  kind  of  foodstuffs  showed  that  in  August, 
1910,  the  15  and  25  cent  per  day  per  person 
dietary  given  on  pages  109,  no,  132,  would 
cost  18  and  27  cents  respectively.  This  accords 
with  all  other  recent  investigations,  namely, 
that  the  really  staple  articles  bought  with 
time  and  care  plus  knowledge  are  not  so 
greatly  increased  in  cost.  When  the  question 
is  of  the  $1.00  a  day  dietary  the  cost  to-day 
is  increased  to  at  least  $1.50  and  it  may  easily 
go  to  $2.00.  The  common  food  materials  like 
corn  meal,  rice,  macaroni,  dried  fruits,  flank 
and  T  bone,  are  not  used.  They  are  consid- 
ered too  common  and  therefore  '^unclean.'' 

It  was  intended  to  recalculate  the  dietaries, 
but  it  seems  not  necessary  in  view  of  all  the 
conditions  revealed  in  recent  investigations. 


DIETARIES    COSTING    TEN    TO    FIFTEEN    CENTS        99 

orientation.  The  man  who  has  his  eyes  fixed  on  a 
good  for  which  he  is  wilHng  to  subordinate  every- 
thing else  can  maintain  health  without  the  luxuries 
of  the  table.  He  finds  that  food  which  will  serve  him 
best,  and  is  not  tempted  by  that  which  is  useless. 
Alas!  Iiow  few  have  the  knowledge,  the  strength  of 
purpose,  and  the  healthy  body  to  enable  them  to  do 
this.  There  is  abundant  testimony  to  the  clearness 
of  brain  and  strength  of  muscle  gained  by  living 
"  close  to  nature  "  on  the  perfected  products  of  the 
soil.  There  is  also  abundant  testimony  as  to  failure 
in  attempting  to  do  this  by  persons  without  the  will, 
the  knowledge,  or  the  physical  stamina  to  succeed. 

There  will,  therefore,  always  be  two  parties:  the 
one  small  and  select,  the  other  large  and  vociferous; 
the  latter  claiming  that  life  at  less  than  fifty  cents  per 
day  for  food  is  not  worth  living. 

It  is  just  as  impossible  and  just  as  unwise  for  a  per- 
son drunken  with  beef  and  highly  seasoned  food  to 
stop  short  and  try  to  live  on  shredded  wheat  and 
milk,  as  for  the  toper  to  change  his  habits  to  total 
abstinence.  Every  cell  in  the  body  in  either  case 
calls  out  for  its  accustomed  stimulant,  and  the  strug- 
gle is  more  than  sufficient  to  use  up  all  the  energy, 
which  the  body  can  develop. 

As  a  mere  matter  of  scientific  fact  we  must  assert 
that,  given  a  normal  digestion  with  the  ivill  to  do  the 
best  thing  for  one*s  self,  it  is  possible  so  to  select  and 


lOO  THE    CO^^T    OF    FOOD 

prepare  food  that  it  need  not  cost  over  ten  cents  per 
person  per  day. 

To  substantiate  this,  we  offer  the  following  facts: 

First,  the  staple  diet  of  the  world  is  made  up  of 
one  or  more  cereals.  These  furnish  an  average  of 
a  600  calories  per  pound.  Two  pounds  is  ample  for 
the  needs  of  the  workingman  at  a  cost  of  three  to  five 
cents.  Part  of  the  cereal  may  be  replaced  by  meat, 
fruit,  sugar,  milk,  and  some  vegetables,  costing,  in  all, 
six  to  seven  cents;  this  will  lessen  the  quantity  of 
starchy  food  and  increase  fat  and  nitrogen. 

With  ten  kinds  of  cereals,  ten  other  foods,  and 
forty  flavors,  hundreds  of  combinations  are  possible 
if  only  any  inventive  skill  were  exercised  in  the  pre- 
paration and  serving.  In  this  direction  the  women 
of  America  are  singularly  lacking.  The  same  limited 
round  of  roast,  baked,  and  boiled,  is  served  with  the 
same  excess  of  crude  flavor  week  after  week,  so  that 
it  is  no  wonder  that  variety  is  constantly  called  for — 
variety  of  badness  it  is,  too,  as  a  rule. 

If  we  could  only  apply  the  same  sagacity  and  busi- 
ness acumen  to  the  food-supply  of  the  young  en- 
gineer as  we  do  to  his  mechanical  training! 

But,  alas!  we  have  mind  as  well  as  matter  to  deal 
with  and,  worse  than  all  tradition,  the  fetish  of  the 
past.  One  person  likes  caraway-seeds,  another  will 
not  eat  cookies  so  flavored,  and  these  small  likes  and 
dislikes  are  permitted  to  overbalance  health. 


DIKTARIKS    COSTING    TKN    TO    FlFTKExV  *CKM  ^      lOI  ' 

We  take  no  warning  from  other  animals  and  from 
plants,  all  of  which  fail  of  their  best  end  when 
overfed.  Nature  does  not  make  an  exception  in 
favor  of  man.  The  individual  may  thrive  like  a  forced 
plant,  but  not  so  the  race.  In  all  the  discussion  of  the 
infertility  of  the  higher  branches  of  the  human  race, 
how  little  attention  is  paid  to  the  weakening  effect  of 
pampered  appetite  ! 

We  are  always  asked  to  give  a  menu  for  the  use  of 
these  simple  foods.  How  is  it  possible  when  the 
flavor  depends  on  a  score  of  variables — time  and  de- 
gree of  heat  in  the  cooking,  amount  of  water,  salt, 
and  condiment  added,  combinations  made,  when 
acceptability  depends  quite  as  much  on  the  way 
the  prepared  food  is  served,  the  company  in  which  it 
is  eaten,  the  temper  of  the  individual  at  the  time  of 
eating,  as  on  the  food  itself  ? 

The  object  of  this  book  is  not  so  much  to  give  in- 
formation as  to  stimulate  research.  A  more  effectual 
preparation  of  the  food-supply  must  be  secured  by 
original  research. 

Most  of  the  work  put  upon  food  preparation  at 
present  is  against  rather  than  for  health.  "'  Unfor- 
tunately the  practice  of  cookery  does  not  repose 
upon  recognized  principles,  but  on  recipes,  many  of 
which  are  based  upon  flagrant  error."  * 

*  "  The  Spirit  of  Cookery."  p.   156. 


102  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

It  is  possible  that  one  of  the  best  evidences  of  a 
development  of  better  "  taste  "  and  better  ideals  in 
art  will  be  found  in  better  furniture  and  pictures  and 
less  money  spent  in  crude  food.  How  can  we  be 
otherwise  than  materialistic  so  long  as  our  food  is  so 
gross  and  handled  in  so  repulsive  a  manner?  Was 
there  ever  so  barbarous  a  sight  as  the  modern 
kitchen,  with  its  red-hot  range,  its  perspiring  cooks, 
its  slovenly  maids,  its  ill-smelling  cold  storage? 

May  I  ask  each  reader  to  call  up  in  his  eye  the 
picture  which  to  him  is  most  typical  of  that  for  which 
the  word  food  stands?  For  the  city  dweller  it  may 
be  a  medley  of  half-clothed,  dripping  persons,  greasy 
dishes  and  pails  of  refuse,  to  the  presence  of  which 
attention  is  loudly  called  as  one  passes  the  basement 
windows  of  hotel  or  restaurant.  The  most  vivid  im- 
pression left  after  a  half  hour's  passage  along  the 
streets  of  any  down-town  section  will  be  that  of 
burned  fat,  hot,  steam-carried  vapors  of  indescribable 
sorts.  Even  worse  are  the  meat-shops,  the  windows 
displaying  in  all  their  repulsive  nakedness  the  crea- 
tures which  man  kills  for  his  own  use — fish,  flesh, 
and  fowl;  even  barrels  of  potatoes,  beets,  and  cab- 
bages, with  remains  of  their  recent  contact  with  the 
soil,. are  not  much  improvement.  What  wonder  that 
we  try  to  forget  the  crude  materials  in  French  names, 
grotesque  shapes,  or  excessive  garnishing.  What 
wonder  that  to  be  hungry  is  a  rare  sensation,  that  a 


DIETARIES    COSTING    TEN    TO    FIFTEEN    CENTS      I03 

loathing  for  food  is  overcome  only  by  wines  and 
spices  in  good  company!  What  wonder  that  any 
dark  place  is  held  to  be  good  enough  to  perform  the 
rites  of  transformation  for  such  horrors! 

Even  the  fresh,  juicy  fruits  with  their  tempting 
display  of  color  are  paraded  in  line  with  the  clouds 
of  street-dust,  and  stirred  constantly  by  the  ubiqui- 
tous feather  duster. 

In  the  country  the  gross  treatment  of  food  follows 
city  ways,  and  the  universal  pig  evidences  the  waste 
and  failure  to  provide  satisfactory  viands. 

All  indications  point  to  the  low  estimation  in 
which  food  and  its  preparation  is  now  held,  in  con- 
trast to  the  time  when  kings  and  statesmen  were 
prou*d  to  have  dishes  named  for  them.  Is  it,  then, 
a  subject  tO'  be  shunned?  Is  it,  then,  no  matter  for 
concern  what  manner  of  food  is  offered  to  the  com- 
ing race?  Has  it  no  effect  on  the  soul  that  its  outer 
envelope  is  so  vilely  treated?  A  right  point  of  view 
is  essential  to  our  discussion,  and  certain  dogmatic 
statements  may  serve  to  orient  us  at  the  start  in 
order  that  we  may  proceed  on  harmonious  lines. 

Suppose  we  state  it  in  the  form  of  a  creed: 

1.  I  believe  that  ''  man  is  what  he  eats  ";  i.e.,  that 
the  kind  of  food  going  to  make  up  the  physical  body 
reacts  upon  the  nervous  system,  affecting  mind  and 
character. 

2.  I  believe  that  man  is  ''  the  noblest  work  of 


I04  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

God  "  only  when  he  uses  his  body  as  a  means  of  ex- 
pression of  high  ideals,  and  not  as  a  means  of  grati- 
fying momentary  desires. 

3.  I  believe  that  "  he  that  ruleth  his  own  spirit  is 
greater  than  he  that  taketh  a  city  ";  to  control  one's 
appetite  in  view  of  the  aims  in  life  which  one  holds 
up  to  the  inner  vision;  to  so  order  one's  life  that  one 
has  a  fair  chance  of  attaining  one's  ideals  is  man's 
prerogative,  and  differentiates  him  from  the  beast 
of  the  field. 

4.  I  believe  that  man's  efficiency  in  this  world,  if 
not  his  happiness  in  the  next,  is  mainly  due  to  the 
precautions  he  takes  to  use  suitable  food  and  to 
avoid  dangerous  combinations. 

5.  I  believe  that  ''  the  duty  that  Hes  next  "  is  the 
instruction  of  all  the  people  in  food  values  and  the 
inculcation  of  a  respect  for  the  body  and  the  office  of 
food  as  a  means  to  an  end,  and  that  end — the  highest 
duty  of  man. 

6.  I  believe  that  temperance  in  the  use  of  food  is 
even  more  essential  than  in  anything  else  which 
tempts  man's  appetite. 

7.  I  believe  that  good  food  habits  can  be  formed 
in  childhood  which  will  carry  the  man  through  life 
in  as  great  a  degree  of  safety  as  other  good  habits 
early  formed  may  do. 

Self-control,  self-limiting  factors  are  not  suffi- 
ciently taught.     In  the  rage  for  freedom,  for  self-ex- 


DIETARIES   COSTING   TEN   TO   FIP^TEEN    CENTS      105 

pression,  many  are  apt  to  include  Nature's  laws 
among  the  trammels  to  be  thrown  off.  Such  con- 
sider the  unrestricted  choice  of  food  as  freedom. 
The  consequences  of  this  freedom  are  wilfully  laid  to 
some  other  door. 

If  this  kind  of  rashness  killed,  it  would  not  so  much 
matter;  but  with  philanthropic,  sentimental  helps  at 
hand,  life  is  prolonged  to  the  misery  of  others,  if  not 
to  the  individual  suffering.  Appetite  for  liquor  is 
guarded  against;  appetite  for  sweets,  spices,  and  rich 
food  is  passed  by  in  the  nursery  and  in  school  as  of 
no  moment.  The  child  must  eat  something,  and  so 
his  crying  brings  the  coveted  tidbit  of  which  he 
should  never  have  known  the  taste.  A  cultivated 
taste  in  food  is  as  much  or  more  needed  than  a  cul- 
tivated taste  in  art.  Just  as  in  furnishing  a  house  it 
is  not  the  money  spent,  but  the  good  taste  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  whole,  as  well  as  in  the  choice  of 
the  individual  articles,  so  in  food  for  the  table  it  is 
not  the  amount  of  money  spent,  but  the  sort  of  ma- 
terial purchased  and  the  way  it  is  treated  after  it  is 
purchased  which  determines  the  effectiveness  of  the 
expenditure. 

How  shall  we  characterize  that  man  who  with  a 
name  to  win,  a  prize  to  strive  for, — it  may  be  a  for- 
tune or  a  reputation,  it  may  be  laboratory  research  or 
exploration, — deliberately  cripples  himself,  imperils 
his  usefulness  if  not  his  life,  brings  sadness  and  care 


io6 


THE    COST    OF   FOOD 


into  the  lives  of  those  he  loves  most,  yet  allows  him- 
self to  be  allured  by  the  pleasures  of  the  palate,  or 
even  merely  ignores  the  laws  of  health? 


TABLE   IX 

The  Thirteen  Chief  Foods  considered  as  to  their 
Nutritive  and  Economic  Values 


Nuts  (peanuts,  edible  portion). 

Sugar  (granulated) 

Cornrieal  (bolted) 

Wheat  flour  (roller  process) 

Rye  flour 

Rice  

Legumes  (dried) 

Meats  (about) 

Fish  (fresh) 

Potatoes 

Milk 

Bananas 

Fruit  (apples,  grapes,  etc.). 


Is.- 


30 


40 
25 


9.i 


12.9 

"•5 

12.7 

12.4 

13-2 

55 

45 

67.1 

87 

44.5 
60 


25.8 


8.9 

"•3 
7t 
7.8 

22.3 

16 

12 
1.8 
3-3 
•7 


38.6 


2.2 
1 .1 

•9 


24.4 
100 

75.1 
74.6 

78.5 

79 

59-1 


15-3 
5 

13.7 
12.9 


2560 
1857 
1655 
164s 
1630 
1630 
1590 


325 

325 
290 
285 


Wheat  flour  at  2   cents   per 

pound 

furnishes 

3000    calories 

for      3.6 

Cornmeal  at         3      "          '* 

" 

" 

»*            » 

5.4 

Wheat  flour  at    4      "          " 

" 

ti 

((           ii 

7.2 

Rice  at                  5      "          " 

" 

«♦ 

"           »' 

"        9.? 

Potatoes  at          i      "         '* 

" 

" 

"           •* 

9 

Legumes  at         8      "          " 

4* 

•* 

'*           *' 

*'       15 

Milk  at                 3      " 

" 

*' 

"            ti 

*♦       i8 

Potatoes  at          2      *'          ** 

»' 

'* 

it                        41 

"       j8 

Nuts  (kernels)  at  16  cents    '* 

** 

" 

14                      «4 

*'       19 

Cheese  (American  pale)  at  14 

t< 

" 

44 

'*       20 

Fruit  at  2  cents  per  pound 

i( 

44                      4. 

•*       21 

Milk  at  3^  (7  cents  a  qt.) 

«( 

44                      44 

*'       3« 

Beef  (medium  fat)  at  15  cents  (isjC  bone) 

*' 

44                      44. 

*'       47 

Beef  (sirloin)  at  25  cents  per  pound 

** 

44                       44 

"       69 

Eggs  at  25  cents  per  dozen 

«( 

44                      44 

•♦     lis 

It  is  the  boast  of  civilization  that  man  has  con- 
quered the  forces  of  nature,  harnessed  the  lightning, 
etc.,  but  he  has  done  it  by  learning  the  laws  under 


DIETARIES   COSTING    TEN   TO    FIFTEEN   CENTS      I07 

which  these  forces  work  and  adapting  his  machine  to 
those  laws,  not  by  running  counter  to  them.  And 
yet  we  see  an  engineer  who  understands  this  full  well 
violating  every  law  which  Nature  has  laid  down  for 
the  guidance  of  man  to  efficient  manhood.  Be- 
cause.he  is  not  called  upon  to  pay  the  penalty  im- 
mediately, he  professes  to  think  there  is  none. 

So  long  do  folk-lore  and  tradition  persist  after 
science  has  illuminated  the  page. 

To  work  up  a  dietary  in  any  given  case,  begin  with 
the  quantities  costing  ten  cents,  and  substitute  from 
the  tables,  foods  of  equal  physiologic  value  (so  far  as 
is  known)  up  to  the  Hmit  of  money  in  hand.  For 
instance :  ^ 


DIETARY  A 

Cost. 

Cereals  (dry),  i  lb 02 

Meats  at  6  to  8c.  per  lb.,  J^  lb. 04 

Vegetables  at  ic.  per  lb.,  2  lbs .02 

Dried  fruits  at  i6c.  per  lb.,  i  oz 01 

Sugar,  3  oz.,  etc 01 

.10 

DIETARY  B 

Cost. 

Bread  and  other  preferred  cereals,  ^  lb 06 

Meats,  I  lb .25 

Fresh  vegetables,  i  lb 08 

Fresh  fruit,  i  lb 08 

Sugar,  3  oz.,  etc 03 

.50 


I08  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

The  nearer  a  vegetarian  diet  is  approached,  the 
easier  will  it  be  to  furnish  an  inexpensive  table,  but 
the  greater  wisdom  will  be  required  in  choosing  both 
the  food  itself  and  the  manner  of  preparation.  For 
most  of  the  poorer  class,  it  is  easier  and  wiser  for  the 
mother  to  go  out  two  or  three  days  in  the  week  to 
earn  money  with  w^hich  to  supply  meat,  even  if  the 
children  are  left  to  themselves.  This  may  seem  rank 
heresy,  but  to  choose  wisely  means  more  knowledge 
than  the  foreign  mother  possesses,  confronted  as  she 
is  by  dozens  of  foods  of  which  neither  she  nor  her 
grandmother  have  had  that  experience  which  counts 
for  knowledge. 

As  a  matter  of  practice,  it  may  be  interesting  to 
see  what  could  be  furnished  for  ten  cents  by  aid 
of  vegetarian  cook-books  and  native  wit.  Any  cook- 
ing-class may  discover  some  very  appetizing  dishes 
to  bring  down  the  cost  of  a  fifty-cent  menu.  Two 
examples  will  be  sufficient  to  show  what  possibilities 
lie  in  this  direction.  These  were  taken  almost  at  ran- 
dom from  a  considerable  number.  The  only  con- 
trolling factor  was  that  the  dinner  should  include  beef, 
since  that  meat  formed  the  main  dish  in  the  25-cent, 
50-cent  and  $1  dietaries,  on  pages  132,  141,  and  142, 
in  connection  with  which  these  are  to  be  studied. 


DIETARIES   COSTING   TEX   TO    FIFTEEN    CENTS      ICQ 

TABLE  X 

Dietary  No.  1 

for  average  family  of  six,  1$  cents  per  person  per  day 


Lbs. 

Oz. 

Gms. 

Cost. 

Prot. 

Grams 
Fat. 

Carb. 

Gal. 

Breakfast. 
Baking-powder  biscuit 

$0.10 
•  15 
.025 
.02 
.01 
.007 

72.2 
81.5 
.2 
16 
6 

7 

447 
60 

2491 
1123 
333 
650 

Ham  (lean) 

Butter 

I 

"^\ 

453 

Potatoes 

2 

Milk  for  coffee 

i6o 
6o 

1360 

SuG^ar  for  coffee 

246 

3 

I 
I 

Dinner^ 
Beef-shank  stew 

0.312 

0.24 
.01 
.02 
.015 

•03 
.028 
.02 
.01 

175.94 

18s 
8 

4-5 
7-5 

'66'" 

168 

53 
.4 
•5 

24.7 

220 
6 

653 

"69" 

28 
53 

■428" 
"3 
50 

4965 

1251 
325 
138 
477 

2040 
2056 
463 
298 

Potatoes 

Turnips 

Suet  pudding: 
Beef-suet  

i 

I  qt.  flour 

1  cup  molasses 

Soda,  sweet  sauce 

ID 

Supper. 
Milk,  T  pint 

0-373 

0.03^ 
.10 
.04^ 

271 

^5 
61 
4 

314.6 

18 

126.5 

5 

741 

22.7 
319 
216 

7048 

325 
2734 

902 

Bread  (home-madeXand  butter 
Stewed  pears 

Totals: 
Breakfast 

0.175 

.312 

•373 

0.175 

80 

176 

271 

80 

H9'5 

168 

314.6 

149-5 

557.7 

653 
741 

557.7 

4021 

4965 
7048 
4021 

Dinner , 

Supper 

Tea,  coffee,  etc 

0.86 
.04 

537 
89.5 

632.1 
105.3 

195^.7 
325.3 

16034 

• 

Per  person 

0.90 
.I3 

2672 

453.6  grms   =  I  lb. 

I  grm.  proteid  and  carbohydrates  =  4.1  calories. 

I  grm.  fat  =  9.3  calories. 


no 


THE   COST    OF   FOOD 


^TABLE   XI 

Dietary  No.  2 

for  average  family  of  six,  1$  cents  per  person  per  day 


Lbs. 

Oz. 

Gms. 

Cost. 

Grams, 

Cal. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Breakfast. 

English  monkey: 
I  cup  bread-crumbs 

7 

\ 

2 
2 

6 
8 

28 

200 

252 
14 
57 
56 

160 

225 

824 
80 

$0,025 
.02 
.01 
.01 
.02 
.01 
.03 

.10 
.04 
.025 

19 
8 

14 
6 
6 

2.S 

10 

12 
19 

5 
7 

106 
12.6 

I 

225 
426 

\ 

1  cup  milk 

I  tablespoon  butter 

"34 

I  cup  cheese 

1  egg        

Milk  for  coffee 

95-5 
922.5 

2141 

Sugar  for  the  day 

Bread  (home-made),  a  loaves, 
for  toast  and  for  dinner 

78 
2 
18 

8 
70 
16 

Butter 

651 
734 

Doughnuts,  i  rule 

64 
8 
46 
16  1. 
16  1 

:::::: 

Dinner. 
Roast  stuffed  heart 

0.290 

0.20 
.04 
.05 

•03 

•13 

151 

346 

20 

25 

6 

55 

1495 

154 

142 

2 

1.6 

105.5 

940 

'378' 
41 

350 

5677 
2844 

Salt  fat  pork 

Potatoes 

Onions 

Carrots 

420 

Rice  pudding,  hard  sauce.... 

2642 

Supper. 

Baking-powder  griddle-cakes 
without     &%%^    eaten    with 
butter  and  sugar 

0.45 

0.08 
.02 
.025 

446 

46.5 
9 
3 

405 

8s. r 
12 

769 

441 

15 

150 

8922 

2794 

Milk 

12 

208 

Stewed  prunes  with  sugar. . . 

627 

Totals; 
Breakfast 

0.125 

0.290 
•45 

•125 

58.5 

151 

446 
58.5 

97.5 

149-5 
405 
97.5 

606 

940 

769 
606 

3629 

5677 
8922 

Dinner 

SuDoer 

3629 

Tea,  coffee,  etc 

0.865 
.04 

655-5 
109.2 

652 
X08.6 

2315 
386 

18228 

• 

Per  person 

0.905 
.151 

3038 

1 

XII 


TWENTY-FIVE  CENTS  PER  DAY  PER  PERSON 

A  learned  French  judge,  Henrion  de  Penesey,  said  to  three  of 
the  most  distinguished  men  of  science,  the  mathematician  La- 
place, the  chemists  Chaptol  and  Berthollet:  "I  regard  the  dis- 
covery of  a  dish  a  far  more  interesting  event  than  the  discovery 
of  a  star,  for  we  have  already  stars  enough,  but  we  c*an  never 
have  too  many  dishes;  and  I  shall  not  regard  the  sciences  as 
sufficiently  honored  or  adequately  represented  amongst  us  until 
I  see  a  cook  in  the  first  class  of  the  (French)  Institute." 

Twenty-five  cents  per  day  per  person  may  be  con- 
sidered the  cost  of  the  wage-earner's  dietary,  since 
for  an  income  of  $800  to  $1000  a  year  this  means  for 
the  family  of  three  or  four  adults  and  four  children — 
equivalent  to  five  men  as  dietaries  are  reckoned — 
about  $450,  or  45  to  56  per  cent  of  the  total  income. 
Statistics  show  this  to  be  an  average  the  world  over. 
Nearly  every  family  has  one  or  more  unproductive 
members,  and  too  often  some  one  needing  care,  so 
that  the  income  must  go  as  far  as  it  can.  The 
American  wage-earner  is  not  so  far  wrong  in  de- 
manding a  liberal  diet,  but  he  lacks  a  knowledge  of 
cost  of  nutritive  units  which  would  enable  him  to  live 


112  THE   COST    OF   FOOD 

well  on  his  means.  He  also  allows  his  children  to 
acquire  habits  of  indulgence  which  are  not  only  bad 
for  him  but  for  them. 

Several  twenty-five  cent  dietaries  are  given  with 
the  conditions  under  which  they  were  taken,  and 
others  may  be  found,  especially  in  Bulletins  29,  32,  46, 
52,  55,  91,  U.  S.  Experiment  Stations.  A  study  of 
these  will  give  any  one  who  desires  to  look  into  the 
subject  a  working  basis. 

There  are  two  common  ways  of  taking  a  dietary : 
one,  that  of  taking  account  of  stock  in  the  larder  be- 
fore and  after,  and  of  all  purchases  made — the  differ- 
ence and  sum  being  the  food  used ;  the  other,  in  ad- 
dition, requires  estimation  beforehand  of  what,  for 
the  given  experiment,  should  be  used  and  the  check- 
ing up  afterward  of  the  excess  or  deficit.  The  latter 
was  the  method  employed  in  the  following  problem 
given  to  the  class  in  dietaries  at  the  School  of 
Housekeeping,  Boston :  After  a  study  of  the  needs 
of  the  body  in  infancy,  in  school-life,  and  in  active 
work,  and  after  attempts  were  made  to  formulate  a 
ten-cent  dietary  on  scientific  principles  in  order  to 
secure  a  working  basis,  the  class  was  required  to 
"  Make  out  a  week's  bill  of  fare  which  you  yourselves 
ivill  be  zinlling  to  eat,  to  cost  not  over  25  cents  per  per- 
son daily  for  raw  food-material,  and  which  shall 
furnish,  in  the  week,  the  right  proportion  of  the 
various  food-substances." 


TWENTY-FIVE   CENTS   PER    DAY    PER    PERSON    II3 

This  is  not  given  as  a  model  bill  of  fare.  Indeed, 
it  is  not  possible  in  the  present  state  of  vicious  habits 
of  eating  to  give  a  model  menu  for  as  many  as  six- 
teen persons,  especially  women,  and  more  especially 
women  students  and  teachers,  which  would  be  ac- 
ceptable to  them. 

The  provider,  after  six  months  of  experience,  had 
learned  what  dishes  would  be  tolerated  and  what 
would  be  refused,  and  governed  herself  accordingly. 
Only  two  of  the  victims  found  any  of  the  meals 
wholly  unsatisfactory,  and  all  declared  that  they 
"  bought  no  more  candy  than  usual,''  which  was  very 
gratifying  in  view  of  the  much  greater  cost  of  their 
usual  fare. 

Theoretical  dietaries  are  often  at  fault  in  endeavor- 
ing to  furnish  at  one  meal  an  exact  ratio  of  the 
various  food-elements  and  an  exact  fraction  of  the 
total  values.  Circumstances  govern  this  to  a  large 
extent.  For  instance,  one  morning  after  a  hearty 
breakfast,  the  class  under  experiment  went  from  one 
recitation  to  another,  or  with  only  a  laboratory  exer- 
cise all  the  morning.  This  day  a  light  luncheon  of 
easily  digestible  food  was  clearly  called  for  if  any 
work  was  to  be  undertaken  in  the  afternoon. 
Another  day  the  morning  had  been  spent  in  a  field- 
excursion  to  a  spice-mill  in  a  neighboring  city  in  cold, 
windy  weather.  The  luncheon  on  that  day  must 
clearly  furnish  nearly  the  usual  dinner  ration.     Writ- 


1 14  THE  COST   OF    FOOD 

ing  Up  notes  of  a  visit  will  not  demand  as  much 
.brain-energy  as  will  a  study-hour  on  a  new  subject. 

Again,  a  warm,  muggy  day  indicates  a  lighter 
dinner  than  a  clear,  crisp  one,  while  a  cold  morning 
calls  for  more  butter,  cocoa,  or  some  food  rich  in  fat. 

The  menu  should  vary  with  the  season.  Even  for 
an  institution  it  should  be  considerably  changed  four 
times  in  the  year. 

The  following  results  agree  very  nearly  with  the 
estimates,  showing  how  closely  the  student  who 
planned  the  dietary  had  studied  the  daily  routine  and 
how  accurately  the  teachers  knew  the  quantities 
usually  consumed.  The  estimates  were  made  for  a 
family  of  six  and  multiplied  to  suit  the  existing  case.  . 
One  or  more  were  absent  from  some  meals,  so  that 
in  order  to  obtain  from  these  figures  an  estimate  of 
quantity  for  two  persons,  one-seventh  of  the  amounts 
may  be  taken ;  for  two  hearty  men,  one-sixth.  If  for 
the  typical  family  of  the  statistician, — father,  mother, 
and  four  young  children, — two-sevenths  should  give 
the  approximate  amount.  Substitutes  of  equal  food 
value  may,  of  course,  be  used  wherever  preferred. 
Nearly  every  meat  was  consumed  in  larger  quantities 
than  estimated ;  of  rice  and  shredded  wheat  less  was 
used. 

Doubtless  the  absence  of  some  common  dishes  is 
due  to  the  preparation  of  a  "  black  list ''  in  class  a 
few  days  before. 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON    I  1 5 

MENUS  FOR  ONE  WEEK  FOR  $0.25  A  DAY  PER  PERSON 

[Family   of  sixteen — all  women   students;  2d   and  3d   week   in 

April;  Eastern  city;  season  very  backward.] 

Breakfast:  Cream  of  wheat,  baked  beans,  brown 
bread,  coffee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon :  Brown  and  white  bread  sandwiches, 
sHced  oranges,  cake,  cocoa. 

Dinner:  Soup,  saltines,  roast  fowl  (stuffed), 
hominy,  cranberries,  lettuce  salad  with 
French  dressing,  ice-cream,  cake. 

Breakfast:  One-half  shredded-wheat  biscuit,  boiled 
egg,  Graham  muffins,  apple  sauce, 
coffee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon:  Hashed  chicken  on  toast,  fried  hominy, 
cookies,  apricots,  tea. 

Dinner:  Soup  with  rice,  rib-roll  roast,  Irish  pota- 
toes (mashed),  tomatoes,  lemon  jelly 
with  bananas  and  nuts. 

Breakfast:  One-half  orange,  wheat  germ,  creamed 
codfish,  cornmeal  muffins,  coffee, 
cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon:  Vegetable  soup,  omelet,  brown  betty, 
cream. 

Dinner :  Spflit-pea  soup,  veal  roast,  Irish  potatoes, 
creamed  onions,  lettuce  salad,  saltines, 
cottage  pudding,  chocolate  sauce; 

Breakfast:  Germea,  cream  toast,  bacon,  baked 
apples,  coffee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 


ii6 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


Luncheon:  Irish  stew  with  dumpHngs,  fruit  salad, 
cookies,  cocoa. 

Dinner :  Chicken  soup,  roast  leg  of  mutton,  pota- 
toes, beets,  Norwegian  dessert. 

Breakfast :  One-half  orange,  vitos,  hash,  dry  toast, 
coffee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon:  Creamed  potatoes,  sausage,  raised  rolls, 
nut  cake,  prunelles,  tea. 

Dinner:  Soup,  chicken-and-veal  pie,  peas,  orsinge 
salad,  saltines,  cracker  pudding,  cream. 

Breakfast :  One-half  orange,  oatmeal,  creamed  dried 
beef,  corn  cake,  cofifee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon :  Fish  chowder,  rice-and-mutton  croquettes 
with  tomato  sauce,  salted  peanuts, 
dates. 

Dinner:  Tomato  soup,  baked  haddock,  Holland- 
aise  sauce,  mashed  potatoes,  Lima 
beans,  lettuce  salad,  saltines,  suet  pud- 
ding, lemon  sauce. 

Breakfast:  One-half  orange,  pettijohn,  fish  hash, 
date  mufifins,  cofifee,  cocoa,  or  milk. 

Luncheon:  English  monkey  on  toast,  vegetable 
salad,  baking-powder  biscuit,  choco- 
^  late. 

Dinner:  Bean  soup,  Hamburg  steak,  baked  pota- 
toes, carrots  and  peas,  lettuce  salad, 
saltines,  chocolate  pudding  with  hard 
sauce. 


TWENTY-FIVE   CENTS   PER    DAY   PER    PERSON    I  17 


TABLE   XII 

FOODSTUFFS    ACTUALLY    USED    IN    HOUSE   EXPERIMENT 


Amount. 

Cost. 

Gram 

s. 

Cal. 

Food  Materials. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Cereals. 

Oatmeal  at  5  c.  per  pound 

Pettijohn  at  13  c.  per  pound..   .   . 
Wheat  germs  at  12  c.  per  pound,. 

Vilos  at  12  c.  per  pound 

Cr,  of  wheat  at  13  c.  per  pound... 

Shredded    wheat     at    10    c.    per 

package 

9  oz. 
9  oz. 
9  oz. 
9  oz. 
9  oz. 

si  oz. 
9  oz. 
xlb. 

Jib. 

3  dozen  7 

9  lbs.  2  oz. 

z.\  dozen 

fqt. 

ilb. 
lib. 

2  lbs.  \\  oz. 

50Z. 

■3\  OZ. 

IS  lbs.  c,\  oz. 

2  it)s.  10  oz. 
T%  gal. 

27  lbs.  4ioz. 
4  lbs.  lojoz. 

3  lbs.  II  oz. 

31b. 

14J  oz. 

I  lb.  15  oz. 

I4i  lbs. 

9  lbs. 

7  lbs. 

3  lbs.  6  oz. 

4  lbs.  10  oz. 
9  lbs.  I  oz. 

lib. 
7ioz. 
2  lbs. 

$0.0312 
.073' 
.067 
.067 
.073 

■X 

.03 
.045 

41. 1 

21.3 

27 

34-5 

26.7 

3-5 
36.8 
37.5 
18 

17.5 

^:? 

3.6 

5-1 

•4 
4-3 

168.6 

198 

196.8 

192.3 

193.8 

105 
191 
357.8 
179 

1040 
953 
953 
950 
9S» 

447 

Ralston  B.  Food  at  12  c.  per  lb.. 

Hominy  at  3  c.  per  pound 

Rice  at  9  c.  per  pound 

974 
1650 
815 

Fruits. 

Oranges  at  18  c.  per  dozen 

Bananas  at  i2i  c.  per  dozen 

Apples  at  $1.50  per  bushel 

Lemons  at  20  c.  per  dozen 

Cranberries  at  12  c.  per  qt 

Prunelles    at    14    c.    per    pound 
(taken  as  apricots) 

0.52 

0.645 
.0625 
.27 
•25 
.09 

.07 

.105 

.114 

•0343 

.039 

246.5 

58.4 
5.1 
12.4 
10.3 
3 

10.6 

19.6 
3.6 
1.7 

44.9 

9-7 
2.5 
12.4 

7.3 
4.5 

2.2 

4.6 
1.2 

1782.3 

828.6 
91.2 

446.3 
86.8 
75.6 

141. 5 

2X2 
729.$ 
108 
52.7 

8734 

3570 
421 

2007 
407 
32  X 

Apricots  at  14  c.  per  pound 

1  )ates  at  5  c.  per  pound 

3307 

Raisins  at  1 1  c.  per  pound 

D.  currants  at  25  c.  per  pound.. .. 

500 
233 

Sugar. 

Granulated  at  5I  c.  per  pound  . . . 

Powdered  at  5  lbs.  for  83  c 

Lump  at  7  c.  per  pound 

1.6798 

0.8732 
.0206 
•1837 
•0937 

1-1713 

0.6692 
.1127 
.0731 
.0225 
.0725 
.2906 

X40 

69 

2768 

7064.9 

142 
1190 
1129 

12478 

29004 
581 

4882 

5  c.  molasses  at  30  c.  per  gallon. . 

39 

4644 

Flour  and  Crackers, 

Bread  at  $4.80  per  barrel 

Pastry  at  $4.75  per  barrel 

39 

1246.3 
259.5 
1537 
45 
45 
87 



135.8 
23.2 

7.4 
24.8 

104 

9525.9 

9337  8 
1540.3 
1259-9 
242.5 
29T.8 
573 

391  n 

45114 
7613 

Corn  meal  at  2  c.  per  pound 

Graham  meal  at  3  c.  per  pound  . . 
Boston  crackers  at  8  c.  per  pound 
Saltines  at  15  c.  per  pound 

6102 
1708 

3684 

Meats  and  Fish. 
Fowl  at  13  c.  per  pound 

I . 2406 

1.8367 
•45 
.87- 
.3628 
.60x2 
1. 17812 
•15 
•0453 
.24 

1836 

882.6 
391.2 
620.2 
290.8 

354 

652.7 

59-8 

3-9 

117.7 

428 
787 

2X6 

429.4 

195-9 

191.9 

578.3 

280 

176.9 

400.4 

1324s 
9.9 

65474 

10947 

Beef  shank  at  5  c.  per  pound 

Rib  roll  at  12^  c.      "        "       

Ham,  steak  at  xx  c.  per  pound  . . 
Loin  of  veal  at  13  c.  per  pound. . . 
Leg  of  lamb  at  13  c.  "        " 

Bacon  at  15  c.  per  pound 

Salt  pork  at  10  c.  per  pound 

Sausage  at  12  c.      "        *•       

3645 

7455 
30x4 
32x1 
7884 
2849 
1663 

4243 

ii8 


THE   COST    OF    FOOD 


TABLE    Xll— Continued 

FOODSTUFFS    ACTUALLY    USED   IN    HOUSE   EXPERIMENT 


Food  Materials. 


Meats  and  /^/jA— Continued. 


Dried  beef  at  30  c.  per  pound  . 
Haddock  at  6  c.  per  pound.. 
Fresh  cod  at  6  c  '"  '* 

Salt  cod  at  12  c.    "  *' 


Vegetables. 


Potatoes  at  80  c.  per  bushel 

Tomatoes  at  8§  c.  per  can 

Pease  at  15  c.  per  can 

Split  pease  at  6  c.  per  quart 

Lima  beans  (dry)  at  7^  c.  per  lb 

Carrots  at  3  c.  a  pound 

Onions  (10=  i  qt.)  at  60  c.  per  peck 

Beets  at  6  c.  per  quart 

Turnip  ai  2J  c.  per  pouod 

Lettuce  at  3  heads  for  25  c 

Pea-beans  at  7^0.  per  pound 


ij  lbs. 
8      " 

14I  oz. 


.6.9197 


27  lbs.  si  oz 
2  cans 

n\  oz. 

lbs.  4i  oz. 

2  lbs.  z\  oz 

2qt.  =  3ilbs. 

8|  oz. 

15  heads 

iij  oz. 


Butter,  etc. 


Butter  at  25  c.  per  pound... 
Milk  at  6  c.  per  qt.  (i  qt.=2.3  lbs.) 

Cream  at  25  c.  p.qt.(i  qt.=2.i  lbs.) 
Eggs  at  17  c.  per  dozen  (1=2  oz.) 

Nuts. 

Peanuts  (shelled;  at  8  c.  per  lb.. . 
Walnuts        "        at  44  c.  per  lb  .. 


i2lbs.  4J0Z 

'  84  7  lbs.  t 

38iqt.     ^ 

3lh  lbs.  I 

5  dozen 


Cost. 


Grams. 


Prot.    Fat.      Carb. 


•3375 
.48 
.255 
.108 


0.549 
•1733 

•45 

.045 

.0617 

.0084 

.0725 

.12 
.0136 
1.25 
.0617 


4062 


Chocolate  at  38  c.  per  pound. . 
Cocoa  (Bensdorf)  at  58  c.  per  lb.. 
Lard  at  10  c.  per  pound     . .  ... 
Beef-suet  at  5  c.  per  pound  . . . 

Cheese  at  15  c.  per  pound   

Olive  oil  at  $2.50  per  gallon 

Currant  jelly  at  30  c.  per  glass.. . 
I 


Gelatine  at  10  c.  per  box 

Yeast  cake  at  2  c.  each ...  . 

(Heinz)  catsup  at  20  c.  per  bottle 

Vanilla  at  4  oz.  bottle  for  57  c 

Vinegar  at  10  c.  per  quart 

Salt  at  18  c.  for  20  pounds 

Baking-powder  at  $1.90  for  5  lbs.. 


I  lb.  n  oz. 
9  oz. 


6  oz. 
5  OZ- 

61  oz. 

7  oz, 
41b. 
ipt. 
glass 


I  box   2  oz.) 
\\  cake 
I  bottle 

i  cup  (2  oz.) 
2^  ':ups 

2  lbs,  7 J  oz. 
8 J  oz. 


2.8043 

3.0701 
2.31 

•4375 

6.6676 


0.135 
.2475 


0.3825 

0.1425 
.1812 
.0421 
.02IS 
•OS 
•3125 
•15 


.025 

•15 

.285 

.0541 

.0223 

.2018 


136.5 


193-4 
77^9 


35.^ 
7-2 
2.2 
1.6 


3296 


12.3 
4 

3-5 
8.5 
2.7 


6.7 
6 


55^5 
1266 


42.7 
404.8 


4723 
534-7 
316.3 
316.3 


1767 


197. 1 
42 


27.6 
30.6 


9 
43-5 


2268.6 

834 
172.8 
372.3 
131.2 

76.5 
102 
122 

15^9 

85 
198 


3637 


6889 


294 
163.5 


457 

82.5 
40.9 

191 

157 
54.2 

481 


1918.4 
76.9 


Cal. 


186 
33 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY   PER    PERSON    I  IQ 
TABLE    Xll— Continued 

FOODSTUFFS    ACTUALLY    USED    IN    HOUSE    EXPERIMENT 


Amount. 

1 
Cost. 

Grams. 

Cal. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Soda  at  8  c.  per  J  pound 

a  OZ. 
|oz. 

1  OZ, 
l\  OZ. 

h  OZ. 

1  OZ. 

((8fcups) 
1  a  lbs. 

I  OZ. 

$0.01 
.0125 
.0125 
•045  • 

.0187 

9082 

1222 1 

33285 

Mustard  at  40  c.  per  pound 

Red  pepper  and  paprica 

White  and  black  pepper 

Celery-salt  at  9  c.  per  bottle 

Poultry-dressing  at  40  c.  per  lb  . . 

Coffee  at  36  c.  per  pound 

0.9370 
.72 
•OS 
.77 

23-59 

Tea  at  80  c.  per  pound 

Totals  -^-  99 

288653 

Meals  =  297 
297  -*-  3  =  Q9  number  of  days 

$0,238 

92 

123 

336 

29x5 

The  same  quantity  and  quality  of  food  will  cost, 
in  a  small  family,  twenty-eight  to  thirty  cents.  From 
a  paper  written  by  the  author  for  the  Report  of  the 
State  Board  of  Health,  New  Jersey,  1893,  entitled, 
*'  Dietaries  for  Wage-earners  and  Their  Families/' 
the  following  dietaries  and  remarks  are  quoted: 

^*  In  the  accompanying  tables  will  be  found  the 
actual  weights  of  a  week's  food  for  four  families,  se- 
lected from  among  some  fifty,  which  have  been  care- 
fully gathered  in  the  past  year.  These  four  were 
chosen  for  the  several  points  t)hey  illustrate,  as  well 
as  for  the  fact  that  they  each  closely  approximate 
the  estimated  normal,  in  spite  of  the  great  variety. 
The  family  chosen  for  our  type  consists  of  the  father, 


I20 


THE   COST   OF   FOOD 
TABLE  XIII 


No.  1 

Lbs. 
Bought. 

Total 
lbs. 

Cost. 

Total 
Cost. 

Beef  (stew") 

4.71 
4.71 
314 
2.35 
1.57 
4.71 

•345 
.565 
•376 
.188 
.188 
.280 

Beef  (roast) 

Beef  (corned)    ..••.... 

Mutton 

Sausage 

Haddock 

Total 

21.19 

1.942 

Butter 

4.70 

.940 

Total 

4.70 

.940 

EcTffS 

2.50 
18.00 

.520 
.690 

Milk 

Total 

20.50 

1 .210 

Flour 

14-33 

4.70 

.78 

1.57 

.420 
.230 
.050 
.080 

Oatmeal 

Barley , . . . . 

Corn-starch 

Total 

21.38 

.780 

Potatoes 

IQ.23 

2.35 

.550 
.280 

Sugar. 

Total 

21.58 

.830 

Cabbacc  ••••    •••••••• 

2.15 
1.27 
2.20 

•53 
5.59 

.080 
.030 
.040 
.010 
.310 

Onions  ••••    •••h........ 

Turnips 

Carrots .....        

Tomatoes 

Total 

.39 

11.74 

.470 

Tea 

.310 

Total 

•39 

.310 

Total 

101.48 

$6,482 

TWP:NTY-FIVE    cents    per    day    per    person    121 


TABLE   XIII- 

-Continued 

No.  2 

Lbs. Bought 

Total  lbs. 

Cost. 

Total  Cost. 

Beefsteak 

1. 51 
1.92 
1.92 
1.20 
5.76 
2.02 

1.44 
.96 

.336 
.190 
.326 
.096 
.576 
.360 
.144 
.130 

Beef 

Veal 

Sheep's  liver 

Ham 

Chicken 

Codfish 

Mackerel 

Total 

16.73 

2.168 

Bacon 

1.92 
1.20 
1.02 
2.16 

.268 
.120 
.336 
.096 

Lard 

Butter 

Pies 

Total 

6.30 

.820 

Eercs 

1.44 
8.04 

.47 

.288 

.307 
.048 

Milk 

Beans 

Total 

9.95 

.643 

Flour 

5.76 
1.44 

.48 
1.92 
3.84 

/I92 
.048 
.024 
.096 
.307 

Oatmeal 

Barley » » 

Hominy 

Rice 

Total     

13.44 

.667 

W.  Dotatoes 

13.44 
3.36 
1.44 
4.80 

.192 
.048 
.072 
.240 

S.  potatoes 

Bread 

Sugar 

Total ., 

18.24 

.552 

Cabbage 

Turnips 

.84 
3.00 
1.80 

.038 
.048 
.096 

Tomatoes 

5.64 

Total 

.182 

Unknown  sundries 

1. 100 



Total 

1. 100 

Total 

74.10 

$6.12 

122 


THE   COST    OF    FOOD 
TABLE    XlU^Conitnuird 


No.  3 


Beef  (neck  and  shin). 
Porterhouse  steak. . . . 

Round  steak 

Roast  rib 

Mutton  chop 

Ham 

Bologna  sausage 

Round  veal 


Total. 


Lard. . . 
Butter. 
Cream. 
Pies. . . 


Total. 


Eggs... 
Milk... 
Cheese  . 


Total. 

Flour 

Total. 


Potatoes 

Bread 

Buns 

Ginger  cakes.. 

Sirup , 

Sugar  


Total. 


Cabbage 

Green  onions 

Dry  onions 

Asparagus 

Tomatoes  (canned). 

Cucumbers 

Corn  (canned) 

Green  peas 


Total. 


Lbs. 
Bought. 


2.56 
1.28 
.96 
3.20 
.64 
.96 
•32 
.96 


.64 

2.56 

.86 

.64 


2.88 

9.38 

.64 


15.68 


18.00 

8.90 

.80 

.32 

.96 

6.00 


1.60 
.12 
.80 
1.08 
1. 14 
1.28 
8.38 
1.74 


Total 

lbs. 


10.880 


4.700 


12.900 


15.680 


34.980 


8.598 


Cost. 


.128 
.150 
.096 
.320 
.080 
.190 
.030 
.096 


.080 
.820 
.070 
.064 


.310 
.270 
.100 


.380 


.350 
.450 
076 
.032 
.060 
.370 


.089 
.060 
.038 
.096 
.060 
.064 
.076 
.096 


Total 
Cost. 


1.092 


1.034 


.680 


.380 


1.338 


.579 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON    1 23 


TABLE     Xlll— Continued 


No.  ^—Continued 


Lbs. 
Bought. 


Total 
lbs. 


Cost. 


Total 
Cost. 


Apples 

Bananas 

Strawberries. 

Rhubarl} 

Raisins 

Coffee. 

Tea 

Chocolate  . . . 

Catsup 

Ginger 


Total. 
Total . 


2.88 

1.92 

.84 

1.28 

1.28 

.64 

•32 

.16 


9.320 


96.758 


096 
096 

147 
030 
060 
220 
160 

045 
060 
030 


.944 
I6.05 


No.  4 


Round  steak 

Porterhouse  steak. 
Boiled  ham 


Total. 
Bacon. . . . 
Salt  pork  . 

Butter 

Cream.  . . . 


Total... 

Eggs 

Milk 

Beans  (dry). 

Total. . . 

Flour 

Oatmeal 


Total . 
Potatoes. . 
Sugar. . . . 


Total . 

Dry  onions 

Corn  (canned). 

Total 

Bananas 

Coffee 

Tea 


Total. 
Total. 


2.60 

3.90 
1.30 


.72 

.65 

2.60 

2.92 


1.95 

19.06 

1.27 


12.74 
1.30 


18.20 
5.20 


1-95 
1.69 


3.90 
.65 
•32 


7.80 


6.89 


22.28 


14.04 


23.40 


3-64 


82.92 


.260 
.620 
•390 


.130 
.078 
.780 
.270 


.200 
•540 
.060 


.360 
.060 


.360 
.310 


.130 
.190 


.190 
.230 
.190 


1.270 


1.258 


.800 


.420 


.670 


.320 

.610 
•348 


124  THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

mother,  and  four  children  under  ten  years  or  two 
under  thirteen,  the  food  required  being  that  of  three 
grown  persons  for  seven  days,  or  of  one  person  for 
twenty-one  days;  hence,  to  find  the  amount  and  cost 
for  one  person,  the  figures  may  be  divided  by  twenty- 
one. 

Two  of  the  famiHes  Hved  in  Philadelphia  and  two 
in  Chicago.  Two  of  the  dietaries  were  taken  in  the 
winter,  when  fruit  and  vegetables  were  scarce,  and 
two  in  the  spring,  when  they  were  plenty. 

In  No.  4  the  man  was  away  from  dinners,  and  al- 
though due  allowance  was  made  in  the  calculations, 
it  is  probable  that  the  lower  amount  of  meat  in  this 
dietary  was  largely  due  to  this  fact.  Also,  there  were 
bought  in  this  week  no  spices  or  other  condiments. 

The  waste  was  little  or  nothing  in  either  of  these 
families,  the  house-mother  being  intelHgent  and 
painstaking  in  each  case,  and  in  two  cases  advantage 
was  taken  of  the  large  market. 

Besides  Table  XIII,  showing  in  detail  the  amounts 
and  cost  of  each  article,  an  average  has  been  made  up 
and  shown  in  Table  XIV.  This  will  give  a  basis  of 
comparison  for  those  who  have  either  a  less  or  a  more 
expensive  market,  or  who  raise  a  part  of  their  vege- 
tables. 

In  Table  XV  is  given  the  relative  cost  of  the  food- 
substances  in  per  cents.    This  shows  the  wide  varia- 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON    12  5 

tion  possible  in  order  to  obtain  substantially  the  same 
results. 

Table  XVI  shows  the  number  of  pounds  of  food 
purchased  per  day  per  person,  and  the  cost  per  pound 
of  this  food,  as  well  as  the  cost  per  day  per  person. 

No.  3  is  perhaps  the  best  dietary  in  its  variety,  its 
full  food  value,  and  in  the  right  proportion  of  the  es- 
sential elements.  The  meat  is  not  excessive,  al- 
though a  little  higher  than  the  generally  conceded 
proportion. 

As  to  the  cost  of  this  quantity  of  nutritive  sub- 
stances, we  can  only  say  that  the  average  of  these 
families  is  28.6  cents  a  day  a  person,  or  $2  a  week. 
While  it  is  true  that  a  wise  woman  and  a  skilful  cook 
may  make  this  cost  less,  yet  from  the  best  evidence 
at  hand  this  sum  seems  a  very  good  average  of  what 
good  living  may  be  obtained  for  in  most  parts  of  the 
United  States." 

TABLE   XIV 

ESTIMATED     AMOUNT     AND     COST     OF     ONE    WEEK's     PROVISIONS,    AN 
AVERAGE    DEDUCED    FROM    THE    FOREGOING    TABLES 

[The  family  numbering  two  adults  and  four  children  under 
ten  years.] 

Meat  14.15  pounds,  at  II. 4  cents  a  pound $i.6t 

Milk,  7  quarts 13.87        "        "    3.2       '*  '*      44 

Eggs,  2  dozen 2.50        *'        "  13.0       *'  " 33 

Butter 2.71        "        "26.4       "  "      72 

Flour  and  cereals 16.00        "        "    3.5       *'  "       56 

Vegetables  and  fruits 28.70        "        "    1.27     *'  '*       33 

Sugar ..     4.5  "        ''    6  "  "       ..-. 27 

Sundries  unclassified — Tea,  coffee,  pies,  cakes,  etc.,  etc 1 .  73 

$5.99 


126  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 


TABLE   XV 

RELATIVE   COST   OF   THE   DIFFERENT    FOOD-SUBSTANCES 

No.  I,  No.  2.  No.  3.  No.  4. 

Meat 30    percent.        35    percent.        18    percent.       24    percent* 

Fats 15.0      "  13.0       "  17.0       "  24         " 

Eggs  and  milk...     19.0       "  10. o        "  12.0       "  15         " 

IJeans and  cheese     ....  ....  .... 

Total  animal 
substance  ..64  58  47  63 

Grains 12  "  12.0        "  14  "  8.0      " 

Vegetables 15.0      **  8.0       "  15.00    "  12.0     ** 

Fruits. ....  7.00     '*  3.0      " 

Sugar,  tea,  coffee, 

etc 9.0      "  22.0       '*  17  *'  14.0     ** 

Vegetable 
substance..  36  4a  53  37 

Total......  100.00     "  100.00     "  100.00     "  100.00   ** 


TABLE   XVI 

No,  1.  No.  2.  No.  3.  No.  4. 

Pounds  per  day  per  person 4.8             3.5  4,6  3,9 

Cost  (cents)  per  pound 6.4             8.0  6.2  6.4 

Cost  (cents)  per  person  per  day 31.0  29.0  29.0  25.4 

Frot^i  *'  Food  as  a  Factor  in  Student-life  ''  are 
taken  examples  of  six  months'  accurate  records 
(Table  XVII),  and  of  the  daily  accounts  which 
enabled  them  to  be  so  successfully  carried  out 
(Tables  XVIII  and  XIX): 

Several  significant  and  interesting  facts  are  shown 
by  an  examination  of  Table  XX,  a  comparison  of  a 
wholesome  and  sufficient  dietary  of  a  school  in  In- 
diana, where  600  students  were  boarded  at  $1.40  per 
week,  with  that  of  the  University  of  Chicago,  where 
106  students  were  boarded  at  $3.50  per  week.  One 
source  of  advantage  on  the  side  of  the  school  is  that 
a  much  larger  number  of  persons  are  fed  and  certain 
expenses  are  proportionately  reduced.  In  the  second 


TWENTY-FIVE   CENTS    PER    IDAY    PER    PERSON    1 27 


TABLE   XVII 

SUMMARY  OF  FOOD,  MATERIALS,  COST,  AND  COMPOSITION,  AT   KELLY 
HALL,  UNIVERSITY    OF    CHICAGO,  OCT.   I,   1893,    TO    APRIL    I,   1894 


Beef  

Other  fresh  meats 

Ham,  etc 

Milk,  butter,  eggs,  sugar,  etc. . 

Grains 

Potatoes  and  vegetables 

Fresh  fruit.'. 

Dried      "     

Cakes,  etc 


Coffee,  tea 

Sundries  and  unclassified  gro- 
ceries    


Total 
Pounds, 


10260 
9110 
2277 
39179 
14779 
21399 
12082 
2143 
390 


I 19232 


Cost. 


$772  19 
734  79 
349  21 

2015  53 
615  62 
365  06 
3^S  03 
187  19 
100  38 


$5355  00 
147  17 
498  25 


6000  42 


Percent 
Waste. 


Proteld 
net, 


1165 
1027 
367 
1305-8 
1363.3 
281. 1 
107 
35.1 
37.8 


5689.1 


Fat 

net. 


1033 

774 

453.6 

379'>.3 

198.2 

5 

5.7 

1-3 

54.2 


5365.5 


Carb, 

net. 


4997-9 
9374 
2764 
1536 
1139.1 
141-3 

19952.3 


These  figures  divided  by  the  number  of  days  ^wt^  per  person  per  day. 


Pounds 

Cost. 

Proteid, 
Grams. 

Fat, 
Grams. 

Carb., 
Grams. 

Calories 

Food  purchased   

5 

$25 

126 
108 

131 
102 

402 
381 

3383 
2953 

Nutrients  remainingafter  allow- 
ance for  actual  wastes 

place,  very  little  service  beside  student  help  is  fur- 
nished at  the  school,  and  a  large  item  of  expense  is 
thus  removed.  Another  difference  is  seen  in  the  sub- 
stitution at  the  school  of  cheaper  foods,  such  as 
cereals,  vegetables,  sirup,  and  butterine,  for  meat, 
milk,  cream,  fruits,  and  other  more  expensive  foods, 
though  the  actual  amount  of  nourishment  furnished 
was  practically  »the  same  in  both  cases. 

The  ultra-hygienist  will  at  once  exclaim  over  the 
pork  products  allowed  in  some  of  the  quoted  die- 
taries,  but   man  has  not   yet   discovered   any  food 


128 


THE   COST    OF   FOOD 


TABLE   XVIII 

ONE  day's  food,  march  17,  AT  KELLY  HALL,  UNIVERSITY  OF 
CHICAGO,  CALCULATED  TO  SHOW  THE  AMOUNTS  AND  PROPOR- 
TIONS OF  THE  VARIOUS  CONSTITUENTS  AND  THEIR  COMPARISON 
WITH   THE  AVERAGE   FOR    SIX    MONTHS 


Lbs. 


50 
90 

45 

4 
77 

3 
192 

J3 
15 
J5 

6 

9 
50 

7.2 
4t 
26 
14 

657.2 
76 


4-4 


Stew  and  cold  meat • 

White  potatoes 

Sweet  potatoes 

Dried  beef 

Flour  and  grain 

Tapioca 

Milk  

Cream 

Butter 

Sugar 

Prunes 

Oranges,  less  2o)C  waste. .. 
Bananas,    "    50$^      "     ... 

Eggs 

Lamb 

Turkey 

Steak - 


(Less    turkey,   lamb,    and 
bread  left  over) 


Divided  by  130 

Per  person,  nutrients. 


Daily  average   for  the    6 
months,  nutrients 


21 
1.8 
J. 5 

34 

"•5 
1.3 
3-5 
3 


4.85 
12. S 


•4 
7-5 
1.8 

3.7 
12 

83 


3  X  « 


19.1 
26 


70 
83 
4.7 
3 

•5 

96. 5 

65 
It 
19.7 


10. 5 

1.6 

.7 

1.4 

8.9 


€.8 
•4 
.3 


1-3 
•9 
8.2 
5 


48.3 
7-9 


40.4 
.310 

Gms. 

126.5 


•3 
1-4 


7-1 
1.6 


6.2 
1.3 
3-1 


38.68 
2.06 


36 .  62 
.281 

Gms. 

114. 7 


17.2 
II. 7 

53.9 

2-5 

9.0 

•4 

14.5 
4.0 


119. o 

23.6 


95-4 
•733 

Gms. 

332.0 

381 


2946 
2937 


which,  for  the  money,  gives  the  combination  of 
flavor  and  nutritive  value  of  well-cooked  ham,  bacon, 
and  salt  pork.  Like  every  other  food-substance,  its 
source  and  handling  must  be  satisfactory;  but  the 
author  firmly  believes  that  there  is  to-day  more 
danger  from  the  use  of  milk  than  from  the  use  of 
pork  products. 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY   PER   PERSON    I2g 

The  method  of  keeping  daily  accounts  for  the  pur- 
pose of  checking  the  cost  is  shown  in  the  following 
table: 

TABLE   XIX 

SATURDAY,    MARCH    17 

Constants $13  51 

Breakfast : 

I  bunch  bananas $1  25 

2.5  dozen  oranges  (K.) 30 

5  lbs.  farinose 22 

Fried  potatoes 00 

6  dozen  eggs,  scrambled  (B.  and  K.).  i  08 
Beef,  frizzled  (F.) 00 

15  lbs.  potatoes  (F.) 19 

3  04 

Luncheon  : 

Irish  stew  (F.) $000 

Meat  in  brown  gravy  (B.  and  K.). ...         00 

16  loaf  cakes i  28 

60  lbs.  sweet  potatoes,  baked i  00 

Fruit  sauce 00 

2  28 

Dinner : 

9  lbs.  potatoes  for  soup $0  12 

26  **     turkey,  roast  (F.) 2  60 

14**     steak  (B.) 196 

41'*     lamb,  boiled  (K.) 348 

50  *  *     potatoes 63 

3     ^*     boiled  hominy 06 

Tapioca  pudding  (K.  and  B.) 60 

Lemon  sherbet  (F.) 80 

Watercress 25 

10  53 

Total  for  the  day $29  36 

If  the  quantity  used  is  kept  down  to  five  or  six  per 
cent  of  the  total  meat  and  used  chiefly  in  the  late 
winter  and  spring,  when  the  appetite  begins  to  need 
stronger  flavors,  it  will  not  harm  the  majority  of 


130 


THE  COST  OF  FOOD 


TABLE  XX 

COMPARISON     OF     A     SCHOOL     DIETARY     WITH     THE     UNIVERSITY    OF 
CHICAGO    DIETARY 


Beef 

Other  meats 

Fish 

Flour  and  grain ^ , . . 

Potatoes 

Vegetables  (other  than  pota- 
toes)  

Beans 

Milk 

Cream 

Sugar 

Sirup 

Butter 

Butterine 

Dried  fruits 

Fresh       •*       ) 
Canned  **       f 

Sundries 

Tea,  coffee 

Cocoa,  chocolate 

Eggs  and  cheese 

Unclassified  groceries 


Quantity  per  Person 
Day. 


per  Day. 


Lbs. 
Indiana. 


.476 


.119 

.785 
1.085 

.490 
.057 
.666 


.135 
.095 


.119 
.171 

•259 


.026 


•095 


Lbs. 
Chicago. 


.442 
.401 
.052 

•437 
.680 

.219 
.015 
1.295 
.120 
.140 
.017 
.089 
.014 
.090 

508 

022 


006 
043 


Percentage  of  Total 
Cost  of  EachArticle. 


Percent 
Indiana. 


.17 


.067 
.125 
.090 

•05 

.008 

•073 


.056 
.017 


.134 

.057 

.070 


.047 


•036 


Per  cent 
Chicago. 


.128 
.141 
.022 
.103 
•  036 

.024 
.002 
.108 
.041 
.029 
.006 
.103 
.011 
.031 

.052 

.013 
.025 
.013 
.029 

.083 


About  38  per  cent  of  the  Chicago  Dietary  is  high-class  food;  62 
per  cent  of  25  cents  =  15.5  cents,  a  price  for  which  common  food 
materials  may  be  had. 


healthy  persons.     Those  with  deHcate  digestions  will 
avoid  these  products  along  with  many  other  things. 

Butterine  and  oleomargarine  will  also  come  in  for 
a  share  of  condemnation.  It  is  one  of  the  greatest 
legislative  sins  of  this  country  that  the  diet  in  so 
many  State  institutions  is  restricted  and  made  less 


TWENTY-FIVE   CENTS   PER    DAY    PER    PERSON    I3I 

effective  by  the  prohibition  of  the  animal  fats  which 
can  be  suppHed  at  less  cost  and  in  better  condition 
than^the  third-  or  fourth-rate  quahty  of  butter  which 
is  made  to  take  its  place. 

In  the  low-cost  dietaries,  dried  fruits  must  be  made 
to  take  the  place  in  a  measure  of  the  more  expensive 
green  garden  vegetables.  The  former  can  be  fur- 
nished for  so  small  a  cost  that  there  is  no  excuse  for 
their  absence. 

Where  there  is  a  large  family  to  be  fed,  a  much 
better  dietary  can  be  made  if  the  special  preferences 
of  members  are  considered  alternately ;  also  if  unex- 
pected variations  occur.  Curiosity  will  be  stimulated, 
and  curiosity  is  one  of  the  best  appetisers. 

Table  XXI  is  to  be  studied  in  connection  with 
Tables  X,  XI,  XXI,  XXII,  XXIII  and  XXIV.  It 
may  be  of  assistance  to  some  beginners  in  dietary 
studies  to  get  a  bird's-eye  view,  as  it  were,  of  the 
main  facts.  The  following  general  statements  are 
made  for  this  purpose ;  they  are  not  accurate  scientific 
calculations. 

In  order  to  secure  the  necessary  fat  for  the  day, 
i  lb.  of  lard,  very  fat  salt  pork,  suet,  butter,  or  oleo- 
margarine will,  approximately,  serve.  Of  shelled  wal- 
nuts, peanut  butter,  chocolate,  oHve  oil,  bacon  and 
flank  of  mutton,  i  lb.  will  be  required.  While  one 
pound  will  be  needed  of  ordinary  fat  meats,  sausage, 
ham  (if  the  fat  is  eaten),  of  cheese,  and  doughnuts. 


132 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


Of  most  Other  foods  larger  amounts  2,  4,  or  6  lbs., 
will  be  required,  so  that  they  cannot  be  classed  as 
especially  fat  foods. 

TABLE     XXI 

Dietary   No.   3 

for  average  family  of  six,  2$  cents  per  person  per  day 


Cost. 

Grams. 

Cal 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Breakfast. 
Veal  hash 

$0.34 
.07 
.025 
.045 

153 
64 

6 

129 

59 
36 

7 

136 
463 

233 

2385 

2712 

335 

1018 

Corn  l)rcd.cl«  ...• ••••••••• 

Butter 

Coffee,  milk,  and  sugar 

$0,480 

223 

231 

832 

6450 

Dinner, 
Mock  duck 

Beefsteak    '^  lbs 

$0,495 
.04 
.02 
.025 
.115 

$0,695 

203 
6 
8 

9.8 
45 

298 
1.2 

•4 
24 
50 

115 
15 
68 

54 

177 

4080 

97 

315 

494 

1375 

Baked  cauliflower. 

Potatoes 

Bread  and  butter 

Xaoioca  Duddinfi!" 

271.8 

373.6 

429 

6361 

Supper, 
Omelette.  6  ecrcrs 

$0.10 
.10 
.02 
.06 
.015 

48 
72 

4 

42 
39 
24 

5 

29 
447 

"96" 
120 

803 

2491 
223 
470 
492 

Baking-powder  biscuit 

Butter 

Stew^ed  Dears    2  lbs 

Suo^ar 

6) 

$0,295 
$1,470 

124 

618.8 

no 
714.6 

692 
1953 

4479 
17290 

Per  Dcrson .«••• •••••• 

$0,245 

103. 1 

119. 1 

325 

2882 

For  the   day's  ration  of   carbohydrates   no  food 
quantity  less  than  i  lb.  will  serve,  viz.,  sugar,  candy. 


TWENTY-FIVE    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON     1 33 

rice,  li  of  rye,  wheat,  and  corn  flour,  pearled  barley, 
shredded  wheat,  crackers,  dates  and  raisins,  stoned 
prmnes  and  macaroni,  i^  lbs.  of  figs,  bread,  and 
legumes.  While  of  fresh  beans,  bananas,  and  pota- 
toes, 4  to  5  lbs.  will  be  needed.  For  the  day's  ration 
of  nitrogenous  food,  i  lb.  of  peanut  butter  or  of  soya 
bean  will  probably  serve,  also  a  variety  of  dried  bone- 
less codfish,  but  at  least  li  to  li  lbs.  of  round  of  beef 
and  other  meats,  canned  salmon,  cheese,  shelled  nuts, 
and  dried  legumes  will  be  needed  if  one  article  only 
is  made  to  furnish  the  desired  quantity. 

Therefore,  it  will  be  seen  that  mixtures  of  foods 
rich  in  each  constituent  must  be  made  in  order  to 
make  a  suitable  diet:  ^  lb.  butter  at  7  cents,  i^  lbs. 
of  shredded  wheat  at  15  cents,  i^  lbs.  lean  meat  of 
chicken  at  40  cents,  makes  62  cents;  the  cost  of  a 
day's  sustenance. 

A  food  is  hardly  a  cheap  food  if  the  daily  allow- 
ance of  3000  calories  costs  over  15  cents,  or  if  it  can- 
not be  so  combined  that  the  total  cost  is  under  20 
cents;  i  lb.  eggs  at  12  cents,  i^  lbs.  wheat  flour  at 
3  cents  meets  these  conditions. 


XIII 

FORTY  TO  FIFTY  CENTS  PER  DAY  PER  PERSON 

"  Its  character,  however,  was  that  it  was  in  season;  that  it  was 
up  to  its  time;  that  it  was  in  the  spirit  of  the  age;  that  there  was 
no  perruque  in  its  composition,  no  trace  of  the  wisdom  of  our 
ancestors  in  a  single  dish.  Every  meat  presented  its  own  nat- 
ural aroma,  every  vegetable  its  own  shade  of  color." — Lady  Mor- 
gan's sketch  of  a  dinner  by  Careme  at  the  Baron  Rothschild's  villa. 

A  GOOD  way  to  keep  the  run  of  a  family  dietary  is 
to  determine  the  necessary  quantities  of  the  articles  of 
daily  and  weekly  consumption.  These  should  give  f 
the  quantity  needed  at  ^  the  total  cost,  that  is,  at  ten 
to  fifteen  cents ;  then  add  the  variety  in  the  variables 
which  should  not  all  be  ''  hearty  "  the  same  meal;  for 
instance,  peas,  macaroni,  and  custard.  Sweet  des- 
sert is  not  needed  after  beets  and  fried  bananas 
served  as  vegetables. 

To  the  person  making  out  the  bill  of  fare,  the  name 
of  the  food  should  bring  to  mind  the  percentage  com- 
position as  well  as  the  shape,  color,  and  flavor. 

With  an  income  of  $3000  or  $3500  per  year  a 
family  of  five  spending  25  per  -cent  of  it  on  food  and 
having  occasional  guests,  as  all  families  should,  must 
plan  to  spend  only  about  forty  cents  per  day  per  per- 

134 


FORTY    TO    FIFTY    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON     1 35 

son.  This  means  about  $2  per  day  for  the  family,  or 
$730  per  year,  with  $75  margin  for  guests  and  extras. 

Xhis  can  only  be  done,  without  the  family  knowing 
that  they  are  in  any  way  restricted,  by  the  exercise 
of  care  and  thought,  and  by  a  careful  watching  of 
the  markets  by  the  provider.  Food  purchased  in  its 
season,  when  it  is  cheap  because  it  is  abundant,  and  a 
judicious  treatment  of  inexpensive  foods,  with  small 
amounts  only  of  the  dearer  ones,  will  give  a  surpris- 
ingly good  bill  of  fare. 

Every  thoughtful  person  must  have  wondered  why 
it  is  that  a  table  d'hote  dinner  can  be  served  so  cheaply. 
It  is  a  common  experience  to  enjoy  a  well-cooked, 
well-served  six-course  dinner  for  fifty  or  sixty  cents, 
whereas  if  one  orders,  a  la  carte,  even  four  courses, 
it  is  likely  to  be  nearly  three  times  as  much.  One 
reason  for  the  satisfied  feeling  with  which  one  not 
only  leaves  the  table  but  passes  the  evening  is  that 
the  chefs  at  the  restaurants  famous  for  their  table 
d'hote  dinners  know  how  to  blend  flavors  and  con- 
sistency so  as  to  get  the  fullest  result;  each  dish  is 
the  complement  or  the  background  of  the  next. 
Again,  the  condiments  and  sauces  are  of  the  savory 
and  not  of  the  heavy,  irritating  kind,  which  means 
that  the  cooking  is  French  rather  than  American. 
The  quantities  served  are  just  enough  and  not  too 
much;  therefore,  nothing  is  wasted.  No  allowance 
IS  made  for   that   setting   to    one   side    the    barely 


136  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

tasted  dish  which  is  so  frequently  seen,  and  which  has 
been  referred  to  as  so  demoralizing.  Just  this  same 
care  must  be  given  by  the  mistress  or  housekeeper 
to  insure  Hving  on  forty  cents  a  day.  It  needs  only 
a  superficial  acquaintance  with  modern  kitchens  and 
cooks  to  explain  why  this  figure  is  so  seldom  held  to. 

In  order  to  bring  out  the  principles  upon  which  any 
scientific  study  of  costs  must  be  founded,  the  four 
special  dietaries  on  pages  109,  1 10,  132,  141,  are  to  be 
compared,  article  by  article.  The  same  general  plan 
runs  through  the  four.  Beef  products  form  the  piece 
de  resistance  for  the  dinner.  In  all  cases  bread,  butter, 
milk,  sugar,  and  coflfee  are  given,  but  the  quantities 
vary  somewhat,  especially  those  of  bread,  butter,  and 
milk. 

To  show  more  clearly  the  relation  between  quanti- 
ties of  staple  food  materials  furnished  at  different 
prices,  Table  XXII  has  been  prepared. 

It  will  be  seen  at  a  glance  that  the  number  of 
ounces  of  meat  and  eggs  decreases  as  the  price  of  the 
day's  food  decreases.  The  reverse  is  true  in  the  case 
of  cereals  and  potatoes,  with  slight  variations.  For 
7.3  cents,  even  under  the  most  favorable  circum- 
stances of  prices  and  buying,  the  fat  supplied  must 
come  from  the  meat,  and  must  be  all  used.  Bread 
and  potatoes  must  make  up  the  bulk  of  the  food.  It 
is  to  be  noted  that,  of  the  luxuries,  only  cream  and 
fresh  fruit  are  absent,  from  the  15-cent  dietary. 


FORTY    TO   FIFTY   CENTS    PER    DAY   PER    PERSON     1 37 


TABLE   XXII 

FOOD    MATERIAL,    QUANTITY    FURNISHED   AT   VARIOUS    PRICES    PER 
PERSON    PER    DAY 


Foodstuffs 

Cost 

$1. 

50  cts. 

25  cts. 

No.  a. 

7-3  ct»- 

Meat  and  fish 

oz. 

25.3 
4.3 

oz. 

17.6 
3.0 

.5  • 
2.3 
4.0 

oz. 

13.3 

2.66 

OZ. 

12 
.17 
•3 

02. 
10    2 

Eercs •• • 

.01 

Cheese 

Cream 

8.0 
4.0 

Milk 

19 

4.5 

2.8 

Butter,  lard,  etc. ;  pork 

Flour,  cornmeal,  crackers 

3.0 

6.1 

1.5 
5.0 

1.36 

7.7 

2.  I 
6.5 

24.06 

Oatmeal,   hominy,  rice 

Pease,  beans,  dried 

r-5 

I.O 

.4 

2.5 

0.34 
1.34 

Sugar <•• 

4.0 

0.5 

1.7 

1,6 
1.0 

Dried  fruits • 

Fresh  fruit 

12.5 
4.3 

5.0 

5.3 
8.0 

Potatoes 

7.6 

15.64 

Fresh  vegetables «... 

10.6 
0.1 

13.3 

2.0 

5.3 

6.33 
4.76 

Molasses 

The  dietary  belonging  with  this   section  will  be 
found  on  page  141. 


XIV 

SIXTY  CENTS  PER  DAY  PER  PERSON;  INCOME,  $5000 

"The  pleasure  of  eating  is  common  to  us  with  animals;  it 
merely  supposes  hunger  and  that  which  is  necessary  to  satisfy  it. 
The  pleasure  of  the  table  is  peculiar  to  the  human  species;  it 
supposes  antecedent  attention  to  the  preparation  of  the  repast. 
.  .  .  Dishes  have  been  invented  so  attractive  that  they  unceas- 
ingly renew  the  appetite,  and  which  are  at  the  same  time  so  light 
that  they  flatter  the  palate  without  loading  the  stomach." 

— Hayward. 

If  twenty-five  or  thirty  cents  is  enough,  how  is  it 
that  double  the  amount  is  the  rule?  Even  on  an  in- 
come of  $3000  ?  There  are  several  very  evident  rea- 
sons: 

1.  Waste. 

2.  Hothouse,  out-of-season  products. 

3.  Rare  foods,  of  which  there  are  not  enough  to 
go  around. 

4.  Perishable  food. 

5.  Fads,  fashion  in  dishes. 

6.  Flavors,  derived  from  expensive  materials. 
Are  we  any  better  mentally  or  physically  for  these 

flavors   and   stimulants?    'Is   life   more   wholesome, 

more  efficient?    Efficiency  is  the  key  to  the  whole. 

A  large  item  of  expense  in  small  households  is  the 

138 


SIXTY    CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON  I.39 

maid's  table.  If  it  is  difficult  to  keep  down  the  cost 
in  an  institution  where  a  separate  meal  is  prepared, 
how  much  more  difficult  when  the  same  food  serves 
for  both  family  and  maid,  and  when  the  least  curtail- 
ment in  the  kitchen  is  a  signal  for  a  change  in  ser- 
vants! The  cook  does  not  count  the  potatoes,  nor 
measure  the  strawberries,  as  the  pioneer  housekeeper 
did;  neither  does  she  save  the  cold  potato  and  the 
ends  of  the  steak  for  hash,  as  New  England  thrift  de- 
manded. The  moral  effect  of  this  lax  lavishness  upon 
these  inmates  of  our  kitchens  is  a  worse  feature  than 
the  mere  waste  of  money.  What  will  happen  when 
they  marry  and  have  homes  of  their  own  and  have 
only  $800  a  year,  or  less,  for  everything?  Have  we  no 
responsibility  toward  those  we  employ  and  whose 
tastes  and  habits  we  form? 

Even  the  busy  woman,  if  once  she  gave  time  to 
starting  her  accounts  properly  and  if  once  she  had 
conquered  the  A-B-C  of  dietaries,  could  keep  a  fair 
oversight  over  her  expenses  without  going  to  market 
or  examining  the  ice-box. 

If  sixty  cents  a  day  furnishes  all  that  the  most  fas- 
tidious person  can  require,  how  is  it  that  $1  and  even 
$1.50  per  day  is  ever  spent  on  raw  food?  It  can  be 
done  only  by  using  the  most  out-of-season  deli- 
cacies, such  as  strawberries  in  January,  or  rare 
dishes  as  terrapin,  choice  game,  etc.  Of  course, 
condiments  and  wines  can  easily  bring  up  the  ex- 


I40  THE   COST    OF    FOOD 

pense,  as  they  do  at  banquets  where  $io  and  $20  per 
plate  may  be  charged,  but  we  are  speaking  of  food. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  evils  of  the  present  day  that 
everybody  strives  after  the  same  dull  style.  ...  I 
will  observe  that  I  think  the  affluent  would  render 
themselves  and  their  country  an  essential  service  if 
they  were  to  fall  into  the  simple,  refined  style  of  liv- 
ing, discarding  everything  incompatible  with  real  en- 
joyment/'—Walker  in  The  Original^  1835. 

This  hyperaesthetic  sense  as  to  the  furnishing  of 
the  table  is  not  to  be  imitated  by  the  sensible  young 
men  and  young  women  for  whom  this  little  book  is 
written.  They  mean  to  make  themselves  of  use  in 
the  world,  to  be  strong  men  and  women  with  clear 
heads  and  happy  hearts,  and  they  know  that  un- 
natural greenhouse-grown  fruits  and  vegetables  lack 
the  Ralstonite's  **glame,''  the  vivified  essence  of  air 
and  sun  which  does  bring  to  the  body  its  own  spirit 
of  the  universal  power. 

There  is  more  in  life  than  meat.  ''  He  that  ruleth 
his  appetite  is  greater  than  he  that  buildeth  a  great 
market/' 

In  order  to  bring  out  more  clearly  the  relation 
(or,  rather,  the  non-relation)  of  food  value  to  cost, 
the  dietary  illustrative  of  this  section  is  flanked  by 
one  belonging  to  the  preceding  chapter,  and  may 
be  compared  with  the  15-cent  dietary.  No.  2,  p.  no. 


SIXTY   CENTS    PER    DAY    PER    PERSON 


141 


TABLE   XXIII 

D  I  ETA  RY     No.     4 
50   CENTS    PER  PERSON    PER    DAY 


Lbs. 

Oz. 

Gms. 

Cost. 

Grams. 

Cal. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Breakfast, 

127 

$0.02 
.07 
.24 
•»3 

::i 

.025 
.007 
•035 

13 

3« 
60 
48.3 
39 

2 

2.5 
32.0 
47 
"4 

4 
70 

96.6 
3-3 

213 

60 

3 

472 

i^ 

1250 
1070 
651 

Thin  cream 

Eersrs  (0)  

Ham                     

340 

Toast  f I  loaf) 

Butter 

80 

Coffee 

Sugar 

60 

246 
3to 

Crcsitn  (thin)  ■ .  t     ....  -  r .  r  -  - 

2 

15 

2 

Luncheon. 
Chicken,  fowl 

0.657 

0.30 
.028 
•05 

.02 
.03 
.007 

167 

8-5 
17 
16 

19 

284.5 
10 
1.8 

I20.2 

3 

375 

19.3 
"5 
30 

'ioS" 

60 

5144 
650 

"         creamed 

300 
1290 

210 
1118 

Potato  chips 

Asparagus  salad 

French  dressing 

Bread  

200 

544 

Tea 

Sugari  ••! 

246 

I 

Dinner. 
Salmon  (broiled) 

0.815 

0.30 
.085 
.04 
.60 
.02 
.067 
.10 
.08 
.025 

•03 
.032 
.15 

194.5 

108 

10 

38 
182 
.8 

20 

238.0 

101 
'6-' 

200 

•4 

37-3 

332.3 

44 
216 

"*68" 
125 
14.3 

24 

2 

60 

4358 

1368 
3»6 
1088 

Pease  with  butter        

Bread  for  the  whole  meal  . . . 

400 

Beef  (rib  roast). .. . 

3 

2613 

'315 

784 

77 

1118 

Potatoes 

Tomatoes  (stuffed) 

Lettuce  and  cucumbers  .... 

French  dressing 

2.9 
24 

120 

.2 
30 

Saltines 

28 
100 

110 

Cheese 

•\^^ 

Coffee  and  sugar 

246 

Relishes  and  garnishes 

1.529 

385.7 

507.4 

553-3 

8420 

Total 

$3,001 
•  50 

747.2 
124.5 

1029.9 
171.6 

1260.6 
210 

17922 
2987 

For  one  person 

142 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


TABLE   XXIV 

Dietary    No.    5 

bl.oo  per  person  per  day 


Lbs. 

Oz. 

Gms. 

Cost. 

Grams. 

Cal. 

Prot. 

Fat. 

Carb. 

Brtak/ast, 
Strawberries 

3 

$0.40 
.018 
.03 
.15 
.24 
.12 
.12 
.025 
.007 
.075 

12 

8 

83 
t59 
96.6 
6.5 

260 

60 
3.3 

465 

Sugar 

5.6 

159 
127 

230 
505 

28.3 
60 
"5 

"28" 

652 

Cream  of  wheat 

13 
6 

60 
44 
8 

«.5 
61 
47 
24 
72 

472 

Cream 

618 

E^gs  (9)  

18 

3 

I 
2 

836 

French  rolls  (i  dozen) 

Butter  

I 

J  465 
700 

Coflfee 

Sugar 

246 

Thick  cream 

3  ♦ 

30.5 

309 

4 

Luncheon. 
Chicken  (broiled) 

1. 175 

1. 00 
.015 

•  05 

:s? 

•  oa 
•03 
.007 
.10 
.04 

146 

268 

17 

16 



19 

«4S 

20 
24 
80 
1.8 

X20.2 
3 

668.4 

"5 
29.9 

loS" 

5763 
1300 

Butter,  2  tbs.* 

224 

Potato  ch  ips . 

0-5 
2 

1290 

Cold  asparagus  (salad ) 

French  dressing  (i  cup  of  oil) 
Bread     .                 ....        .... 

210 
1118 

200 

453 
250 

544 

Tea                       

2 

Sugar 



60 
66 
124 

246 

I 

260 

Gi  ngerbread  (thin) 

,6 

32 

852 

3 

Dinner, 

X.642 

.10 
.278 
.02 

I.OO 

.02 
.10 

•73 

.025 

■475 

•05 

.025 

.007 

•35 

336 

62.3 

76.4 
19 

4.8 

79  ■ 
2.9 
12 

7 

a8i 

10 
43 
3 

252 

•4 

194 

122 
It 

503 

50.8 
23^3 
X08 

"68* 
17.4 

17-5 
24 
214 
80 

60 

6044 
370 

Halibut,  creamed   

765 

Bread  for  the  whole  dinner  . 

200 

544 

Filet  of  beef,  piquant  sauce. . 
Potatoes                       .... 

3 
I 
0-5 

■^300 

315 

170 

Sweetbread     and    cucumber 
salad  (No.  30),  mayonnaise 

3030 

Saltines       

I 

28 

110 

1956 

Lady-fingers        

4 

4S"7 

Coffee 

2 

246 

Olives,  relishes,garnishes,etc 

Total....    .* 

3.18 
6.00 
1. 00 

498 

980 
163 

24 

635.8 
H61.8 
193.6 

29 

663.0 
1834.4 
305-7 

46 

10263 

Per  person 

22070 
3678 

Less  15  per  cent  of  waste- oil, 
fat,  and  sugar— on   plates, 

552 

139 

164 

259 

3126 

♦  tbs.  =  tablespoonful. 


XV 


THE  DIETARY  COMPUTER 

"The  objects  of  cookery  are  the  preparation  of  food  in  such  a 
manner  that  men  shall  derive  the  greatest  nutritive  and  aesthetical 
advantages  from  its  consumption." — ''  Spirit  of  Cookery,"  p.  3. 

"  Every  bill  of  fare  must  be  the  result  of  the  concurrence  of 
all  kinds  of  practical  considerations,  and  should  never  be  a  theo- 
retical prescription  culled  from  lists." — Thudichum. 

So  much  difficulty  has  been  found  in  the  practical 
use  of  the  figures  giving  composition  and  value  of 
food  that  the  author  has  attempted  to  simplify  one 
part  of  the  work  in  the  following  manner — some- 
what after  a  dissected-map  puzzle: 

1st.  Make  a  list  of  common  food-materials  with  all 
the  facts  needed  on  one  line.  This  list  may  be  in  a 
book  or  on  sheets,  or  each  substance  may  be  on  a 
slip  by  itself,  and  the  slips  kept  in  a  box  with  those 
carrying  the  fractions  next  to  be  described. 

2d.  Go  through  the  common  recipes  in  use,  and 
write  the  facts  about  each  ingredient  on  a  slip  of  the 
same  length  as  the  first.  If  it  is  a  complicated  recipe, 
it  will  be  well  to  have  also  a  slip  with  the  totals  for 
the  dish  (Exhibit  A).  When  a  number  of  these  slips 
have  been  prepared,  proceed  to  plan  a  breakfast, 

143 


144 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


dinner,  and  supper  or  luncheon  which  shall  consist 
of  the  dishes  dissected  and  which  shall  yield  the 
standard  amounts  of  the  different  ingredients.  This 
is  shown  by  placing  these  prepared  slips  on  a  card, 
with  a  rubber  band  on  either  side  to  hold  them,  in 
the  order  of  the  menu  and  adding  up  the  figures.  If 
the  first  combination  does  not  give  the  desired  re- 
sult, rearrange  the  slips  until  one  does.  The  fol- 
lowing example  will  illustrate: 

TABLE  XXV 
Exhibit  A 

DATA   FOR   AND   COMPUTATION  OF  A    DISH 


Lbs. 

Grms. 

Cost. 

Prot., 
Grms. 

Fat, 
Grms. 

Carb., 
Grms. 

Calories 

,,  Veal 

X 

I 

2 
2 

453 

453 

14 

"56" 

$0.30 
.04 

.OI 

.005 

68 

8.5 

136 
17 

40 
0.5 
12 

80 

I 
48 

""68"' 

651 

2.  Potatoes...' 

■i.  Fat                 ...        .... 

308 
III. 6 

4.  Veal  hash  : 

Veal 

1302 

636 

445 

Potatoes 

Fat  

Total  for  6  persons 

I0.355 

153 

129 

136 

2383 

A  family  of  six  is  to  have  a  breakfast  of  cream  of 
wheat  with  cream,  bananas,  boiled  eggs,  and  rolls. 
First  we  need  to  know  the  weight  of  each  ingredient 
to  be  used,  the  ounces  and  pounds  of  the  cereal,  fruit, 
eggs,  and  cream,  and  from  the  values  of  the  pound 
of  each  the  other  figures  may  be  derived.  (See  p. 
27.)  Eight  ounces  is  |  of  a  pound,  but  the  quanti- 
ties are  so  small  that  most  inconvenient  and  confus- 
ing fractions  would  ensue  if  the  results  were  ex- 


For  six  persons. 

Prot., 
Grms. 

Fat, 
Grms. 

Carb., 
Grms. 

The  breakfast  should  yield. . 

.    200 

260 

650 

"     dinner            "           '*     .. 

.    300 

300 

750 

"     supper            "           **     .. 

.    100 

120 

500 

THE    DIETARY    COMPUTER  145 

pressed  in  1-7,  1-16,  1-64  of  an  ounce.  All  scientific 
dietary  work  is  expressed  in  grams.  This  unit  is 
only^  1-28  as  large,  and  the  decimal  system  renders 
the  computation  much  simpler,  as  will  be  seen  (Ex- 
hibit B). 

3d.  A  card  '^  has  been  prepared  with  spaces  into 
which  to  sHde  the  slips  to  hold  them  firmly  in  one's 
lap  while  playing  the  game.  On  this  card  is  printed 
the  estimated  amounts  for  each  meal : 

Cal. 

5500 
7500 
3500 

The  figures  for  breakfast  and  supper  are  inter- 
changeable.    Either  may  be  used  for  luncheon. 

4th.  The  list  and  slips  once  prepared,  a  little  prac- 
tice will  make  any  one  proficient  in  calculating  the 
daily  dietary  according  to  cost  and  also  according 
to  food  values.  A  luncheon  like  the  following  is  not 
uncommon  (Exhibit  C),  and  there  is  no  way  of 
checking  it  up  if  the  food  value  is  unknown.  Again, 
while  most  cooks  object  to  being  asked  to  learn  a 
lot  of  figures,  it  will  be  found  that  the  use  of  these 
simple  rules  will  soon  teach  food  values,  as  well  as 
economy,  and  greater  respect  will  be  developed  for 
some  now  neglected  materials. 

*  Copyrighted  under  the  name  *'  The  Dietary  Computer." 


146 


THE   COST    OF    FOOD 


It  will  be  a  simple  matter  to  evolve  any  given  die- 
tary according  to  a  stated  cost,  once  the  quantities 


TABLE  XXVI 

Exhibit  B 

computation  for  one  meal 


Cream  of  wheat  — 

Cream    , 

5  bananas  

9  eggs 

French  rolls,  1  lb.. 

Butter,  3  oz 

CoflEee,  1  oz  

Su^ar,  2  oz 

Thick  cream,  4  oz. 


For  one  person . , 


Average 

Estimated  need. 


Grms. 


127 

230 


400 
453 
84 


60 
"3 


Cost. 


$0.02 

."5 

.06 

.15 

.12 

.12 

.025 

.007 

.063 


$0.69 


I0.115 


Prot., 
Grms. 


13 
6 

4-3 

60 


138.3 


Fat, 
Grms. 


2-5 

61 
21 
46 
24 
72 


43 
30 


Carb. 
Grms. 


96.6 

6.5 
76 


60 
3-3 


83-7 
83 


Cal. 


47a 
618 
349 
775 
1465 
700 

246 
309 


I  pound  =  453.6  grams, 
i/io  pound  =  45.3        " 
1/16  pound  =  28.3        " 
One  divisor  is  used  for  the  whole  series  of  facts. 


TABLE  XXVII 

Exhibit  C 

luncheon  for  six  persons 


Grms. 

Cost. 

Prot., 
Grms. 

Fat, 
Grms. 

Carb., 
Grms. 

Cal. 

560 
453 
50 
14 
T360 
112.5 

$0.48 
.015 

.04 
.09 
.015 

75.5 

5-5 

160 

12 
1-3 

47-5 

27 

97.6 
in. 5 

1801 

Potatoes  (baked,  ^  waste) 

210 

Oranges 

247 
445 
461 

^^ 

Total 

0.64 

94.1 

173.3 

284.6 

3164 

Divided  by  six  — 

0.106 

I5-7 
20 

28.8 
30 

47.4 
83 

524 
701 

Standard  for  light  luncheon. . 

This  difference  may  seem  small,  but  it  means  in  many  cases  the  difference  be- 
tween an  efficient  day's  work  and  wasted  time,  or  if  the  work  is  forced,  a  strain 
from  which  recovery  may  be  slow. 


THE    DIETARY    COMPUTER  I47 

of  each  substance  needed  for  a  meal  are  determined. 
Right  here  is  the  weak  point  of  all  our  cook-books 
and  all  our  household  accounts.  The  quantity  of  a 
dish  used  by  any  given  family  will  depend  upon  how 
many  other  things  are  served  at  the  same  meal,  upon 
the  age,  taste,  and  appetite  of  the  members  of  the 
family,  but  in  each  case  a  fair  idea  may  be  gained  after 
a  little  experience  if  one  knows  in  the  first  place  how 
much  is  taken. 

The  recipes  from  which  are  calculated  the  dishes 
used  in  the  illustrative  menus  were  culled  from 
many  cook-books  and  were  chosen  in  preference  to 
others  because  these  gave  quantities.  "  A  piece  of 
leg  of  lamb,''  ''  rolled  bread-crumbs,"  ''  a  few  pieces 
of  toast,''  ''  a  little  butter,"  is  not  sufficiently  definite 
as  a  basis  upon  which  to  build  a  scientific  ration. 

Each  combination  must  be  tried,  and,  if  accurate 
records  are  kept,  variations  will  be  easy.  The  or- 
dinary housewife  is  as  afraid  of  figures  as  if  she  had 
never  been  to  school;  pencil  and  paper  should  be 
constant  companions. 

On  page  142  will  be  found  what  I  am  sure  will 
be  considered  a  typical  menu,  worked  out  in  de- 
tail. One  of  the  first  things  to  be  noticed  is  the  num- 
ber and  variety  of  materials  used  and  the  number 
of  combinations  made.  It  would  be  interesting  to 
know  the  time  which  would  be  expended  in  prepar- 
ing and  serving  such  a  day's  food  to  a  family  of  six. 


148  -     THE    COST    OF    FOOD 

Another  noticeable  fact  is  the  amount  of  fat  which  is 
frequently  in  such  form  as  to  escape  consumption. 
The  author  has  more  than  once  called  attention  to 
the  loss  of  fat  in  American  food  as  a  reason  for  the 
apparent  excess  in  the  computations.  In  the  menu 
under  consideration,  three  times  is  fat  served  in  such 
a  manner  that  it  is  safe  to  say  that  one-half  of  it  is 
not  eaten.  The  French  dressing-  and  the  mayonnaise 
dressing  share  the  same  fate  as  the  butter  on  the 
broiled  chicken,  so  that  out  of  the  reckoned  total 
of  1 1 64  grams  of  fat,  at  least  175  grams  ought 
to  be  deducted  as  tributary  to  the  grease-trap. 

This  shows  that  the  author's  bete  noire — the  drawn 
butter,  mayonnaise,  and  white  sauces  so  much  used 
in  modern  cooking — are  responsible  for  the  excess 
of  fat  material,  as  well  as  for  some  of  the  excess  of 
cost.  In  this  menu,  the  butter  used  in  cooking  is 
158  grams  as  against  84  grams  on  bread. 

The  proportion  of  starch  to  sugar  is  817  to  726 
grams,  which  goes  far  toward  substantiating  Prof. 
Patten's  charge  already  referred  to  (page  5) ;  it  also 
indicates  the  tendency  of  modern  diet. 

As  to  the  cost  of  this  menu,  it  will  be  seen  that 
three  things  are  responsible,  each  quite  unnecessary 
and  each  of  rather  low  food  value.  If  the  student 
will  compare  it  with  the  50-cent  dietary  on  page  141, 
he  will  see  that  all  the  reasons  for  high  cost  may  be 
found  in  the  list  on  page  138.   If,  further,  he  will  study 


TlIK    DIKTARV    COMPUTER  I49 

carefully  the  various  dietaries  given,  he  will  see 
that  the  essentials  of  living  are  pretty  much  the 
same  whether  they  cost  $i  or  lo  cents;  that  the 
waste  is  very  much  greater  when  twelve  things  are 
served  for  a  meal  than  when  four  suffice;  that  it  is 
far  more  difficult  to  calculate  exact  amounts  for  so 
many  things,  and  that  small  quantities  cannot  be 
used  to  advantage.  For  instance,  a  quarter  of  a  loaf 
of  bread  left  over  is  used  for  toast  or  bread-crumbs, 
but  two  pieces  of  toast  with  asparagus,  or  two  rolls, 
are  not  available.  A  leg  of  the  broiled  chicken  or 
two  stufifed  tomatoes  are  not  worth  saving,  but  a 
portion  of  rice  or  beans  is  always  usable  in  the  next 
day's  cooking.  It  is  in  the  matter  of  the  garbage- 
pail  that  most  of  our  economy  will  come  when  the 
mistress  herself  attends  to  the  food,  and  when  true 
refinement  of  living  takes  the  place  of  the  present 
barbarous  feeding. 

The  simplicity  of  the  15-cent  dietary  need  not 
mean  monotony.  There  are  as  many  standard 
flavors  at  the  command  of  the  one  cook  as  of  the 
other,  only  the  time  of  using  them  may  be  different, 
as  in  the  case  of  strawberries  and  other  fruits.  The 
family  who  counts  its  pennies  need  not  be  deprived 
of  the  taste  of  these  if  it  chooses  the  right  time. 
Ginger,  pepper,  vanilla,  onion,  and  celery  are  com- 
mon property.  Chicken  and  turkey  at  ten  cents  are 
within  the  reach  of  every  one.      On   our  list  only 


150  THE   COST    OF   FOOD   " 

cream,  tenderloin,  and  sweetbreads  belong  to  the 
really  expensive  class,  as  would  wine,  if  it  were  used 
in  flavoring. 

Surely  life  may  be  made  worth  living  without 
these,  and  it  is  only  when  one  has  to  allow  barely  15 
cents  per  day  per  person  that  they  need  to  be  wholly 
banished.  Much  misconception  will  be  done  away 
with  when  a  study  of  these  matters  becomes  either 
fashionable  or  compulsory. 


XVI 

FOOD  FOR  INCIPIENT  TUBERCULOSIS 

In  response  to  many  requests  the  following  general 
suggestions  are  offered  to  those  seeking  guidance  in  the 
difficult  matter  of  nourishing  food  which  shall  not  be  of 
prohibitive  cost. 

Individualism  in  habit  and  taste  make  impossible 
definite  rules  as  to  food  in  all  cases,  therefore  these 
suggestions  are  to  be  used  as  guides  to  be  modified  by 
experience. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  the  very  fact  of  the  person  finding 
himself  in  danger  from  most  diseases,  and  especially 
from  tuberculosis,  indicates  a  low  state  of  power  in  the 
digestive  and  assimilative  organs  and  fluids  of  the  body. 
The  first  effort  is  to  "build  up,"  that  is,  to  secure  an 
excess  of  energy  with  which  to  combat  the  microbes  of 
disease.  To  do  this  the  food  taken  must  be  such  that 
it  can  be  made  use  of  by  the  body  with  very  little  ex- 
penditure of  its  own  slender  stock,  else  there  will  be  no 
addition.  Such  foods  as  milk,  cream,  butter,  eggs, 
lightly-cooked  meats,  fruit  sugars,  well-cooked  starch — 
in  cereals  and  crusty  bread — are  assimilated  with  very 
little  effort  on  the  part  of  the  body  and  thus  are  "nour- 
ish 


152  THE  COST   OF   FOOD 

ishing"  in  that  they  give  more  than  they  take,  and  so 
"build  up"  a  fund  of  energy.  In  case  the  provider 
may  spend  ninety  cents  to  one  dollar  a  day  for  ^raw  food 
materials  (and  except  in  case  of  starch,  the  less  cooking 
the  better) ,  there  is  no  difficulty. 

The  problem  increases  in  seriousness  as  the  limit  of 
twenty-five  cents  is  reached.  For  less  than  this  it  is  nearly 
impossible  to  provide  easily  assimilated  food  which  shall 
be  sufficiently  appetizing.  The  very  fact  of  the  low 
condition  of  the  body  indicates  a  capricious  appetite 
as  one  cause  of  the  under  nutrition. 

The  person  under  treatment  should  conquer  this 
tendency  as  far  as  possible,  should  realize  that  food 
is  essential  and  not  a  mere  accessory  to  the  day's  ex- 
istence. The  present  requisite  of  living  in  open  air 
makes  the  food  question  somewhat  less  difficult,  but, 
on  the  other  hand,  the  prohibition  of  the  greatest  appe- 
tizer, exercise,  renders  necessary  the  daintiest  serving, 
the  search  for  attractive  combinations  and  the  exercise 
of  strong  will  on  the  part  of  the  patient. 

In  a  town  where  milk  is  four  cents  a  quart  and  eggs 
twelve  cents  a  dozen,  the  patient  will  have  no  difficulty 
in  adding  the  small  amount  of  other  things.  But  with 
safe  milk  at  twelve  cents  a  quart,  cream  at  sixty  cents, 
eggs  at  forty-five  cents  a  dozen,  butter  at  forty-five  cents 
a  pound,  how  shall  the  patient  live? 

The  requirements  of  food  as  purchased  are  about: 
proteid  food  one  pound,  starchy  food  one  half  pound, 


FOOD    FOR   INCIPIENT   TUBERCULOSIS  1 53 

sugar  one  quarter  pound,  fatty  food  one  quarter  to  one 
third  pound.  Three  quarts  of  milk  contains  roughly: 
one  quarter  pound  proteid,  one  quarter  pound  fat,  and 
a  little  more  than  one  quarter  pound  sugar.  One  half 
dozen  large  eggs  may  yield  one  ounce  fat,  and  one  to 
three  tenths  ounce  proteid. 

To  take  the  place  of  milk,  soups  may  be  used,  care 
being  taken  that  the  cheaper  parts  of  meat  are  sound. 
Pillau  or  Pillaff,  a  rice  with  tomato,  is  usually  much 
relished. 

Pea  and  bean  soups  well  made  of  not  too  thick  con- 
sistency and  strained  to  remove  the  cellulose  before  the 
cooking  is  finished  are  also  occasional  dishes.  It  is 
difficult  to  replace  the  yolk  of  the  egg  by  any  combination. 
It  would  seem  that  it  must  be  had  even  if  in  limited 
quantity. 

Salads  of  perfectly  cleaned  vegetables  with  the  plain 
French  dressing  are  appetizers,  besides  furnishing  the 
potassium  salts  needed  and  the  fat  in  the  form  of  oil. 
Only  a  few  drops  of  vinegar  should  be  used.  The 
patient  will  soon  learn  to  like  these  foods. 

Sugar  up  to  four  ounces  a  day  is  as  inexpensive  a 
food  as  may  be  had,  and  taken  in  small  quantities,  usually 
suit.  It  is  a  lesser  tax  upon  the  digestion  than  starchy 
food. 

Well  baked  crusty  bread  and  as  much  butter  as  needed 
to  make  up  the  fat  should  enable  any  one  living  under 
the  right  conditions  to  thrive. 


154  THE  COST  OF  FOOD 

Avoid  fried  foods,  and  soggy  foods,  too  many  kinds  in 
one  day,  and  especially  at  one  meal,  thereby  spreading 
the  attainable  variety  over  the  week. 

If  one  cannot  get  eggs  and  cream,  nourishing  food 
may  be  prepared  with  a  little  time  and  trouble,  if  both 
patient  and  cook  will  co-operate. 

Corn  meal  is  the  grain  of  this  country,  and  it  carries 
a  valuable  fat,  its  starch  is  easily  digested,  and  it  may 
be  made  a  carrier  for  many  other  ingredients.  As  a 
cereal  cooked  with  water  long  enough  to  make  it  smooth 
and  firm  when  cold,  it  is  as  delicious  as  blanc  mange. 
It  may  be  eaten  cold  with  cream  or  hot  with  syrup. 
Occasionally  it  may  be  fried,  but  it  is  better  broiled  under 
the  gas  broiler  or  heated  brown  in  the  oven.  It  may 
have  added  suet  or  dried  fruits  or  raisins  or  cheese,  or 
be  cooked  in  meat  broths.  It  may  be  made  up  into  a 
variety  of  breads,  which  will  call  for  butter,  and  so  giv^ 
the  needed  fat. 

Rice  may  be  used  with  all  the  above  additions,  except 
that  it  does  not  lend  itself  to  breads. 

Macaroni  is  another,  not  very  cheap  food,  but  ex- 
cellent for  variety. 

The  circular  of  the  Illinois  State  Board  of  Health  on 
the  cause  and  prevention  of  consumption  contains  a 
good  discussion  of  diet  in  consumption. 


GLOSSARY  OF  TERMS 

Absorption.  The  process  of  conveying  the  digested,  i.e.,  dis- 
solved and  dissolvable  substances  to  the  tissues.  There  are  two 
routes:  one  quick,  to  the  blood  direct  via  the  liver;  the  other 
slow,  by  the  lacteals  and  lymph  circulation. 

Albuminoids.  Derivatives  from  albumen  or  allied  substances 
are  nitrogenous  foods  of  lesser  value  because  derivatives,  and 
therefore  a  step  lower  in  the  scale.  Gelatine  is  a  familiar  ex- 
ample. These  are  not  found  in  quantity  in  natural  food-products, 
but  occur  in  cooked  foods. 

Anabolism.     See  Assimilation  and  Metabolism. 

Assimilation.  See  Nutrition  for  its  broad  meaning.  '*  In  a  nar- 
rower sense  it  is  limited  to  the  synthetic  conversion  of  dead  mat- 
ter into  living  protoplasm;  that  is,  anabolism  in  opposition  to 
katabolism,  or  disassimilation,  the  clianges  leading  to  the  de- 
struction of  the  complex  substances  of  living  molecules." 

— Howell. 

Calories.  Heat  units  in  foods  used  as  a  measure  of  their  en- 
ergy-giving power.  As  used  in  dietaries,  i  Calorie  is  that  amount 
of  heat  which  will  raise  the  temperature  of  i  kilo  of  water  i° 
C.  I  gram  of  proteid  or  carbohydrate  is  estimated  to  yield  4.1 
Calories;  i  gram  of  fat,  9.3  Calories. 

Carbohydrates.  The  term  used  for  sugars,  starches,  gums,  etc. 
They  contain  no  nitrogen.  The  term  is  a  convenient  one,  since 
it  signifies  that  the  per  cent  of  carbon  alone  is  available  for 
heat-  or  energy-giving,  the  hydrogen  which  the  analysis  shows 
being  only  sufficient  to  combine  with  the  oxygen  present  in  the 
molecule. 

Cellulose.  (C6Hio05)n  forms  the  cell-wall  of  the  plant  as 
collagen  or  connective  tissue  forms  the  cell-wall  of  the  animal. 
Only  young  and  tender  cellulose,  as  in  lettuce,  young  peas  and 
g^een  corn  is  digested  in  the  human  ^omach  as  a  rule.  By 
chemical  means  it  can  be  converted  into  a  "sugar. 

15s 


156 


THE    COST    OF    FOOD 


Collagen.  The  chief  constituent  of  the  fibres  of  connective  tis- 
sue, of  the  organic  matter  of  bone  (ossein),  and  likewise  one 
of  the  constituents  of  cartilage.  On  boiling  with  water  it  forms 
gelatine. 

Cookery  is  '*  the  adaptation  to  the  purpose  of  nutrition  of  nat- 
ural food-products,  which  by  themselves  and  in  their  original 
state  would  be  either  indigestible  and  unwholesome  or  unat- 
tractive and  injurious  to  man." — Thudichum. 

Digestion  in  its  narrower  sense  means  the  solution  of  solids 
and  the  slight  changes  which  some  foods  need  (a  rearrangement 
of  the  molecules  for  the  most  part)  to  render  them  capable 
of  passing  through  the  membranes  into  the  blood-current  by 
which  they  are  carried  to  all  parts  of  the  body.  Digestion  is 
sometimes  used  broadly  to  cover  absorption  and  assimilation. 

Enzymes.  *'  Products  of  living  protoplasm  capable  of  inducing 
changes  in  complex  molecules,  either  favorable  or  unfavorable 
to  further  nutrition." — Green. 

Fats.  In  food  work  includes  all  oils,  as  olive  oil,  corn  oil,  and 
the  oils  in  asparagus,  onions,  etc.,  beside  the  animal  fats,  both 
solid  and  liquid.  Sometimes  the  term  hydrocarbon  is  used  to 
mean  that  in  these  substances,  unlike  the  carbohydrates,  a  por- 
tion of  the  hydrogen  is  available  for  energy  and  heat-giving; 
and  since  a  pound  of  hydrogen  gives  four  times  as  much  heat 
when  burned  with  oxygen  as  does  carbon,  it  is  evident  why  fats 
are  worth  more  in  the  diet. 

Fermentation.  "  The  decomposition  of  complex-organic  ma- 
terials into  substances  of  simpler  composition  by  the  agency  of 
protoplasm  itself  or  of  a  secretion  prepared  by  it." 

— ^J.  Reynolds  Green,  p.  9. 
Acid        =  resulting  in  an  acid  liquid. 
Alkaline  ^=  resulting   in  an   alkaline  liquid. 

Food.  ''  What  we  eat  and  drink  for  the  purpose  of  nourishing 
our  bodies." — Howell,  p.  213. 

Foodstuffs.  "  Alimentary  principles,  as  albuminoids,  pro- 
teids,  fats,  carbohydrates,  mineral  salts,  water,  often  called  nu- 
trients."— Howell. 

Good  Food,  or  not.     The  four  tests: 

*' I.  Chemical:  What  percentage  of  each  nutritive  constituent 
does  the  food  contain^ 

"2.  Physical:  How  much  potential  energy  is  it  capable  of 
yielding? 

"3.  Physiological:  How  does  it  behave  in  the  stomach  and  in- 


GLOSSARY    OF    TERMS  I57 

tcstines?     Is  it  easily  digested,   and   to  what   extent   is  it  ab- 
sorbed? 

"4.  Economic:  Are  the  nutritive  constituents  which  the  food 
contains  obtained  at  a  reasonable  cost?" — Hutchison,  p.  4. 
Hydrocarbons.     See  Fats. 

Indigestible.     "  By  this  term,  as  popularly  and  carelessly  used, 
is  meant  a  food  which  by  remaining  long  in  the  stomach  may 
produce   heaviness,   fullness,    or   even  pain.     By  this  term  the 
physiologist  means  that  substance  which  will  not  be  so  changed 
as  to  be  perfectly  absorbed  into  the  blood." — Hutchison. 
Katabolism.     See  Assimilation  and  Metabolism. 
Metabolism.    The   cycle   including   both  anabolism,   the   syn- 
thetic building  up  of  tissue,  and  katabolism,  the  breaking  down 
of  that  which  has  been  formed.     In  other  words,  the  chemical 
process  of  living. 
Nutrients.     See  Foodstuffs. 

Nutrition.  "  The  power  of  converting  dead  food-material  into 
living  substance." — Howell,  p.  18. 

"  By  this  term  we  designate  the  series  of  changes  through 
which  dead  matter  is  received  into  the  structure  of  living  sub- 
stance. In  its  broadest  sense  it  may  cover  the  processes  of  di- 
gestion, respiration,  absorption,  and  excretion." 

— Howell,  p.  9. 
Proteid.  "  Protein,"  nitrogenous  foodstuff.  This  furnishes 
the  new  material  to  take  the  place  of  the  worn-out  and  used-up 
parts  which  are  the  life.  Therefore  food  must  contain  this  nitro- 
genous material  not  in  the  form  of  the  broken-down  substance, 
as  urea  or  the  mineralized  ammonia,  but  in  such  form  that  it 
can  be  used  to  make  new  protoplasm.  No  one  name  can  defi- 
nitely express  the  great  variety  of  compounds  containing  nitro- 
gen, albumin,  casein,  gluten,  with  their  derivatives. 

Protoplasm.  "  An  arrangement  of  materials  in  a  living  cell  in 
such  a  manner  that  continued  life  is  possible.  A  convenient  ab- 
breviation for  '  mass  of  living  matter.'  It  means  any  part  of  a 
cell  which  shows  the  properties  of  life." — Howell,  p.  17. 

Ptomaines.  Putrefactive  products  of  animal  substance  which 
give  the  reactions  of  vegetable  alkaloids.     See  Toxines. 

Ration  (the  daily).  Often  used  as  equivalent  to  the  daily  die- 
tary. It  meaus  that  which  is  served  out  rather  than  what  is 
selected  by  choice. 

Starch  is  a  general  term  for  a  variety  of  stored  products  of 
vegetable  activity  which   can,  under  the  influence  of  moisture 


158  THE   COST    OF   FOOD 

and  ferments,  yield  sugar  in  a  short  time.  It  is  the  reserve  food 
of  both  plant  and  animal,  dry,  portable,  and  cheap.  Animal 
starch,  the  day's  reserve  food  we  all  carry,  is  called  glycogen. 

Toxines.     Poisonous   proteids  produced   by   bacterial   action. 
All  toxines  are  not  ptomaines,  although  the  latter  are  toxines. 


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1900.     Government, — .     (U.  S.  — Experiment  stations.  Office 

of.     Bulletin,  No.  91.) 
Halliburton,  W.  D.  Chemical  constituents  of  the  body  and  food. 

(In  Schafer,  E.  A.,  ed.     Text-book  of  physiology.     1898.    i; 

1-79.)     Published  by  Macmillan,  $8.00. 
Hart,  Mrs.  A.  M.     Diet  in  sickness  and  in   health.     219  pp.  O, 

Phil..  1897.      Putnam,  $1.50. 
Hogan.  L.  E.     How  to  feed  children.     Ed.  2.   236  pp.  D.     Phil., 

1898.     Lippincott,  $1.00.     (Practical  lessons  in  nur^ng.) 
Holt,  L.  E.     Care   and   feeding  of  children.    ,JEdT2.     104  pp.  S. 

N.  Y.,  1899.     Appleton,  50c. .^^ 

Huntington,  E.  A.     The  dietary.     Pamphlet,  16  pp.     26  Charter 

Oak  place,  Hartford,  Ct. 
Hutchison,  Robert.   Food  and  the  principles  of  dietetics.  566  pp. 

il.  O.     N.  Y.,  1901.     Wood,  $5-oo,  net, 
Jaffa.  M.  E,     Nutrition  investigations  at  the  California  agricul- 
tural experiment  station,  1896-98.     39  pp.  O.     Wash.,  1900. 

Government,    5c.     (U-    S. — Experiment    stations,    Office  of. 

Bulletin,  No.  84.) 
Jordan,  W.    H.     Dietary   studies   at  the  Maine  state  college   in 

1895.     57  pp.  O.     Wash.,  1897.     Government,   5c.     (U.   S. — 

Experiment  stations,  Office  of.      Bulletin,  No.  37.) 
Kellogg,   J.   H.     The    daily    ration.     Pamphlet,   15    pp.     Battle 

Creek,  Mich.,  1899.     Good  Health  Pub.  Co. 
The  new  dietary.     Pamphlet,  35   pp.      Battle  Creek,  Mich., 

Good  Health  Pub.  Co. 
LANGWORTHY,  C.  F.     Eggs  and  their  uses  as    food.     32    pp.    O. 

Wash.,1901.     Government  ;  free.     (U.  S. — Agriculture,  De- 
partment of.     Farmers*  Bulletin,  No.  128.) 
— —  Fish  as  food.     30  pp.  O.    Wash.,   1898.    Government;  free. 

(U.    S. — Agriculture,     Department    of.     Farmers'    Bulletin, 

No.  85.) 
Miles,  E.  H.     Muscle,  brain,  and  diet:  a  plea  for  simpler  foods. 

Ed.  2.     345  pp.  O.     Lond.,  1900.     Sonnenschein,  3,?.  bd, 
Oppenheim,  Nathan.     Care  of  the  child  in  health.     308  pp.  D. 

N.  Y.,  1900.     Macmillan,  $1.25. 


l62  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

Richards,   Mrs.    E.    H.   (Swallow).     Plain   words   about   food. 

176  pp.  D.     Boston,   1899.     Home  Science   Pub.   Co.,  $1.00. 

(Rumford  kitchen  leaflets.) 
Simpson,  Henry.     Choice  ol  food.     O.     Manchester,  Eng.,  1889. 

(Health  lectures,  ser.  3,) 
Stone,  W.  E.     Dietary  studies  at  Purdue   University,  Lafayette, 

Ind.,  in  1895.     28  pp.   O.     Wash.,   1896.     Government,    5c. 

(U.  S. — Experiment  stations,  Office  of.     Bulletin,  No.  32.) 
Thompson,  W.  G.    Practical  dietetics,  with  special  reference  to 

diet  in  disease.    802  pp.  il.  O.   N.  Y.,  1895.  Appleton,   $5.00. 
VOORHEES,  E.  B.  Food  and  nutrition  investigations  in  New  Jersey 

in  1895  and  1896.    40  pp.  O.    Wash.,  1896.    Government.  5c. 

(U.   S. — Experiment  stations,   Office  of.     Bulletin,  No.   35.) 
Wait,  C.  E      Dietary  studies  at  the   University  of  Tennessee  in 

1895.     45  pp.  O.     Wash.,  1896.     Government,  5c.     (U.  S. — 

Experiment  stations.  Office  of.     Bulletin,  No.  29.) 

—  Nutrition  investigations  at  University  of  Tennessee  in  1896 
and  1897.  46  pp.  O.  Wash.,  1898.  Government,  5c.  (U.  S. — 
Experiment  stations,  Office  of.     Bulletin,  No.  53.) 

Wiley,  H.  W.,  and  Others.  Foods  and  food  adulterants.  O. 
Wash.,  1887-98.  Government.  (U.  S. — Chemistry,  Division 
of.     Bulletin,  No.  13.) 

Woods,  C.  D.  Meats  :  composition  and  cooking.  29  pp.  O. 
Wash.,  1896.  Government  ;  free.  (U.  S. — Agriculture,  De- 
partment of.     Farmers'  Bulletin,  No.  34.) 

&  Merrill,   L.    H.     Cereal   breakfast    foods.     Pp.   91-106 

O.     Orono,  Me.,  1899.  (Maine— Agricultural  experiment  sta- 
tion.    Bulletin,  No.  55.) 

—  Nuts  as  food.  Pp.  69-92.  O.  Orono,  Me.,  1899.  (Maine — 
Agricultural  experiment  station.     Bulletin,  No.  54.) 

Report  of  investigations  on  digestibility  and  nutritive  value 

of  bread.     51  pp.  O.    Wash.,  1900.    Government,  5c.     (U.  S. 
— Experiment  stations,  Office  of.     Bulletin,  No.  85.) 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  163 


RECENT  BOOKS  ON  FOOD  AND  NUTRITION 

Physiological  Economy  in  Nutrition.  R.  H.  Chittenden,  Frederick 
A.  Stokes  Co.,  N.  Y. 

The  Nutrition  of  Man.     A.  Stokes  Co.,  N.  Y. ' 

The  Science  of  Nutrition.     Graham  Lusk.     W.  B.  Saunders  Co. 

Practical  Problems  of  Diet  and  Nutrition.  Max  Einhart. 
Wm.  Wood  &  Co. 

The  Effect  of  Different  Methods  of  Cooking  Meat.  U.  S. 
Department  of  Agriculture,  Office  of  Expt.  Stations,  Bulletin 
193,  Gov.  Printing  Office. 

Laboratory  Manual.  Food  and  Nutrition.  Miss  Isabel  Bevier, 
Miss  S.  Usher,  University  of  Illinois. 

Selection  and  Preparation  of  Food.  Miss  Isabel  Bevier,  Whit- 
comb  &  Barrows. 

A  Theory  of  Protein  Metabolism.  Otto  Folin.  Reprinted  from 
the  American  Journal  of  Physiology. 

A  Precise  Method  of  Roasting  Beef.  University  of  Illinois  Bulle- 
tin, Vol.  19. 

Chemistry  of  Flesh.  Emmett  &  Grindley.  The  Journal  of  Bio- 
logical Chemistry,  Vol.  3,  No.  6,  Nov.  1907. 

A  New  Method  for  Indicating  Food  Values.  Reprinted  from 
American  Journal  of  Physiology.     Irving  Fisher,  Yale  University. 

Report  of  Progress  in  Food  and  Nutrition.  Report  of  Lake 
Placid  Conference.     1907. 


INDEX 


PACK 

Air  in  school-room 29,31,  34 

Appetite 5.  6,  36,  78,  98 

Bachelor,  why  he  boards 59 

Bibliography I55"I57 

Bill  of  fare  for  child 26 

for  school 42,43 

••     ••     '*      for  breakfast 95-97 

"     "     •*     for  25-cents 115,116 

Brain-worker,  food  of 50 

Cheap  food 2,  5,  8,   100 

College,  duty  of 49 

Cost  of  food,  factors  in » 7,  8 

(See  Food,  cost  of.) 

Dietary  computer 143-150 

Diet,  dietary 26,  28,  39,  72,  77,  100,   107 

'*     definition  of 90,  91 

Dietaries  of  definite  cost - 98-142 

"       10  to  15-cent 109,   no 

25  cent 117-132 

50  cent » 141 

$100 , 142 

•       tabular  statements,   107,  109,  no,  117-123,  126-128, 

130,  132,  137,  141,  142,  144.  146 

Definitions.     See  Glossary 151-154 

*  Diet,  dietary 90,  91 

Eggs  as  food   22,  23,  25 

Food,  amounts  of. . .  - 19,  20,  39,  69,  87 

cheap 2,  5,  8,  100 

•'  •'     definition  of 13,   14 

165 


l66  INDEX 

PAOB 

Food,  choice  of iii,  3 

"      cost  of,  iii,  iv,  7,  8,  9,  34,  37,  40,  41,  51,  56,  61,  62,  78,  80, 

106,  107,  108,  125,  126 

' '       creed 105,  105 

'  *       electives  in 11 

**       fear  of 41,  48 

*  *       for  incipient  tuberculosis 1 51-1 54 

**       for  the  infant. 15-^7 

**         '*    **     young  child 18-21 

**         *'    **    child  at  school 29-36 

**         **     **     active  youth 37-45 

**         *'     *'    youth  at  college  and  brain-worker 45-51 

**         **      **    traveller 52,53;   54 

"         *•     *'    shopper 57,  58 

**         ''     "    businessman 58 

**       in  boarding-house 59 

**       for  criminals  and  paupers 60-69 

**       for  the  hospital  patient 70-83 

**      for  middle  life  and  old  age 84,  89 

habits  in 104 

**      hygienic 58 

"      indigestible 41,  77 

"      in  relation  to  cost  of  living 59,  62,  91,  98,  iii,   134 

'*      low  estimation  of 103 

"      on  a  journey 53,  54 

**       study  of 13 

•*      taste  in 106 

Food  materials,  analyses  of 15,  16,  22,  27 

"  or  composition  of 64,  106 

*•  therapeutic  value  of 82 

Food-supply,  abundance  of " 1,2,  4 

"  no  substitute  for.  ....• 10 

*'  inspection  of.    ..    67,  68 

Glossary 155 

Hospital,  food  in  .  . . 70-83 

Illinois  State  Board  of  Health  circular  . 154 

Institution,  food  of 60,  67,  69,  70 

*  *  cost  of  food  of  . 69 

**  inspection  of •-••. • ^7 


INDEX  •  167 

PAGE 

Menu  for  child 26,  63,  64-67 

*  *       *  *   school 42 

*  *       *  *   business  man ^ 56 

*  *      no  definite 92,  loi 

**      for  2^  cents 115 

'  *     to  show  computation 146 

Milk  as  food 15,  16,  1 7,  63 

Over-eating,  deaths  from , 85,  86 

Over-nutrition,  dangers  in 4,  5,  54,. 86,  loi 

Pauper,  food  for 60-69 

Potential  citizen,  food  for 60-69 

Recent  books  on  nutrition 163 

School  luncheon 33>  34,  35>  3<^ 

Sugar  as  food - .     18 

Tuberculosis,  food  in 151-154 

Under- nutrition u 33,  49,  62 

University,  duty  of 49 

Valparaiso,  Ind.,  food  at iv 

Vegetables,  use  of 40 

Vegetarian  diet 86,  87 


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1 

00 

*1 

25 

8 

00 

2 

00 

3 

50 

2 

50 

*1 

50 

3 

00 

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Constituents Svo, 

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WESTERMAiER-^Compendium  of  General  Botany.     (Schneider.) Svo,     2  00 

Winslow — Elements  of  Applied  Microscopy 12mo,     1  50 


20 


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